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Be sure to check the caps around it too. Ceramics and tantalums.

Start -> run Type dxdiag in the run box and press enter. ESS chips most definitely pretended to be Sound Blasters because they wanted to provide DOS compatibility. They had to emulate the SB if they wanted games to work. The device name is given by the drivers, not the device itself or...

Run dxdiag and get the PCI device string for the sound chip, it'll tell you what the card really is. If the hardware ID starts with 0x1102, then it is Creative Labs. If it's 0x125D, then it's ESS. You can use this website to look up PCI device IDs: https://pcilookup.com

Creative Labs briefly sold cheap clone sound cards based on ESS and Ensoniq sound chips in the mid to late 90s, which is probably why Windows thinks its some sort of Sound Blaster. ESS's business strategy was to be cheap and good enough. They emulated SB 1.x/2.x and later SB16 for DOS...

Found an MII-333 for $30.

Pretty much every Mac from the G5 era and older by now has failing or failed capacitors. You'll need to completely recap the entire machine before you do any further troubleshooting. A capacitor does not have to look physically bad to be very bad, just replace everything. When removing the old...

Apple engineers back then did amazing things working with extremely limited resources, and carefully sneaking around Jobs, who was a walking disaster wherever he went. folklore.org has a lot of info about what went on in the early days of Apple and the trials and tribulations they went through...

The Macintosh Classic has a single fan, the one he's talking about. It does not have a rear fan. I found a good exploded view of the machine: The Hard Drive is the least heat producing device in the machine, the analog + power board is where all of the heat is produced, and the CRT. Like I...

It's funny to see a 20+ year old thread continued like it was just yesterday.

There is no correct orientation for the fan, no matter if it pushes or pulls, it will be ineffective all the same. The fan is a bolted on kludge to fix Job's idiot design philosophy. The logic board isn't what you have to worry about, it's the analog/power board where all of the heat is...

Start by checking continuity, if the keyboard is not responding at all, I'd suspect something like a broken wire or solder joint. Beep out the ADB cable and make sure all four wires are good. Also make sure the connectors to the PCB inside the keyboard don't have cracked solder joints.

More than just bad balls or a bad ASIC can cause artifacting. Check all of the passives, like the resistor networks and SMD caps. Also make sure there aren't any damaged traces.

The Celeron won't be better due to the slower bus speed, but it won't be *that* much slower. The Coppermine core didn't require huge amounts of cache to perform well, it having half the cache of the Pentium 3 didn't hurt it much performance wise in general purpose uses. It's not like the later...

Demo units usually have extra software to run in a kiosk mode, which the orange sticker on the box seems to insinuate. They're also usually in poor condition from having been hammered on by the careless public, so expect scuffing, scratching and dented/cracked plastics. Not that you didn't...

Could be bad capacitors, or broken solder joints somewhere. It also looks like the LCD panel itself has a seal failure and is letting oxygen/moisture inside the screen. In any case, you'll have to take the display apart to do further diagnostics.

Instead of storing it in your basement, enjoy it while you can, because many models of the G5 are hideously unreliable. The logic boards on the early G5s are notorious for failure due to ROHS solder. The power supplies are also notorious for failure due to bad capacitors. Trying to repair the...

Every time you reseat a chip, every time you scrub a socket, you change it slightly. You also remove material from the IC leg scraping the contacts. You are getting a different result every time, it's just not a consistent result, nor will it ever be a consistent result. You have nearly 50 year...

The problem with single wipe sockets is that the contacts can become ever so slightly deformed to where they won't contact the pins on the IC properly, no matter how much you clean them. Dual wipe contacts grab the pin on both sides and hold the IC much more securely in a way it has more chance...

If you haven't changed the single wipe sockets, you need to do that. The random memory amounts could be bad sockets, or it could be bad memory.

I haven't bought an active antenna in years, the last one I got was from Walmart. Something in the mid price category that looked functional, it worked well enough. That is, until we got a metal roof installed. Had to put an outdoor antenna on a pole after that.