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How to bring back original color of plastic panel on old PCs
- Thread starter phinix
- Start date
GiGaBiTe
Veteran Member
For peroxide to work, you need a higher concentration of it, being between 3-12%. It's somewhat annoying to find in these concentrations, which usually means you'll have to find some product that has it in the ingredients.
It will restore the color of the plastic if done correctly, but the better method would be to use retrobrite.
It will restore the color of the plastic if done correctly, but the better method would be to use retrobrite.
kyodai
Experienced Member
It depends on the type of plastic and the nature of the coloring.
I have had great success in using simple gasoline (Like your car uses) in cleaning up yellowing, especially if the yellowing is from cigarette smoke and grease.
So my advise would be to pick a small corner of the device that is hopefully on the inside or a place that is not directly visible and from there start trying out various methods, so in case the plastic is sensible to an agent you use the damage will not be too bad. So here's my list of stuff to try:
- Water. Sounds stupid, but all dirt that can be dissolved in water can be cleared a bit, so that is a great starter. Be careful of stickers, labels and such. Screw holes, metal parts and such are prone to keep water in them so good drying is required to prevent rusting.
- Soap. Also sounds stupid but water and soap can do magic and clear up a film of grease and dirt that might be in the way for tougher measures, so usually a must-try.
- Gasoline. Nearly all plastics can be cleaned with gasoline, but a few oddball plastics and foams can be dissolved in gasoline, so best test out on a spot that is not visible from the outside or a spot on the bottom of the case/device. That stuff usually does wonders.
- Rubbing alcohol. Same as gasoline from the usage (test out carefully first), but some dirt is easier to clean with alcohol, some is easier to clean with gasoline - so trying both might be worth it.
- Plastic polish. A last resort and only suitable for perfectly smooth surfaces as you effectively grind off the top layer, do NOT use on any textures surface or it will end up smooth. Usually sold as "Displex" cell phone display polish. Got a bit out of fashion since most phones use rather a glass screen instead of plastic these days.
- H2O2. Can do wonders, especially if combined with UV light. there are loads of tutorials on youtube, so i wont go into detail. Loads of work and can be a bit expensive, but usually yields awesome results for stuff that could not be whitened with the other methods above.
- Airbrush. Kinda cheating and not an option if "everything has to be 100% original", but you have to admit that airbrush painted cases can look pretty neat if you do it right. Plus you can pick the color of your choice. If it's not for collectible reasons but for personal decorative uses then maybe an option.
I have had great success in using simple gasoline (Like your car uses) in cleaning up yellowing, especially if the yellowing is from cigarette smoke and grease.
So my advise would be to pick a small corner of the device that is hopefully on the inside or a place that is not directly visible and from there start trying out various methods, so in case the plastic is sensible to an agent you use the damage will not be too bad. So here's my list of stuff to try:
- Water. Sounds stupid, but all dirt that can be dissolved in water can be cleared a bit, so that is a great starter. Be careful of stickers, labels and such. Screw holes, metal parts and such are prone to keep water in them so good drying is required to prevent rusting.
- Soap. Also sounds stupid but water and soap can do magic and clear up a film of grease and dirt that might be in the way for tougher measures, so usually a must-try.
- Gasoline. Nearly all plastics can be cleaned with gasoline, but a few oddball plastics and foams can be dissolved in gasoline, so best test out on a spot that is not visible from the outside or a spot on the bottom of the case/device. That stuff usually does wonders.
- Rubbing alcohol. Same as gasoline from the usage (test out carefully first), but some dirt is easier to clean with alcohol, some is easier to clean with gasoline - so trying both might be worth it.
- Plastic polish. A last resort and only suitable for perfectly smooth surfaces as you effectively grind off the top layer, do NOT use on any textures surface or it will end up smooth. Usually sold as "Displex" cell phone display polish. Got a bit out of fashion since most phones use rather a glass screen instead of plastic these days.
- H2O2. Can do wonders, especially if combined with UV light. there are loads of tutorials on youtube, so i wont go into detail. Loads of work and can be a bit expensive, but usually yields awesome results for stuff that could not be whitened with the other methods above.
- Airbrush. Kinda cheating and not an option if "everything has to be 100% original", but you have to admit that airbrush painted cases can look pretty neat if you do it right. Plus you can pick the color of your choice. If it's not for collectible reasons but for personal decorative uses then maybe an option.
