• Please review our updated Terms and Rules here

Attaching DEC Handles, the Right Way

glitch

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2010
Messages
5,051
Location
Central VA
I'm sure most of you DEC hackers have replaced a broken DEC handle or put handles on a protoboard, and did what I've done in the past: use 4-40 screws and nuts, or pop rivets. Well, I finally came across the right tool for the job, an Indestro tubular rivet set! I cut the head off of a rivet on an old Sundstrand CNC control board that was getting scrapped anyway and discovered they're 1/8" hollow brass rivets, but that a M3 x 5mm is close enough. You can buy the M3 rivets online for cheap, I paid $6 USD for 200 rivets, shipped. Here's the writeup:

http://www.glitchwrks.com/2017/04/25/installing-dec-handles

My XYlogics Unibus grant card, with a green handle properly riveted on:

godFPTC.jpg
 
I got suitable handles and rivets (M3 x 5 mm) but no Indestro rivet set used by Glitch in the ancient article above.

What other tool have people used to set these rivets?

Glitch mentions ball bearings in the article on his website, but does not go into detail how to use it.

I would expect there to be a rivet setting tool looking a bit like pliers but I did not find anything suitable in the largest tool shop in Western Australia.

I just find the idea abhorrent to use a hammer anywhere near a precious newly built PDP-8/e board.

Any ideas or suggestions?
 
Last edited:
FiskarsEyeletSettingTool.jpgI've been pretty happy with the Fiskars eyelet setting tool (Amazon) but it takes a little practice to get a clean peen without splitting the rivet since it is slightly oversize. Generally several lighter impacts to set the rivet cleanly.
 
I would think you might get better results with something that applied smooth even pressure as opposed to a sudden impact. A hand operated press of some sort. Maybe something more like this:


When I'm reloading ammunition, I use an RCBS Rock Chucker II. It gives me the fine control to carefully seat primers without crushing them, yet can also develop the force to push an empty .30-06 cartridge case through a 1" pine board. I think with the right press and a bit of practice you could learn how to set brass rivets that look like DEC did them.
 
I would think you might get better results with something that applied smooth even pressure as opposed to a sudden impact. A hand operated press of some sort. Maybe something more like this:


When I'm reloading ammunition, I use an RCBS Rock Chucker II. It gives me the fine control to carefully seat primers without crushing them, yet can also develop the force to push an empty .30-06 cartridge case through a 1" pine board. I think with the right press and a bit of practice you could learn how to set brass rivets that look like DEC did them.
I'd looked on Amazon but missed that one. There are a lot of "rivet presses" there. I might try that one. I just noticed the smallest die is 1/4" The M3 rivets are about 1/8" so I think that's too big.

Here is another hand tool that works with 3mm rivets/grommets https://www.amazon.com/CRAFTMEmore-Grommet-Setting-Applying-Grommets/dp/B07XKK51MN

BTW, here's the link without all the added Amazon tracker bits https://www.amazon.com/QWORK-Eyelet-Grommet-Machine-Grommets/dp/B082D8Y6M6/
 
Last edited:
I agree with DDS that some hand operated tool rather than an impact tool would be better.
Jack's Fiskars Eyelet Setter did a good job on the right hand side of the photo. The one on the left is terrible.
I would expect that something similar to a small ammo reloading press or something resembling pliers would be much more predictable and consistent.
 
I have one of these vintage multi-function tools I imported from the US a few years ago. It's a 'Little Giant' from the (I think) 1960s that does riveting, punching, cutting (by shearing) and 90 degree folding.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/385163192655

It's a nice compact little unit and I use it occasionally. I checked and a DEC handle fits easily in the punch/rivet part.
The tool came with (or had available) a set of different size bit sets. These are replaceable by undoing a screw top and bottom.
However before anyone thinks about buying one, all the ones I've seen (and my own) are only ever fitted with one size of punch/rivet bit, there's no storage on the thing for others.
These of course are nowhere to be had anymore. I knew that before I bought it, planning to turn up some different diameter repops from silver steel (drill rod) and case-harden, but this hasn't happened yet.
 
I have used *soft* pop-rivets. The steel ones want to drag the back right through the plastic handle. I eventually switched to a pair of small nylon zip ties -- easier to install or remove, and they hold just fine. I keep both latches on the component side. (It's also important with the pop rivets to keep the balls on the components side.

Since the topic is "the right way", I've ordered one of these:
which I hope to use with the "press" of my drill press. I'm thinking the depth adjustment will also help avoid splitting.

Vince
 
There are people still using Indestro rivet setting tools for their original purpose, installing new brake linings. Small aircraft still use such brake linings and rivet setting tools are still needed there. Check out the Rapco RA825 rivet set tool. It looks very much like the Indestro #824, but instead of striking the punch with a hammer, you turn a handle to more slowly apply pressure with the punch and spread out the end of the rivet.

Rapco RA825: https://www.rapcoinc.com/brake_rivet_tool.asp
One seller that has the RA825 at $51.25 in stock: https://skysupplyusa.com/brake-rivet-tool-1/
Another vendor at $48.95: https://www.aircraftsupply.com/ra825.html
Another at $43.50: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/RapcoBrake.php

I have both an Indestro #824 and a Rapco RA825 and aside from the method of applying pressure (striking with a hammer vs turning a handle) they both are extremely similar. But the RA825 is made for installing 5/32" (0.156") diameter tubular rivets and the Indestro #824 is made for slightly smaller 1/8" (0.125") tubular rivets. The M3 tubular rivets Glitch used are 3mm (0.11811") tubular rivets. I don't know if the RA825 is too large to do a good job on 1/8" rivets or on the even smaller diameter M3 rivets.

By the way, M3x5mm tubular brass rivets are very available via eBay and very inexpensive.
 
This also looks promising.
keystone staker
When I think "staking" I think of a process used to keep a bolt or nut from vibrating loose. The tool is actually a punch shaped like a small cold chisel. And the results look like these images of an AR15/M16/M4 bolt carrier key mounting bolts staked per MilSpec.

rra-cmt-staking.jpg
 
Try an eBay search for "824 rivet set". Right now there are 3 of the Indestro units (but one is listed as "industrial" instead of Indestro).in the search results along with a slightly different design from a different company 824 rivet set. By the way, an 1/8" tubular rivet is also known as a #4 tubular rivet, and the 4 at the end of the 824 model numbers seems to indicate is is a rivet set tool for #4 rivets.

I think old tractor brake linings were often installed using 1/8" #4 tubular rivets. There are many, many new $40 to $60 brake rivet sets on eBay, Amazon, and here: https://www.steinertractor.com/MIS1131-Brake-Riveting-Tool . I think if you called Steiner Tractor and asked them if that tool will set 1/8" diameter tubular rivets, they can give you a straightforward yes or no.
 
Another option, although not "the right way" is one I came up with. I 3D printed some handles and made the hole the correct size to be tapped. The idea is to use a nylon bolt from the PCB side to hold the handle in place. Cutoff the nylon bolt and then sand flush on the back side. A drop of CA would lock into place permanently.
 
Back
Top