• Please review our updated Terms and Rules here

Anyone encountered this? Siemens ROLM 98d5192 386DX

lordhailsham

Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2018
Messages
30
Hey folks - I have been trying to resurrect an old 386 clone, and found a pristine condition Siemens 386 motherboard on the ebays. It's NOS and I can get it to POST but I have no info on the board.

IMG_0855.JPG

Even though I have a legit keyboard - hitting <DEL> does not invoke setup.

IMG_0857.JPG

I also tried F2, ESC space etc etc. no luck!

IMG_0859.JPG

I cannot get it to boot as the floppy is in need of some TLC. But right now I'd love to be able to get into the BIOS setup.

Below FYI is the battery connector. I have not attached a battery as I have no idea which type or polarity.

Would the absence of battery prevent setup from running?

Any thoughts or tips appreciated!
thanks
Andy

IMG_0860.JPG
 
Would the absence of battery prevent setup from running?
Unlikely, but is there any reason why you haven't connected a battery?

Any thoughts or tips appreciated!
Pressing the F1 key to 'resume' works, so the question is, why doesn't pressing the DEL key work.

It would be unlikely that you have a keyboard that has a faulty DEL key (but that cannot be discounted yet). Or do you know that the DEL key on that keyboard works?

It could be that even though the "Hit <DEL ..." message is on-screen for a while, that the actual 'window of opportunity' for pressing the DEL key is small.
Try the following:
- As soon as the message appears, tap the <DEL> key a few times (rather than once).
- As soon as the message appears, hold down the the <DEL> key.
- Press the <DEL> key just before the message appears.
- Hold down the <DEL> key just before the message appears.
 
FAST/QUICK BOOT may be enabled in your BIOS - and the 'window of opportunity' for getting <DEL> in quickly may be quite short!

Try pressing the <DEL> key when the keyboard lights up - rather than when the message appears.

There may also be a means of starting the machine up and bypassing FAST/QUICK BOOT?

Normally some way of powering ON or OFF by holding the power button in until multiple beeps. Really intuitive...

There may also be a link on the motherboard?

Dave
 
Hello! Some notes below... cheers 😄
Andy

Unlikely, but is there any reason why you haven't connected a battery?
Well I am a bit hesitant as I am not sure exactly what sort of battery or polarity.... (googling siemens rolm 98d5192 seems to cough up almost zero clues.)

However referring to https://minuszerodegrees.net/battery/cmos/vintage_motherboard_batteries.htm would it be a safe assumption that the right-most jumper on my board should be the positive?
1677970440850.png
Pressing the F1 key to 'resume' works, so the question is, why doesn't pressing the DEL key work.
Actually the screen rapidly shoots past that message after a second or so... the keyboard appears good, I use it on my 5150 :)
It would be unlikely that you have a keyboard that has a faulty DEL key (but that cannot be discounted yet). Or do you know that the DEL key on that keyboard works?
Yep works on my 5150. I am using one of these things https://www.ebay.com/itm/204252649899
It could be that even though the "Hit <DEL ..." message is on-screen for a while, that the actual 'window of opportunity' for pressing the DEL key is small.
Try the following:
- As soon as the message appears, tap the <DEL> key a few times (rather than once).
- As soon as the message appears, hold down the the <DEL> key.
- Press the <DEL> key just before the message appears.
- Hold down the <DEL> key just before the message appears.
Yeah tried these combinations.
Also removed disk controller, changed position of video card, tried alternative video card... similar result
 

Attachments

  • 1677970339049.png
    1677970339049.png
    210.9 KB · Views: 6
Last edited:
Hi! Notes below 😀
FAST/QUICK BOOT may be enabled in your BIOS - and the 'window of opportunity' for getting <DEL> in quickly may be quite short!

Try pressing the <DEL> key when the keyboard lights up - rather than when the message appears.
Keyboard doesn't flicker or light up at any point - if I press CAPSLOCK or NUMLOCK it will light up for a few seconds only


There may also be a means of starting the machine up and bypassing FAST/QUICK BOOT?

Normally some way of powering ON or OFF by holding the power button in until multiple beeps. Really intuitive...

There may also be a link on the motherboard?
Motherboard has the following:

SPEAKER (connected)
MON/COL (jumpered for COL)
KEYLOCK (not connected)
RESET (connected)
TURBO LED (not connected)
TURBO SW (not connected)
Battery (not connected)
 
ah yes. I can do that! Let me report back :cool:
umm actually not sure I did this right...
1678050498683.png
Sorry I wasnt quite sure what you meant by "negative power supply connector pin" (the AT power supply connector?) but I tried everything I could find on the board and this is the only place my continuity tester would beep is at the top of "CR2"

1678050664389.png

Anyway... still not sure what flavor of battery I should try and if my polarity is correctly assumed 😳

thanks for the patience and help!

Andy
 
That's kind of strange--the negative side should have continuity with all of the ground points on the motherboard (e.g. floppy odd pins, IDE ground return, etc.) in addition to the ground pins on the power connector. Let's see the solder side (bottom side) of the connector and see where the traces go.
 
However referring to https://minuszerodegrees.net/battery/cmos/vintage_motherboard_batteries.htm would it be a safe assumption that the right-most jumper on my board should be the positive?
View attachment 1253755

It appears to me that you have interpreted the reference exactly backwards. Positive would be pin 1, on the left in your picture. The missing pin should be right next to positive. Try again to measure continuity from pin 4 (right-most in your picture) to one of the power supply connector ground pins (where a black wire from the power supply connects) to confirm polarity, as Chuck suggested.

