Search results

Just wait until something happens they can't blame on the sellers. I actually never had problems with the products themselves except for one crappy BNC cable and I still have many of the products I've ordered there. Claims management is useless... I think I'll go the Paypal route from now on

I've had their delivery company which consolidates the package misprint a label (our post office sent me a scan of the rejected package). Even though it was clear that it was AliExpress or their companys fault (not the seller, or me or the local post office), they still didn't want to refund...

Arcade monitors were running for hours at the time, and if you work on them to refurbish / resell them it makes sense to change recap it to reduce the chance of customer complaints, especially if you've done it many times and are experienced with soldering.... but as a hobbyist starting out with...

That's kind of a bad advice. If you do that you don't learn anything and if it goes wrong you could add additional problems and it will be nearly impossible or extremely frustrating to fix. If changing brightness doesn't do anything I suggest you check G1 control grid voltage and components...

Could you post a picture of your bubbles? If you have any blackened traces or vias it's most likely capacitor or battery damage and it can prevent proper operation. I guess your problem is corrosion on the logic board

Yeah no problem, I think the conclusion is that these drives are specifically made for their maker's laptops and it can't really be fixed with a driver because they expect the matching hardware.

I don't use FB and opened an issue here: https://github.com/keirf/greaseweazle/issues/507 Hopefully someone has some information

Overheated resistors usually have their hull flake off, are brown/charred or the board around it is baked to some extent. I would guess you probably have more corrosion and damage from the leaks going on and more components could be out of spec because of it. I would look for more black spots...

There was a lot of crap in the 2000s regarding PSUs. Open it up and post some pictures of the insides... I wouldn't plug it in a mainboard you care about...

Thanks again. After downloading your version I still had the same problem. When going through the open issues I found this one: https://github.com/davidgiven/fluxengine/issues/764 Apparently fluxengine doesn't handle this properly without specifying shugart_drive in the configuration or...

Dell Inspiron 8100. PIII w/ 1 GHz, GeForce 2 Go GPU, hell of a resolution for a laptop of that era. I got quite some use out of it before it got replaced by a Centrino laptop. I would bring these laptops to LAN parties and used them more for gaming than for school :)

Thanks. Which build of fluxengine is working for you? It seems to be bugged in my case. gw.exe works fine but the latest version of fluxengine doesn't spin the drive or complains about tracks or indexes not found or just hangs. EDIT: Here it also talsk about a custom connector for attaching an...

Thanks for the reply, I would like to go through my drives and check if they are good for this task. Which command did you run to obtain the read timings?

Good to hear you're still trying to fix it. It looks like electrolyte corroded the resistor? I managed to recap my slab PSU. As soon as I have some space freed up I'll bring the printer back from the basement

Hi @richarjo , how did you do this drive response test? I've got a Greaseweazle and need to go through and/or archive a moving box worth of Apple II floppies. I'm not sure what would be better, hook up a complete Apple II with all it needs or try to find a Greaseweazle setup which works

That sounds great, and sorry to hear about your logic analyzers... It seems like those Picos are a real saviour in the vintage computing world

You need a really good, strong soldering iron and preferrably desoldering gun. The lower PCB is fused to this aluminium plate which absorbs all the heat. I'm also not sure how I'm going to be able to put the replacement SMD cap back on. I'm thinking of heating the whole board on a hot plate or...

Jim, did you make any progress on the 6530 replacements? As predicted by Dave, it's hard finding one

Well, bad news. I finally got time (and tools) to take this cursed thing apart. Unfortunately, there is an SMD electrolytic rotting away in there. Without looking too deep at the potted components, this is what I could identify: 150 uF / 400 V (C ??, primary cap) 22 uF / 6.3 V SMD...

The circuit is described here: https://forum.vcfed.org/index.php?threads/next-400dpi-laser-printer-restoration.1242501/page-4#post-1316015 How is the voltage on C156? Do you have the real fuser lamp connected and does it turn on (and does the temperature sensor report the rise in temperature)...