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Anyone know of Generator repair forum?
- Thread starter VERAULT
- Start date
seaken
Veteran Member
You can't buy a "pot belly" Victorian cast wood stove anymore from a dealer and manufacturers can't make them anymore. This is what Chuck means by Non-EPA approved. But if you know where to look you can buy used stoves that are not EPA approved. Just won't come from a stove dealer anymore.
Out here in NYS we don't yet have cops like Chuck does but the industry is restricted. They stop the manufacture and distribution. I could get fined or even go out of business. But the local homeowner can still pretty much do as they please and buy and burn a non-EPA stove. As long as a neighbor does not complain. Then all hell can break loose.
Seaken
Out here in NYS we don't yet have cops like Chuck does but the industry is restricted. They stop the manufacture and distribution. I could get fined or even go out of business. But the local homeowner can still pretty much do as they please and buy and burn a non-EPA stove. As long as a neighbor does not complain. Then all hell can break loose.
Seaken
VERAULT
Veteran Member
@seaken i meant an actual used victorian stove in need of love.. i see them all the time.. but with no truck i cant get them home.
Nothing like a burning stove in winter.
there is just something about a fire thst other heating cant compare. if we put the oil furnace on it says the house is a certsin temp but i still feel a chill. if the fire is on it can be a cooler temp but feel warmer and much more cozy.
Nothing like a burning stove in winter.
there is just something about a fire thst other heating cant compare. if we put the oil furnace on it says the house is a certsin temp but i still feel a chill. if the fire is on it can be a cooler temp but feel warmer and much more cozy.
Chuck(G)
25k Member
Here in Oregon, this is what the state has to say about woodstoves/fireplace inserts. I wondered about the "Antique Art Stove" clause, so I wrote DEQ about it quite some time ago. Their response was that it was okay to own an antique stove, but not to operate it. I suppose you could use one as a boat anchor...
Agent Orange
Veteran Member
Summer of 2021 we had a major power outage in my sub. I bought a GENERAC 850KW portable gas fed unit and had a electrician install the box just out of the garage. The distribution panel has a one-pull safety to manually cut the power over. The generator, with a full tank, runs 13 hours or so on about 3-4 gallons. Not as sexy looking as the automatic units but then again it didn't cost 10K.
VERAULT
Veteran Member
i need to look for a backup like that and do a similar wire up
seaken
Veteran Member
Yes, I knew what you meant. I was trying to convey that it varies by region as to what someone can do with an old stove. Here in NY you could in fact pick it up in your truck and take it home and burn it and you won't get policed by the government. But if someone complains of smoke you'll get shut down.
In Chuck(G)'s region they actively police the smoke at the government level. I'm not sure but they may also police the sale of used stoves through private sales. I don't know. In all regions of the US they "police" the sale of non-EPA stoves at the manufacture and dealership levels. Some areas enforce the user by a permit structure.
Here, in NY, and apparently in CT, a "user" is not restricted unless someone complains and starts a process leading to a single use ban.
Seaken
In Chuck(G)'s region they actively police the smoke at the government level. I'm not sure but they may also police the sale of used stoves through private sales. I don't know. In all regions of the US they "police" the sale of non-EPA stoves at the manufacture and dealership levels. Some areas enforce the user by a permit structure.
Here, in NY, and apparently in CT, a "user" is not restricted unless someone complains and starts a process leading to a single use ban.
Seaken
Dwight Elvey
Veteran Member
Just curious, how long do you hold the starter switch? I've dealt with a number of gas generators but only slight knowledge of propane. I do know that they need to purge before starting. It might be that you are not letting it purge long enough.
Just a thought
Dwight
Just a thought
Dwight
VERAULT
Veteran Member
@Dwight Elvey the starter never even spins. Its never getting engaged. The relay is just clicking.
You are right though. During its weekly cycle it has to crank for 8 to 10 cranks to get the propane as the tanks are on the opposite end of the house.. but again its not cranking at all.
You are right though. During its weekly cycle it has to crank for 8 to 10 cranks to get the propane as the tanks are on the opposite end of the house.. but again its not cranking at all.
Gary C
Veteran Member
Only time I have ever had a clicking and no starter action, is with a duff battery. Relay closes, battery voltage collapses from the load applied, relay opens, battery terminal voltage recovers, relay closes, rinse and repeat.
VERAULT
Veteran Member
Yes I think my earlier diagnosis of a "good battery" need to be re-checked.
A battery can trivially test fine for voltage, but not have the cranking amps to do the job. I would pull the battery and have it more thoroughly tested. If it's just the battery, you're in for a quick fix.
From the photos, the device looks practically brand new, so I doubt it's really some wear and tear item. But batteries are batteries.
VERAULT
Veteran Member
So I have found out for sure what the clicking sound is in the battery. ITs part number 4 0C2174 1 RELAY, 12V 25A SPST (NON 7KW) on this pdf https://prod-generacsoa.azurefd.net/man ... 044/0F9695
OK! So I pulled out the battery and here is the thing. The voltage reading I was getting that I thought was good was the charging circuit voltage. When I removed the battery I am only getting 11.5V so once I go to crank it drops down to as low as 8.9V
Separate question but and URGENT one. And forgive me if this sounds stupid but how do I turn off the charging circuit so the positive lead is not live?! I cant figure it out. Im at the transfer switch and there is nothing obvious to kill the voltage going to the battery. I just dont want to leave a live lead in there while I am testing the battery pack and other things out.
And According the Jafirs link its the starter relay after all.
OK! So I pulled out the battery and here is the thing. The voltage reading I was getting that I thought was good was the charging circuit voltage. When I removed the battery I am only getting 11.5V so once I go to crank it drops down to as low as 8.9V
Separate question but and URGENT one. And forgive me if this sounds stupid but how do I turn off the charging circuit so the positive lead is not live?! I cant figure it out. Im at the transfer switch and there is nothing obvious to kill the voltage going to the battery. I just dont want to leave a live lead in there while I am testing the battery pack and other things out.
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There is a separate circuit (which should be on a breaker) coming from your breaker panel to the generator. Find and turn off this breaker. Failing that, you can isolate the 12V lead by placing it in a plastic or ceramic cup while you are working on it.
VERAULT
Veteran Member
You can also disconnect the main feed inside the generator, but easiest just to isolate the +12 lead. Your 12V charge circuit is likely coming from the 220 feed, in that case. Stick the battery terminal in a cup, and secure it with some tape. Then you can swap out the battery as you like.
VERAULT
Veteran Member
Alright I will do that I was just hoping there would be an easy direct way to disable that. Guess not.
seven-bit
Member
I have a 16k of 17k model that is 2 yrs old. Really curious what the solution is in case it happens to mine, since I'm not near any servicemen.
seven-bit
Member
Doing some reading. 1.) check terminals for good connection, no corrosion. 2.) check fuse. If battery voltage falls, current will increase and blow fuse. Sounds exactly like old Ford cars solenoid noise if battery was even a bit low.
These are not horribly complex devices. Yes, the voltage regulator is potted, and you won't be able to "repair" it, but replacement parts are available. The engine is just an engine - if there is compression, fuel, air and spark, it should run. The starter and (potentially automatic) choke is simple, and again parts are readily available. The generator is equally straightforward - and again, spare parts are available (you won't want to re-wind it yourself
As long as you are careful (because there are live 220V circuits present), there is no reason that you cannot service them yourself.
Most often, battery. Then solenoid/relay. Then starter.
Check and change oil regularly. Replace filters (if appropriate). It will run for many years.