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Apple IIGS Ticking Noise

PatrickXT

Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2022
Messages
33
I recently acquired a IIGS and after booting into GS/OS it emits a repetitive clicking/ticking sound from the internal speaker. It also produces tones with pitches that vary depending on exactly what is selected in the GUI. I've found posts elsewhere (Clicking GS, IIgs ticking noise) which describe the behavior and reasons why it may be occurring. What I'm not sure about is whether this is a design limitation of ROM 1 GS systems, present from day 1, or if it's a defect due to some deterioration that's occurred since manufacture. I hear ROM 3 motherboards are unaffected, but can't find an answer as to whether a ROM 1 board's speaker will inevitably click even when functioning 100% properly. I suppose I'll try external speakers. It's an annoying sound, and I would have sought out ROM 3 had I known about it.
 
I've got a ROM 01 and ROM 03 GS. I've never heard any kind of ticking noise from the speaker on the ROM 01 and I've had it for about 12 years.
 
Here's another old newsgroup post describing the issue. I'm experiencing both the ticking that's supposedly a result of polling the drives and the "menu item piano effect" when selecting menu items with the mouse.
 
Maybe I'm just lucky then, because I don't have either of these problems with ny ROM 01 GS. In fact I've added a Byte Boosters DarkSound card to the ROM 01. I'm sorry you're having trouble. Maybe you should see the ROM 01 and buy a ROM 03.
 
Let me ask you guys are you running the original battery or have you snipped it off and are running a new battery?



As far as the audio out jack is concerned the only issue I have had is really quiet audio from the internal speaker CAUSED by a dirty 3.5mm audio jack on the back of the IIGS. Cleaning the rear connector greatly improved audio on the intenral speaker. This is the tool I used to clean the audio jack; I dipped it in Deoxit and it really cleaned it up. Again it is directly tied to the internal speaker as well. https://www.harborfreight.com/airbrush-cleaning-brushes-5-piece-68155.html

I own a bunch of IIgs systems. Mostly Rom 01, but a few Rom 03 as well. None have a ticking issue, nor have any of the ones I have sold off in the past and that has been a couple dozen.
 
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I opened a thread a while back about this issue and I think people thought I was talking about drive poling which isn’t the case. I have 2 GSs, both are rom01s. And both get outfitted with the same 2 3.5 drives (not unidisks) and one 5.25 drive. One machine I upgraded myself. The original rom01 machine is the one that produces the ticking in the speaker running the operating system disk but only until you execute another program through the OS, then it goes away. And ONLY with the OS. Something else I mentioned in my thread I posted was the “in use” light on the 5.25 flickers with the ticking I hear. I’ve removed the 5.25 drive from the chain and the ticking is still there but the lights on the 3.5” drives don’t flicker. Sorry I wish I could have given more to the issue than telling you my symptoms, but evidently I’m not alone with this.
 
Ill ask again. These ticking machines. Are they running the original battery or was it removed and is a new one installed in its place?
 
I opened a thread a while back about this issue and I think people thought I was talking about drive poling which isn’t the case. I have 2 GSs, both are rom01s. And both get outfitted with the same 2 3.5 drives (not unidisks) and one 5.25 drive. One machine I upgraded myself. The original rom01 machine is the one that produces the ticking in the speaker running the operating system disk but only until you execute another program through the OS, then it goes away. And ONLY with the OS. Something else I mentioned in my thread I posted was the “in use” light on the 5.25 flickers with the ticking I hear. I’ve removed the 5.25 drive from the chain and the ticking is still there but the lights on the 3.5” drives don’t flicker. Sorry I wish I could have given more to the issue than telling you my symptoms, but evidently I’m not alone with this.
Check the capacitors in the power supply, it may be that a smoothing cap on the output has failed and is passing some switching noise through.
 
If its not a dirty contact or bad ground. (again I highly recommend a scrubbing of the audip jack) Hojopo is probably correct about the PSU caps.
 
I've posted a video of the noises. It's not as bad with external speakers at normal volume, but even louder with the speaker's sound cranked up (which I turned up on the TV in the video). Even the floppy drive noise is audible through the speakers. How does that work? The ticking, menu tones, and floppy sounds are all audible. It ends with a faint yet high-pitched whine on the error screen. Also I can still hear some of these sounds with both the internal and external speakers disconnected if I put my ear up to the PSU. My unit does not have a battery at the moment.
 
Yes Patrick I can hear the ticking in your video. I don’t recall mine being that loud though but your mic could be magnifying it. As for the capacitors, I honestly can’t say for certain if I fully recapped that PSU, it’s been a while since I was in there. The machine isn’t set up at the moment so I can open it and look easily enough.
 
This is it heard through the TV speakers. It's not as loud with the internal speaker, but loud enough to be a bit irritating. The quietest option seems to be to use external speakers, but with their volume set low and the IIGS's volume up high.
 
I have another GS set up with external speakers. After I check the PSU caps and clean the audio jack (I never had anything plugged into the jack on that machine) and swap systems and try the external speakers.
 
The ticking and "menu piano" is normal bahavior on a ROM 01. The audio circuity is poorly shielded, period. Some stereo sound cards actually make it worse, while some have very little noise. Technically the "raw" output of the Ensoniq DOC chip is balanced output on pins 15 (SIG+) and 16 (SIG-) with pin 19 being the analog ground. One could likely bypass the onboard circuit to clean up the signal.
 
Well opening the PSU up I see all I did was the safety cap and the 220uf at C5. Hojopo, would you be able to tell me which cap you were referring to as a “smoothing cap”. I mean I’m in here now so I might as well just replace the rest of the electrolytics I didn’t do. I was just curious which you were referring to. I’d post a pic but I have trouble posting pictures here for some reason. It’s a standard Aztec 699-0126 unit.
Thanks
 
Well opening the PSU up I see all I did was the safety cap and the 220uf at C5. Hojopo, would you be able to tell me which cap you were referring to as a “smoothing cap”. I mean I’m in here now so I might as well just replace the rest of the electrolytics I didn’t do. I was just curious which you were referring to. I’d post a pic but I have trouble posting pictures here for some reason. It’s a standard Aztec 699-0126 unit.
Thanks
The larger capacitors (1000uf through 2200uf) are the output filter caps, they will connect between the voltage output and ground to smooth out the noise.
 
That’s for that info. Before I started changing caps I used another PSU all together. A known PSU with zero issues. No ticking but the 5.25 drive in use light was still flickering. I loaded a program with sound and no sound at all on the program either. Now the internal speaker isn’t working all. External speakers work fine. I tested the speaker and the speaker is fine. But with the 5.25 light still flickering I’d say the issue is still present with a good PSU. Now I have another problem, why did the speaker that still works just stop working? 😩
 
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