PDP-8/E Switch Colors for 3D Printing

[BitWiz]

I am attempting to match the PDP-8 front panel switch colors using Vince's 3D model. I have been able to print them quite well (with typical 3d banding) on my Prusa MK3S+ with a .4mm nozzle. I have a 0.25mm nozzle i'm tempted to try using.

I am hoping to match the actual standard PDP-8/E (Not LAB-8/E or the Blue and Red PDP-8/E) colors.

I noticed on my front panel the deposit switch is a different color than the other yellow switches. Is this my bad eyes or is it like that on all yellow/orange 8/E's?

I don't want to wind up ordering 3 or 4 different colors of each switch until I find good matching colors. So do any of you know where I can get filaments that are a good color match to the actual PDP-8/E.

I am also going to try printing the switch on the resin printer at work just to see how it comes out.

If I can match the color closely enough I'm thinking of making sets of switches available at a reasonable price.

Thanks in advance,

Mike

 

[vrs42]

I am hoping to match the actual standard PDP-8/E (Not LAB-8/E or the Blue and Red PDP-8/E) colors.

I noticed on my front panel the deposit switch is a different color than the other yellow switches. Is this my bad eyes or is it like that on all yellow/orange 8/E's?

The topic's been discussed a few times, and there are tables of DEC colors, etc.

The first and hardest thing is to appreciate how incredibly difficult a topic color matching really is. Even in a constrained universe of known lighting, etc., materials vary in translucency, gloss, etc.

The colors of original switches also varied some by batch, and since then they've aged differently over time, so even vintage switches don't always match well, as you note.

What is feasible is to get something "in the ball park", and for that, I think a cadmium yellow isn't bad, and I've even (once) seen a darker, more saturated (sorta burnt looking) cadmium shade that approximated the orange.

Easier would be to print batches of matched switches (maybe a couple extra of each color per batch), so that they're all matching, even if they are only close enough to the original color. that people don't notice. It's a *lot* easier when there isn't an original present to make the mismatch conspicuous.

As for specific filaments, that's outside my expertise, and I imagine it changes year to year.

Vince

 

[BitWiz]

The topic's been discussed a few times, and there are tables of DEC colors, etc.

The first and hardest thing is to appreciate how incredibly difficult a topic color matching really is. Even in a constrained universe of known lighting, etc., materials vary in translucency, gloss, etc.

The colors of original switches also varied some by batch, and since then they've aged differently over time, so even vintage switches don't always match well, as you note.

What is feasible is to get something "in the ball park", and for that, I think a cadmium yellow isn't bad, and I've even (once) seen a darker, more saturated (sorta burnt looking) cadmium shade that approximated the orange.

Easier would be to print batches of matched switches (maybe a couple extra of each color per batch), so that they're all matching, even if they are only close enough to the original color. that people don't notice. It's a *lot* easier when there isn't an original present to make the mismatch conspicuous.

As for specific filaments, that's outside my expertise, and I imagine it changes year to year.

Vince

Vince,

Thanks for the suggestion. I have a yellow that is very close but it is slighty translucent and shiny so it doesn't have the matte look of the switches.

I will try several colors and see what I can find.

I may also try printing with a 0.25mm nozzle instead of the 0.40mm standard one.

Thanks again,

Mike

 

[DougIngraham]

I also did a switch paddle model which I uploaded to thingiverse. As part of that package I modeled a jig for holding a broken switch paddle in place so you can use a drill press or vertical mill to drill out the broken off pins. I then used 1/16" acrylic rod to replace the pins. Acrylic is a good choice for this because it will break in a similar manner to the original pins and not damage the switch hinge points. You can of course use whatever you want if you are not concerned about breaking the mechanism. I found the acrylic rod at a local craft store. You cut it off a little long and sand to length. A drop of superglue will hold it in place. I did also try hardwood dowel, carbon fiber rod stock, and piano wire. The hardwood dowel was my second choice as it was easy to work with but I don't think it would hold up if you actually use the front panel switches. The carbon fiber rod is unpleasant to work with. The ends tend to fray. It is also somewhat abrasive and might eventually hog out the hinge points. The piano wire was cut to length and then I used a grinder to finish the ends. The acrylic was the easiest to work with overall.

The pins are the hardest thing to print so I didn't bother on my model. I print an undersized hole and then use the Jig to drill it out for the acrylic rod.

If you don't have all the broken switch paddles to repair your best bet is to pick colors that are close to the graphics on your front panel. You can eyeball this and it will be good enough. Print the parts with the top surface of the paddle facing the print bed. I used a clean heated glass bed and rotated the parts 45 degrees so the fill pattern aligns with the length of the switch. You get a cool looking part that does not really look 3D printed on the side you look at all the time.

Vince mentions all the reasons why you can't mix old paddles with ones you print. You often can't even always use paddles from different machines because the colors no longer or never did match. And the paddle colors are only a ballpark match for the front panel colors.