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How can i get my VT420 and a modern PC to talk to each other?

My VT420s monitor is amber, the text seems to have a slight blur to it, like its not perfectly sharp. Is that normal or is there some kind of adjustment that needs to be made? or possibly capacitor replacements? It seems like most monochrome monitors had sharper text, but I cant really remember, its been a while since i've used any other monochrome monitor..
 
AlecRob said:
My VT420s monitor is amber, the text seems to have a slight blur to it, like its not perfectly sharp. Is that normal or is there some kind of adjustment that needs to be made? or possibly capacitor replacements? It seems like most monochrome monitors had sharper text, but I cant really remember, its been a while since i've used any other monochrome monitor..
Click to expand...
There's usually at least one focus control, sometimes on the board, sometimes on the flyback transformer; you should be able to see the individual dots if you look closely.
 
MikeS said:
There's usually at least one focus control, sometimes on the board, sometimes on the flyback transformer; you should be able to see the individual dots if you look closely.
Click to expand...

I found the focus control, but characters always still seem to be more blurry close to the edge of the screen, especially in the center area. Is there a solution for that or is that just the nature of the screen itself?
 
Is it the blue "static focus" control on the side of the board opposite the power connector ?
Did you try adjusting it using the "EEE" pattern ?
patscc
 
patscc said:
Is it the blue "static focus" control on the side of the board opposite the power connector ?
Did you try adjusting it using the "EEE" pattern ?
patscc
Click to expand...

It is opposite of the power connector, I dont remember what color it was, i just adjusted the one it said to adjust in the VT420 service manual. but what is this "EEE pattern" you speak of?
 
As soon as i get a free day i'll get it all set up. I've been just piled up with work lately! :/

Does anybody know of some cool CLI based ubuntu apps i could use with this?
 
Here are some of the command line programs that I use:
elinks - text based browser
gnome-gnuchess - command line chess
epseak, festival - speech synthesizers (Probably won't work with the actual terminal, but I don't know).
nano - text editor
Those are just a few that I know of, but there are probably much more in the Ubuntu Software Center.
 
Old Computers said:
Here are some of the command line programs that I use:
elinks - text based browser
gnome-gnuchess - command line chess
epseak, festival - speech synthesizers (Probably won't work with the actual terminal, but I don't know).
nano - text editor
Those are just a few that I know of, but there are probably much more in the Ubuntu Software Center.
Click to expand...

Does GNU Screen work on an actual terminal?
 
AlecRob said:
Does GNU Screen work on an actual terminal?
Click to expand...
Yes, should work fine. It doesn't really know you're on a serial terminal, it operates on a pseudo tty even if you're on a real tty. Besides, GNU Screen was designed back when most terminals were serial anyway.

-Tor
 
I've been trying to adjust the monitor like it says in the service manual, and its really quite a pain in the ass! Does anybody have any tips? I've never actually adjusted a CRT until now so maybe i'm just inexperienced.
 
It is a pain in the ass if it's your first time. Hopefully it's not too late for this, but mark your starting positions with a grease pencil or something so you can at least fall back to something that works.
Here's a quote from a TV repair FAQ, which won't help you, but at lest make you feel better by confirming that it is indeed a pain in the a**.
Code: 
In the good old days when TVs were TVs (and not just a picture tube with a little circuit board attached) there were literally drawers full of knobs for setting convergence. One could spend hours and still end up with a less than satisfactory picture. As the technology progressed, the number of electronic adjustments went down drastically so that today there are very few if any. 

 Unless you want a lot of frustration, I would recommend not messing with convergence. You could end up a lot worse. I have no idea what is used for convergence on your set but convergence adjustments are never quite independent of one another. You could find an adjustment that fixes the problem you think you have only to discover some other area of the screen is totally screwed. In addition, there are adjustments for geometry and purity and maybe others that you may accidentally move without even knowing it until you have buttoned up the set. 

 Warning: Accurately mark the original positions - sometimes you will change something that will not have an obvious effect but will be noticeable later on. So it is extremely important to be able to get back to where you started. If only red/green vertical lines are offset, then it is likely that only a single ring needs to be moved - and by just a hair. But, you may accidentally move something else! 

 If you really cannot live with it, make sure you mark everything very carefully so you can get back to your current state. A service manual is essential! 

 Convergence is set using a white crosshatch or dot test pattern. If you do not have a test pattern generator, any static scene (from a camcorder or previously recorded tape, for example) with a lot of fine detail will suffice. Turn the color control all the way down so you have a B/W picture. 

 Static convergence sets the beams to be coincident in the exact center of the screen. This is done using a set of ring magnets behind the purity magnets on the CRT neck. 

 From the Sams' for the RCA CTC111C: "adjust the center set of magnets to converge blue to green at the center of the screen. Adjust the rear set of magnets to converge red to green at the center of the screen." Your set may have a slightly different procedure. 

 Dynamic convergence adjusts for coincidence at the edges and corners. 

 On old tube, hybrid, and early solid state TVs, dynamic convergence was accomplished with electronic adjustments of which there may have been a dozen or more that were not independent. With modern sets, all convergence is done with magnet rings on the neck of the CRT, magnets glued to the CRT, and by tilting the deflection yoke. The clamp in conjunction with rubber wedges or set screws assures that the yoke remains in position. 

 From the Sams' for the RCA CTC111C: "Loosen the screws at the 6 o'clock and 10 o'clock positions to permit the yoke to be tilted vertically. Rock yoke up and down to converge the right and left sides of the screen. Tighten screw at 6 o'clock and loosen screw at 3 o'clock to permit the yoke to be tilted horizontally. Rock yoke from side to side to converge the top and bottom of the screen. Tighten screws at 3 o'clock and 10 o'clock." 

 Many sets simply use the main clamp which locks the yoke to the neck of the CRT in conjunction with rubber wedges between the yoke and the funnel of the CRT to stabilize the yoke position position. 

 Refer to your service manual. (Is this beginning to sound repetitious?)

patscc
 
I didn't mark the positions, but i did get it to a position that is still usable. The main thing that is giving me the most trouble is the horizontal width setting.. the picture seems a little too narrow and its very difficult to get to the right size for some reason.
 
I assume you're trying to adjust the coil. I don't know if the ferrite slug in it uses a hex key, or a flat blade, or something else entirely, but just in case you're using a metal tool to adjust it, dont. Use plastic or wood instead.
patscc
 
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