... the keyboard appears good, I use it on my 5150

... I am using one of these things https://www.ebay.com/itm/204252649899

You're not also using that device to connect your "modern" keyboard to the 386 are you? It won't work of course - it is compatible only with PC/XT class computers.
 
It appears to me that you have interpreted the reference exactly backwards.
sigh... :biggrin:

Positive would be pin 1, on the left in your picture. The missing pin should be right next to positive. Try again to measure continuity from pin 4 (right-most in your picture) to one of the power supply connector ground pins (where a black wire from the power supply connects) to confirm polarity, as Chuck suggested.\
Yep will do!

You're not also using that device to connect your "modern" keyboard to the 386 are you? It won't work of course - it is compatible only with PC/XT class computers.
Well yeah I am attempting to use that little dongle to connect a PS/2 keyboard... well that's embarrassing I assumed a 5-pin DIN-style AT keyboard was more or less the same as an XT class one
 
ok so here's some progress: I abandoned the dongle and dug out an old TELEX keyboard which has a 5-pin DIN connector. I realized that the keyboard works great - I just need to press ALT-SHIFT to use the keys (there are some dip switches on the back I can fiddle with, perhaps that will address the ALT-SHIFT problem). I can now get into the BIOS!

ANYWAY! So the next step is the battery. I will pull out the board and test continuity later this PM and report back... cheers!
Andy
 
It appears to me that you have interpreted the reference exactly backwards. Positive would be pin 1, on the left in your picture. The missing pin should be right next to positive. Try again to measure continuity from pin 4 (right-most in your picture) to one of the power supply connector ground pins (where a black wire from the power supply connects) to confirm polarity, as Chuck suggested.

I am happy to report that (my) Pin 4 is indeed common to the power supply ground pins. And in fact every piece of metal in the case.

So now I know the polarity... what is the recommended battery I should try? (A non-rechargeable one I presume)

thanks!
Andy
 
The usual battery for these things was 4xAA cells. There are enough diode drops in the circuit to bring it down to 5V or less. 3xAA will also work fine. Should last about 7 years for alkalines. Keep the pack off the board, (bag it) just in case it decides to leak.
 
I use 3AAA personally, but usually 4AA holders are cheaper. I just happen to have a bunch of 3xAAA holders from old solar lights. And stick on velcro works great for holding the battery holder to the chassis.
 
I wonder how long a couple of CR123A lithium cells would last in this application. I've got a bunch of those with nothing to put them in (refugees from an old camera).
 
The board was probably intended for the control computer for a Rolm CBX (a PBX)... very common on university campuses (not sure how many are still around?) and I think I've seen their phones at Sears before they closed.
 
Rolm was absorbed by IBM and subsequently chopped up. The military stuff went to Loral, which was then picked up by Lockheed Martin. The civilian operation was divided up and sold to Siemens for the manufacturing arm and IBM hung onto the service and marketing parts, in partnership with Siemens.
Rolm no longer exists as a company.
 
SIEMENS (ROLM Systems) UM386-R 80386 Motherboards were the Planar Boards for the ROLM Voice Mail System. The motherboard you have (UM386-R) was from Replacement (Upgrade) Inventory, many NOS.

After IBM purchased ROLM (1984), the “new” ROLM Voice Mail System used IBM AT motherboards. I believe same as used in IBM 5162 (XT-286). IBM's ROLM division was later 50% sold to Siemens AG in 1989,
and by 1992, Siemens bought out IBM's remaining share in ROLM.
Siemens dropped ROLM name in late 1990s (still retains copyright, brand name).
==
This Siemens UM386-R Motherboard is Documented at The Retro Web
UM82C480 386/486 PC Chip Set. BIOS Image (AMI 1992) captured.
Would the absence of battery prevent setup from running?
YES
Your Siemens UM386-R motherboard is likely BLANK, Replacement (NOS) Inventory.
Address the Missing CMOS memory battery,
the AMI BIOS has the built-in SETUP routine for function CMOS memory configuration.
===
You need the 6 Volt CMOS Battery (non-Rechargable), common battery since 1984 with IBM AT (80286) and compatible motherboards (80386) that used 4-pin header (one pin missing/socket blocked for Polarity Keying).

IMG_4585.jpeg
You will find 3.6 Volt lithium memory batteries, BUT not ideal solution for 1990s 5 Volt memory ICs !!

IBM model 5170 (IBM AT, 1984) used IBM part number: 8286121 (discontinued)
Tadiran Batteries (Lake Success, NY) was one supplier, TL-5293/W
That Tadrian battery is now discontinued, BUT various companies fabricate ($$) plug-in replacement.

IMG_4589.jpeg

In the IBM Model 5162 (XT/286) had a built-in holder for its 6V battery, type BR-P2 or CR-P2.
IMG_4583.jpeg

IF you desire to DIY fabricate the IBM 5162 battery holder solution,
IMG_4587.jpeg
THEN purchase the Memory Protection Devices (MPD) BH223-L battery holder for BR-P2
from Digi-Key (in stock at $5.15). Just add Dupont connector.
IMG_4586.jpeg
Keystone 2478, 4-cell “AAA” (in series 4+1.5V) battery holder with wire leads and
correct Dupont socket (See First Photo)
Can be found at computer shops since 1990s (Jameco has the “AAA” holders ‘On Clearance’).

MINUS ZERO DEGREES — Knowledge-base for IBM Computers (Education thru History)
==
greg
chicago
 
Last edited:
Back
Top