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Amiga 2000 Capacitors List

Uhm, just curious here but why the full recap? I'm not aware of capacitors being an age related failure point on the machines.
 
Mmm, indeed there's no list of capacitors for this revision available in the net, or at least I'm not able to find it. Of course, the schematics could have it; but seems that only rev 6.x are spread over the net. AFAIK the 4.x motherboards are not common, seems a matter of time and patience and write it by yourself :-(

As NeXT pointed out, are you planning a full recap?, it's not common at all (at least not so common as with its cousins A600 or A1200, pure bullshit).
 
Wait what do you mean? Watch out that I don't short them if I replace them?

Every time I cold boot the machine after it's been off for a while it goes to red-screen. Then I turn it off for about 10 seconds and back on and it works perfectly fine (literally like clockwork). Based on those symptoms I assumed it was capacitor issues.
 
He means that the tantalum caps usually fail shortcircuiting the rail; but as the A2000 still works (sort of) seems that you don't have this issue.
@TheCorfiot: Never thought about that, are there tantalum caps in the A2000 motherboard?

Red screen means kickstart(ROM) problem, indeed what you're seeing seems a capacitor problem; but watch out battery leakages, look at CPU and Kickstart sockets and check for corrosion of any kind. Try also reseating/cleaning pins and if possible, replace with another KS chip.
 
Well that's what confused me... I don't think there are tantalum caps.

The thing with the chip problems (yeah I know that's what the code means - sometimes it's green... it's semi-variable... but the codes would suggest a problem in the ... the technical name for the set fails me - custom chips - special chips... what am I thinking of?). And definitely the Agnus is rigged in a very non-standard way... but the machine itself always works and works perfectly. It's just at that initial boot. And that's what makes me think it's some electrical issue that would again point to capacitance.

I wanted a caps list bc once I take the machine apart it's going to take me a while to do a bunch of stuff if I didn't have that ready-set (with caps also bought). But it seems I'm going to have to do some diagnosing. I mean truthfully it's not a big deal so long as there's no cap damage to the board. I was mostly concerned this might be a degenerative problem. But if it's degenerative but only hurts the chips then I'll run them out. Just so long as it's not doing proximity damage in the process.
 
To be fair, I've never seen caps damage in an A2000 PCB (I've own four of them over time); but that doesn't means they can't fail of course :). Indeed seems a charge issue...or maybe a heath one, bad contact due dirty or corroded pins?.

About the battery, you haven't mention how it looks so I suppose it's in perfect condition, in the 90% of the A2000 repairs it's involved in some way.
 
Interesting. For the video slot too? I've had issues with the video doubler.

(I cut the battery out before I cleaned it. Could not replacing it be causing the issue? I didn't think about that. It was corroded when I got it.)
 
To be fair, I've never seen caps damage in an A2000 PCB (I've own four of them over time); but that doesn't means they can't fail of course :).

Must you go against the flow so hard? It's a 2000. They do not require recaps.
They do not require recaps.
THEY DO NOT REQUIRE RECAPS.
The power supply on the other hand...meh, it doesn't hurt to recap that once every 25 years.
A blinking red screen indicates a chip ram problem. Also inspect the AGNUS chip and socket.
Actually, reseat any socketed chip you possibly can and if you have not already done so, remove the battery.

Contrary to what amibay tells you Amiga's are hacky pieces of crap. If reseating chips doesn't work and you do not have any battery damagethan one of the craptacularly manufactured ASIC's have died and believe me, they DO die, but for now focus around the chip ram.
 
Hey NeXT, do you have any problem with your CAPS? :lol:
Remember that I'm not the OP and I'm also sure that there's any other kind of problem in this board; but for sure, I'm not aware of any kind of "eternal" capacitor; so my comment (just that, a casual comment) seems perfectly fine to me.

OTOH, Chip Ram color code is green, not red:

Red - An error in the Kickstart rom as detected.
Green - An error in the Chip Ram was detected.
Blue - An error in the custom chip set was detected.
Yellow - The CPU encountered an error before the system's error-trapping code (the code the calls up the Guru) was in place.
Black - No CPU detected.
Grey - CPU Passed the test.
White - CPU failure.

But you know, the color codes are not an exact science and there're a lot more involved behind them.

Time to start working on this board!

@TheCorfiot: Really good to know, thanks!, they indeed could be a potential source of hassle.
 
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Yeah... NeXT, I second that, and the problem is also that the color codes that I get aren't consistent. I was trying to test it again now to see which the most common color code is now and it took longer than normal to get it to boot. I think this (all) may actually be connected to the keyboard. It usually works when I reseat the keyboard cable (really firmly). But tonight I got both green [I'm also pretty sure there's no error in the chip RAM] and pink (not red... I assure you; I've also gotten red before). So... I mean capslock that and tell me how Pink fits into your A therefore B framework here...

As I say, anecdotally, I think it may be the keyboard. It's possible it's the chips. But I don't trust that the color codes (here) correspond to that 1 to 1 equation of those lists. I also get a black screen a lot and I guarantee you the 68k is fine. I guess it's just going to be one of those weird things. I wonder what relation the keyboard would have, though. Maybe it's a detection issue in the BIOS that halts the startup sequence?

[I also forgot to mention re: red screen; I broke the socket (the plastic part) for the Agnus chip; so that chip is actually sitting sort of above the socket (so that the pins all make contact). I don't know that I'm describing that well: the plastic part on the socket cracked meaning it can be pushed back slightly if the chip is seated properly... I don't know how to describe that better but as per my previous descriptions it works fine - though the seating could be causing some of these issues (but then why does it never blip out when the machine's actually running...).]
 
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