blinking lights atemps

[daver2]

Which is why I think you need to check your SN74LS138 pins 4 and 6 out.

Pin 4 is active LOW (so should be wired to 0V) and pin 6 is active HIGH (so should be wired to +5V.

It is always preferable to pull active HIGH logic signal up using a 1k resistor rather than directly connecting it directly to +5V.

Dave

 

[1ajs]

I haven't tested anything yet so it's easy to move the wires also orderd a bunch of 6.3v bulbs similar style to the ones on this panel so I'll swap em all out to be the same. And then run tests as some got broken during the chaos this summer some how.

 

[Istarian]

I haven't tested anything yet so it's easy to move the wires also orderd a bunch of 6.3v bulbs similar style to the ones on this panel so I'll swap em all out to be the same. And then run tests as some got broken during the chaos this summer some how.

Unless the bulbs themselves are smashed or you can clearly see that the filament is no longer in one piece you might want to setup a test rig. You could just have corroded sockets or contacts and the internal wiring could have come loose or broken.

 

[1ajs]

Unless the bulbs themselves are smashed or you can clearly see that the filament is no longer in one piece you might want to setup a test rig. You could just have corroded sockets or contacts and the internal wiring could have come loose or broken.

Bunch for smashed this summer woops.
As for the circut a few had died on me during testing last spring as well.

It has a simple circut on the PCB with the harness still attached. As for my other panels who knows haven't dug into them yet starting with this one as it's the simplist one I have.

Got 2 uyk 23 8i m Philips p856 Nova clone and my 2 Soviet big irons to figure out next