• Please review our updated Terms and Rules here

Toshiba T1000XE

Thats Kewl... Thanks, I'll look into buying some NiCad to suite then.. Besides, then i'll have a full set of Nicads to test some of the other equipment I have that I know uses them.....

:twisted:
 
SinisterDragon said:
I just assumed the Batteries in the T1000XE where NiMh. How long have NiMh been around??? If the cells are NiCad that would be HEAPS cheaper from what I have seen... How can I be sure of what ios in the system???


_________________
Hey, Just because i'm Evil doesn't make me a bad person you know.....

http://www.pbase.com/sinisterdragon

NiCads were common up till about '94, when NiMH started to become the dominant force (although they actually appeared somewhat earlier).

--T
 
I think the final death-knell to NiCad was, aside from the 'memory-effect', which in later ones was actually almost non-existant, the 'Cadmium' part.

Cadmium, like Mercury, persistent, bad for the environment, a popular cause.

MimH, they smartly names Nickel-Metal-Hydride, much less politically offensive, for who can tell what the heck the 'Metal' part of NiMh is, anyway.

Even they're going by the way side. Li-Ion is the current fad. Maybe the next gen will have something really odd, like a McRib-fueled fuel-cell, or something. Or energy derived from bacteria eating tobacco. Now there's a project for PhillipMorris to sink their money into.

patscc
 
Update on the Toshiba bat-packs.

I pulled a T1600 bat-pack apart, for the heck of it, and I have a couple of dead ones.

1. In some spots, the seams between the lid and package appear either glued or heat-welded. It might be good to use a sharp Xacto knife or smoething to score the seams well before you pull it apart.

2. Rectangular NiCad's. Dig that, like, totally square.Appearantly some genius at Toshiba figured out for tiling a 3-dimensional rectangular enclosure with a regular pattern, nothing beats a rectangle/cube.

3. In mine, in between internal leads, there's a gizmo in heat-shrink tubing which I bet is a fuse. So, if there's one in your's, disconnect the cells from it, take an Ohmeter to it, and if it indicates open( i.e. ultra-high resistance ), replace it along with the cells.

4. If you see white powder in there, and touch it, you will die. Seriosously, wash your hands afterwards.


patscc
 
Leakage don't always equal bad batteries, depending on the type of NiCad. Some are vented, and might leak once or twice and still take a good charge. They're self-sealing sometimes, after they have leaked. I just got a couple of computers in today's mail, and both batteries are showing signs of leakage. One took a full charge, and the other is quite dead, so it'll be a good candidate for re-building.

--T
 
No, I'm talking serious white powder here, like FBI-attention quantaties.
Terry makes an excellent point, though. You should always try to charge the buggers out of circuit.

Worn-out ones suck current like nobodies business. A cheap way to deal with this is to hook a small light bulb roughly equal to what you're looking at( If you're doing a Tosh bat pack, use a 6-volt, 100mA bulb, or a bulb from a 4-cell stick flashlight. Don't use the headlight from your truck) in series with your power supply and cell. If you've got it right, the bulb will perhaps glow briefly, and then dim. If the bulb stays lit for an extended period, cell is shorted, forget it. If bulb stays lit for about 10 minutes or so, you have a good shot at recovery( which is what's happening as you wait )

The lamp acts as a current-sensitve, time-sensitive in-rush current limiter, low-tech, but it works.
To get technical, for the lamp, you're shooting for a bulb whose nominal current is about 70% of the max charge current of the bat pack you're dealing with. This can be hard to find. So wing it.

That said, if you're rebuilding a pack, do your self a favour, see if you can mod it to work like a battery copartment. You know, load button-top cells when they wear out. The trick to this is you need a spring (ball-point pen spring, widen out the top couple of coils)
Or, if the physical layout doesn't permit, perhaps some single-cell battery holders, strung together, will fit. Anything is better than trying to solder wire to a battery.

patscc
 
I usually try zapping shorted-out NiCads before junking them. Most of the time they come back good as new. This technique also works pretty good for cells that have taken a reverse-charge.
Actually, I'm getting pretty good at soldering directly to batteries. I've only ever had one blow up on me, and that was many years ago. Lucky for me, it was a very small cell...no harm, no foul. The trick is to rough-up the terminal with a file or sandpaper first, just enough to remove the plating and get down to the brass, which takes the solder very quickly, with a lot less heat involved.

--T
 
Hey, that's a great tip, never occured to me the top and bottom caps might just be plated. Can't wait to try it. So how does the NiCad rate in terms of 'pop-power' ? Sort of like an electrolytic cap of roughly the same physical dimension ? Or louder or softer ?

patscc
 
patscc said:
Hey, that's a great tip, never occured to me the top and bottom caps might just be plated. Can't wait to try it. So how does the NiCad rate in terms of 'pop-power' ? Sort of like an electrolytic cap of roughly the same physical dimension ? Or louder or softer ?

patscc

Actually, it was a small mercury button-cell that blew. It was somewhat louder than a 4.7uf tantalum cap, but nowhere near as loud as a 12v, car battery, or an old-fashioned ignition coil, both of which I've also had occaision to blow up.

--T
 
I'd love to get another though...

