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I would get a set of electronic calipers (Believe me, these are life-savers.), and measure the pitch between loaded/filled positions on the flex cable. (The middle of one conductor/wire to the middle of another. This is going to be small, probably in the range of half-a-millimeter.) Then...

All right, try ACIN or PSRD (This could mean Power Supply ReaDy).

It's very difficult to figure this out, because there is no clarification anywhere in the manual, to tell what each acronym means, because there is ambiguity in what it could stand for. Normally, IBM 5150 and systems that used this standard had a pin that would specify stable power, and allow...

Here is the archive for the connector converter board. I hope it contains everything. Please note that this is NOT for the LQ104V1DW01 that adalbert used. This is for an LQ104V1DG21. The DW01 is physically smaller and seems to be more modern, despite the same display area. The DG21 is larger...

It looks like your system is stuck at a power-on test. I think there is an extra connection that you have to add which specifies stability of the input power. I cannot tell which pin it is on the PSU table diagram. Will you show me the copy of the manual that you downloaded? Maybe I can find...

Yeah, I'm not liking that memory chips like these are losing their ability to hold information. I have an S3 Virge that needs some memory, and it seems like the memory I got was just as bad as yours.

I was thinking about that. I need to figure out what models I used to print the support brackets for the screen, because I had to test the fit quite a few times, and they're spread-out over multiple files.

Yes, I believe so. Some have used a separate power supply (what we call a workbench power supply) to test electronics.

Oh no... I see some corroded trace wires on the board. Also, some of the IC's solder pads have come off as well. 🥺

That looks like there is a short-circuit somewhere. You may have a bad power regulator (the bright-green, or black, vertical rectangular components), you may have caused a solder connection that is shorting an incorrect power connection, or the leaked chemicals from the capacitors may be causing...

That was easier than I thought. (Yet somehow difficult, even with my soldering experience.) The pin adapter is finished! I'm working on a new power supply next. I'm hoping to add in a battery-charging circuit. I need some help with a schematic, if possible.

Yeah, to the left, those are VRAM chips. I wouldn't worry too much about the brand that you get. Just get pin and voltage-compatible RAM. As long the RAM type (just as an example: 262,144 x 8 bit) matches between the old and the new, you shouldn't have any problems.

I have most of the components on the way, but I'm not going to really start until I have one last component, a large LIPO battery pack (hopefully with a protection circuit of its own) to fit within the space not taken up by the optimized power supply board, within the original PSU casing.

There is your problem! The capacitors with the residue! Also, good eye! I didn't see them before!

For something like this, I think you have a capacitor (condenser) problem. Check on the back of the LCD module, and try to find some capacitors that have visible residue next to them.

I don't believe I got a working screen at all. Nothing but white. It's been a long while, though. I think I did try to test the screen after each group of replaced capacitors. Even trying to remove the module-in-question was a pain, because the solder was ever-so-wicked into the strut vias (you...

Oh, I know. I tried. I did use new capacitors. In fact, I even tried to use the little rectangular MLCC capacitors. Nothing worked. I wanted to use the original screen and its electronics, but I'm finding out in recent years that sometimes there has to be a compromise.

The electronics for the SXC's LQ10D013 screen are awkward in many places. First off, there are areas on the screen which use the same kind of SMD electrolytics as the Sega Game Gear. (i.e. the capacitor lays flat, horizontally on the board, with the metal can surrounded in a rectangular...

Here's the adapter for the screen so-far.

AHA! I knew it was bad capacitors! I've seen a similar ghosting, again, on a Sega Game Gear. I installed the wrong value of capacitor when I first repaired my now-departed original Game Gear (I have another one now, repaired as well), and it caused a weird white line to pop up on the display...