Thanks guys!
I'll try to get some "BBlonde" or something with high % of peroxide and try it out when I get my sweet retro case
I'll try alcohol as well as soap on some internals to make sure I won't damage anything.
Thank you for your suggestions!
I'll try to get some "BBlonde" or something with high % of peroxide and try it out when I get my sweet retro case
I'll try alcohol as well as soap on some internals to make sure I won't damage anything.
Thank you for your suggestions!
Chuck(G)
25k Member
It's odd how quickly things fade from memory on this forum.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Retr0bright
On a cheap 90s case, I wouldn't have qualms about using it. If it was a rare piece of kit, and appearance was important, I'd probably paint it with a water-based acrylic, which can be easily removed. Generally, chemical treatment is frowned upon by the museum curator community because it does appear to damage the surface of the plastic. But then, plastics in general are a pain in the neck for curators.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Retr0bright
On a cheap 90s case, I wouldn't have qualms about using it. If it was a rare piece of kit, and appearance was important, I'd probably paint it with a water-based acrylic, which can be easily removed. Generally, chemical treatment is frowned upon by the museum curator community because it does appear to damage the surface of the plastic. But then, plastics in general are a pain in the neck for curators.
car88fan2
Experienced Member
Did this just last week with 'Salon Care 30'. You might be able to find something similar in the UK.
car88fan2
Experienced Member
No UV light. Just set them out in the sun for about a hour each side. Never tried to use a UV light. The main thing is when you put them outside in the sun is be sure they are wrapped up in the Cling-Wrap very well so it doesn't dry out, if it does you will get really bad blotches.
This is the product I used
They make a 40 and 50 but out here you need a cosmologist license to buy it so I used the 30 and it works just fine.
This is the product I used
They make a 40 and 50 but out here you need a cosmologist license to buy it so I used the 30 and it works just fine.
markyb86
Member
The reason you set them in the sun, is because it gives off UV light.
kyodai
Experienced Member
I bought an expensive UV lamp and had it running for a whole day and a night, that also did the trick. Well it was winter, so there wasn't that much sun.
EvanK
VCFed Founder
Going to be de-yellowing a //e Platinum this weekend. Check out this picture of the top cover. You can see the non-yellowed part on bottom. Big difference! I'll post "after" pictures.
SomeGuy
Veteran Member
Interested to see how that turns out. Will the color even out? Will the printed logo get damaged?
DId you have a chance to do it? How did it go?
olePigeon
Veteran Member
I don't use exact measurements, but I buy several 32 oz bottles of H2O2 for US $1 at my local store. I dump them into a clear plastic bin, top it off with water (or at last enough to cover whatever parts I'm briting), then leave in then sun. I check every few hours or so, rotate if needs be.
They turn out great! Here're my attempts documented at the 68k MLA forum:
https://68kmla.org/forums/index.php?/topic/24774-2nd-attempt-at-retr0brite/
I stay away from the gels and creams because I got terrible results using them. Not that they didn't reverse coloring, but it was very, very, very uneven coloring. I put on as even a coat as I possibly could (even used nice foam brushes), and I got horrible banding and splotches where the cream was ever so thicker in one spot than another.
They turn out great!
Here're my attempts documented at the 68k MLA forum:https://68kmla.org/forums/index.php?/topic/24774-2nd-attempt-at-retr0brite/
I stay away from the gels and creams because I got terrible results using them. Not that they didn't reverse coloring, but it was very, very, very uneven coloring. I put on as even a coat as I possibly could (even used nice foam brushes), and I got horrible banding and splotches where the cream was ever so thicker in one spot than another.
Guybrush3pwood
Experienced Member
- Joined
- Jun 19, 2015
- Messages
- 155
I use the same exact method with the same exact product. Works like a charm every time. Don't bother with a UV light, just set it out in the sun.
Trixter
Veteran Member
The 3% solution? Also, what store? Something like Walgreens?
They turn out great!
That forum link doesn't work; can you repost? I would like to see what your results were.
I've stayed away from retr0brite because I was afraid I'd get the mixture or procedure wrong, but dumping a ton of over-the-counter chemicals into a tub and leaving it in the sun seems pretty hard to screw up...
Sun.. that is luxury I do not have, I live in Scotland:D
but will try to get my panel to dip in 3% or whatever I will get from chemists.
I will stick it up outside, won't need to top up with water, rain will do it for me