All hail T'k Nolojie! I was pining for my old, dead and gone 100XE and got a T1200 at goodwill for $10! WOOHOO! I haven't had a chance to do anything with it much but pop out the battery box and shake the screws out of it :? but the screen looks good. The rest of the laptop has seen better days. It seems also to have been used extensively. The ports have bends on them but only slightly, the modem pins are bent as if someone just pulled the wire out of it. The plastic around the screen is a littl ewarped but I think I can work with it if it'll work with me.

And I am gonna test the batteries and replace the cells whenever I can. They look like sub C cells but I don't know if I'll be able to get 2200mAh out of dustbuster batteries.
 
Update on my progress with the T1200.

It works. My stepson's gamecube has a power supply that outputs 12V @ 3.25A and has a plug that has two nice little holes that are great for sticking wires into.

The fdd seems to work fine. It reads all the 720kb disks I can find, writes too.

The HDD is *not* IDE. I took a better look at the spec sheet and it's MFM. And it is not working right. It won't spin up and dos 3.3 won't recognize it. Does anyone here have a 32mb or less hdd they can part with? I have sent off emails to a couple of dealers and am waiting for a response but don't thing they'll be positive. Or they will be positively overpriced.

The cmos battery holds a charge, though (under test right now; so far it's been an hour since I took it off main power).

The main batteries that I thought were sub-C are really full size C and they're common and very replacable. And so I will have to, since the ones that are in the pack are no good. About 15sec and it goes into hibernation for another 15 and shuts down.

The LCD screen is flawless and lovely.

Keyboard works perfect.

I have looked around and can't find the harddrive setup or a keystroke to take me into the bios of this machine. I found setup1.exe which takes me to all but the hdd. Even lets you set up a ramdisk (neat!). It's possible that the hdd just needs to be set back up.

Any tips from the pros?

Pics: http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rollmeupa20/album?.dir=/d87a
 
There might not be a hdd setup because the bios is pre-programmed to only recognize one certain kind of drive. That's the case with some of those old laptops. I have managed to install different drives in some of them (sometimes) by using a drive overlay, like DiskManager, by Ontrack. It just has to report the "correct" geometry to the bios.

--T
 
NathanAllan said:
The HDD is *not* IDE. I took a better look at the spec sheet and it's MFM. And it is not working right. It won't spin up and dos 3.3 won't recognize it. Does anyone here have a 32mb or less hdd they can part with?

What kind of MFM? I assume 3½"? I might have a drive..... maybe.
 
Yep, 3 1/2". I went around to a couple of the goodwills yesterday and couldn't find anything that had one in it.

I got Telix 3.51 and it looks like a winner. I got a runtime error from my main computer when I tried to install it, though. I'll try on the backup next, it'll probably work.

I was also thinking of another way to simulate the dial tone. Can't I use some kind of telephone tester for that? I figure there's no cheaper way to network than modems, tellix looks great for DOS and am downloading it for windows now. I might get these things talking after all, heh heh.

Has anybody tried those serial port to ethernet adapters on older machines? Looks promising...

http://www.hw-group.com/products_en.html#embedded_ethernet

And another note on batteries:

http://store.sundancesolar.com/nicrecbatc.html

Not the highest capacity, but it'll work. Since I need six of them, that's $18, and that makes a cheap laptop battery.
 
Disk Drive is IDE 2.5"

Disk Drive is IDE 2.5"

A bit late in the day, but I'm trying to get a Toshiba T1000XE working ( second time having given up a few years ago ).

Batteries - Don't know what type they were but I fitted six NiCd and it seems to work okay.

Hard Disk - Mine's a Conner CP-2024. Definitely IDE not MFM. Definitely 2.5" not 3.5". The box connector is a flat plastic ribbon cable which runs to a PCB which has the socket for the HDD pins. At the HDD end it's a standard 44-pin connector with four pins separate to the rest, as found on most 2.5" IDE's. If the disk is just 'wiped' it should be possible to reformat on any PC using a 3.5" to 2.5" IDE adapter.
 
Dynabook J3100SS

Dynabook J3100SS

I've got a Toshiba Dynabook J3100SS which I think is the Japanse version equivalent of T1000XE.

Can you show me how to take the case apart and also the battery pack apart as well? I heard that there are more rechargeable batteries inside the case.



A bit late in the day, but I'm trying to get a Toshiba T1000XE working ( second time having given up a few years ago ).

Batteries - Don't know what type they were but I fitted six NiCd and it seems to work okay.

Hard Disk - Mine's a Conner CP-2024. Definitely IDE not MFM. Definitely 2.5" not 3.5". The box connector is a flat plastic ribbon cable which runs to a PCB which has the socket for the HDD pins. At the HDD end it's a standard 44-pin connector with four pins separate to the rest, as found on most 2.5" IDE's. If the disk is just 'wiped' it should be possible to reformat on any PC using a 3.5" to 2.5" IDE adapter.
 
Hi, I just received two T1000 laptops, a T1000le and a T1000xe

Both of them have faulty batteries, but I managed to boot the 'xe', just removing the battery and connecting the terminals to my lab power supply at 7.2V, with a diode to prevent the laptop trying to "charge" my power supply. :)

But the 'le' refuses to boot. Using the same trick, it just "trys" to start. The lights go on for a fraction of second, the FDD makes a short sound, and then, nothing.

Any ideas?
 
Back
Top