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commodore 4016-n with extreme water damage

8032 now not working!!!

8032 now not working!!!

the 8032 was working fine for about 3h it did beep when I got about 3 carecters from the end but now its not working, cruped display, and wont run any commands, and I was having fun with test programs and saving them to tape.

the first pic is after I switched it off and on, and the second pic is after I pressed enter a few times, it will now not execute any commands, bad rom?

the 8032 is riddled with dry solder joints that spit the solder out when you try to resolder them, any one know what makes this happen?

bank switching the roms looks easy
 

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commodore IEEE488 bus to modem computer?

commodore IEEE488 bus to modem computer?

dave_m said:
Rory,
I think others have mentioned that the Commodore PET IEEE bus is quite restricted and non standard. It may not want to 'talk' with the USB adapter. In most cases the IEEE 488 is connected between a controller (computer) and instruments (test equipment or peripherals). In your case you may have the condition where both devices (PET and PC) want to be the controller (not sure about the capability of your USB adapter). At a minimum you may have to write some custom driver software for the PC side.

I have seen an application where the PET was programmed in assembly language to be a more robust IEEE 488 controller and had many complex instruments hooked up to it. It was used to setup the instruments and acquire test results.
Click to expand...

I have got a book on on the commodore IEE488 bus and the commodore can be switched from controller to talker/listener, and commodore controllers can share a bus? I know when I have all the hardware working and the extras installed I will have a mammoth task programing it all to work together, the usb IEE488 adapter was the cheapest I could find, I will not work on the modern part till I have the old commodores up and running well, I would like some info on the PET programmed in assembly language to be a more robust IEEE 488 controller
 
rorypoole said:
I have got a book on on the commodore IEE488 bus and the commodore can be switched from controller to talker/listener, and commodore controllers can share a bus?
Click to expand...
Controller and talker/listener are not quite synonymous; there can only be one controller at any given time (usually a talker and a listener) although you can have many talkers/listeners.

Two PETs can indeed share the bus but not to talk to each other (at least not without some serious M/L programming), and certainly not at the same time; how would you address a PET? Since it's a controller it has no mechanism to respond to another controller or a device number; as a matter of fact it does not even recognize a service request (SRQ) without custom programming.

You certainly do have some ambitious plans...
 
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maybe my plans are too ambitious, I got the 8032 to help me fix the 4016 but its not going that well, and now I have to get one of my XTs or 286s going to test the roms in both, and I still cant find my books on testing and fixing late 70s 80s computers down to IC level! I now have some books on the commodore cbm so I need to do some reading, I could really do with a petvet, is the guy on holiday?

I have spent too much on parts for this project to stop now
 
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rorypoole said:
the first pic is after I switched it off and on, and the second pic is after I pressed enter a few times, it will now not execute any commands, bad rom?
Click to expand...

It still looks like you may have a problem with the two odd video RAM chips.

the 8032 is riddled with dry solder joints that spit the solder out when you try to resolder them, any one know what makes this happen?
Click to expand...

Not following you; is it a problem of excess rosin?

Hang it there, the problem with the 8032 looks to be minor.
 
Well, I think we're all following you with interest and rooting for ya; certainly one of the more interesting and challenging PET projects, even without the hi-res graphics, IEEE networking and integrated ATX board.

Swapping video RAM chips is a good idea, but I kinda think it's elsewhere... hope you prove me wrong ;-)
 
8032 problems

8032 problems

I sorted the display the first time by swaping out the video RAM chips and waching the display, I dont realy like switching the old crt on and off so much, but even before I fixed it I could run basic BASIC programs, but now the display is realy bad and it wont run any thing not even print "a", so I dont think its a video ram problem, I do have some spares video ram chips as the old ones take 1w each and get HOT!, and the problem with the solding is loads of he solder joints dont have enough solder in them, and I heat it and try to add more solder and it spites it out!! I have been solding since I was 11 and have never had this problem, so what remanes in the hole is only solder foam!!!
 
rorypoole said:
I sorted the display the first time by swaping out the video RAM chips and waching the display, I dont realy like switching the old crt on and off so much, but even before I fixed it I could run basic BASIC programs, but now the display is realy bad and it wont run any thing not even print "a", so I dont think its a video ram problem, I do have some spares video ram chips as the old ones take 1w each and get HOT!, and the problem with the solding is loads of he solder joints dont have enough solder in them, and I heat it and try to add more solder and it spites it out!! I have been solding since I was 11 and have never had this problem, so what remanes in the hole is only solder foam!!!
Click to expand...

The spitting solder I have encountered many times on old boards (may be down to corrosion). The best way is to clean
the area with isopropyl alcohol (I use meths when I run out) then to use a solder sucker to remove the older solder then
re clean the area with isopropyl alcohol again and then re solder. This has always worked for me!

P.s. I used leaded solder
 
I have been using nasty lead-free solder, it worked ok on the 4016, its getting harder and more expensive to get lead/tin solder, I will try to fined some lead/tin solder and try some isopropyl

Pet Rescue said:
The spitting solder I have encountered many times on old boards (may be down to corrosion). The best way is to clean
the area with isopropyl alcohol (I use meths when I run out) then to use a solder sucker to remove the older solder then
re clean the area with isopropyl alcohol again and then re solder. This has always worked for me!

P.s. I used leaded solder
Click to expand...
 
dodgy 8032 mother board

dodgy 8032 mother board

the problem with the 8032 mother boards soldering is from when when it was made 32 years ago, age and me taking it in and out the case, and swapping chips has made worse,

the water damaged 4016 mother board on the other hand is in surprisingly good condition but seems to have a lot of dead ICs
 
rorypoole said:
the problem with the 8032 mother boards soldering is from when when it was made 32 years ago, age and me taking it in and out the case, and swapping chips has made worse,

the water damaged 4016 mother board on the other hand is in surprisingly good condition but seems to have a lot of dead ICs
Click to expand...

I have had quite a few boards with poor looking joints (holes in the solder and small amounts of solder) but have yet to
have one that's caused a failure. On the other hand good looking sockets have been poor and swapping chips in and out
definiteley doesn't help matters but is necessary to isolate faults. Saying that though the sockets in my 4008 feel really
sloppy but have always worked when using it to test suspect chips.
 
rorypoole said:
I have been using nasty lead-free solder, it worked ok on the 4016, its getting harder and more expensive to get lead/tin solder, I will try to fined some lead/tin solder and try some isopropyl
Click to expand...
Yeah, it's not usually recommended to mix leaded and lead-free.
 
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found my books

found my books

I have found my books on commputer repare down to chip level but I am away today, so this projece will be on hold till I get back, thanks for all your help
 
I had a look at my old postes, and the ics I have are sadly 74ls241, I have taken my my book on the commodore IEEE488 bus with me
 
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I have not given up on getting my 2 commodore cbm computers fully working, but I have been very busy. I have a lot the learn to be able to find and fix all the fults, it dose not help that both board have few of the ICs are in sockets, I will have to fix my osilscope and learn how to use it.
I now have tape drives for both and a commodore printer, and a ieee488 hard drive made by HP with manual! I couldent help my self with the printer!
I feel a bit lost when reading the old books on fixing ttl computers, its more complex than I thort,

One of the commodors has a deep scrach on the frunt of the crt, is it safe to use, if not can an old collore 12 inch tv crt be riged to work?
 
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