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Removing yellowing from plastics - Part 2

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Merlin

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The original thread is over 200 posts long now and getting to be a heavy read for some, so Lorne and I thought it was best that we start a new thread here, with a "Story So Far" summary, before we start more experiments.

So, what has been discovered and learned so far?

1. We have learned that a magic concoction has been created that can reverse the years of yellowing of plastics, caused by the brominated flame retardants (which were added to the plastic when it was a masterbatch) migrating to the surface of the plastic and attracting oxygen molecules which become attached by a co-ordinate bond.

2. Bromine molecules are susceptible to ultra-violet light, in that chemical bonds involving bromine molecules can become destabilised if irradiated by UV light. This is what we are exploiting to remove the oxygen molecule from the brominated flame retardant.

3. The yellowing can be reversed to a degree by immersing parts in hydrogen peroxide or "Oxy" on their own, however, on their own they don't do that much; what is needed is a chemical called TAED (tetra acetyl ethylene diamine), which is a chemical found in the "Oxy" type laundry boosters. Why is this useful? It's useful because it catalyses perborates and percarbonates in the "Oxy" to produce peroxides; it can also catalyse hydrogen peroxide, which is exactly what we want. This is what makes the mixture much more potent.

4. The optimum mixture and conditions for reversing yellowing of plastics seems to be the following:-

A) Hydrogen peroxide solution, the strongest you can lay hands on;
B) UV light, either as sunlight or a UV lamp;
C) Approx 1/4 teaspoonful per gallon of "Oxy" laundry booster.

Parts immersed in this mixture will have the yellowing reversed in six to eight hours on average. Severe yellowing may take longer but it will only be a matter of a day or two. The mixture once made will last about four days before all of the peroxide is spent.

5. A more recent development is that the mixture can be made into a gel. Initial tests with Xanthan Gum added to the original mixture have shown that it can be made into a thicker material which can be brushed onto surfaces. This mixture foams up but still removes the yellowing when put under UV light, and can remove yellowing in four to six hours. This method also drastically cuts down on the amount of liquid required and means large areas can be treated at a relatively low cost. Other thickeners such as corn starch, hydroxy ethyl cellulose, wallpaper paste, latex or similar inert thickener may also work, however, tests are in the early stages, feel free to try some of these and report back if they work.

6. Recent tests by Lorne have shown that powdered hair bleach and hydrogen peroxide solution can give a similar effect to the original "Oxy" mixture, however, there may be side effects associated with using this material; early tests have seen adverse effects on paint and stickers may also be affected by this product. The original "Oxy" mixture does not affect paint or stickers, unless the stickers are held on with a water based glue or are paper stickers.

7. If you are planning to do this in a hot climate, please be aware that this mixture will heat up during the day. Lorne is in Arizona and found that temperatures in excess of 100F (38C) and beyond were encountered, which caused some warping and distortion of large pieces. If this is the case where you live, always add the component to a cold mixture and check the temperature during the day.

We will add to this original post in the thread as we learn more. If you wish to read the original thread, it's here:-

http://www.vintage-computer.com/vcforum/showthread.php?t=11877

The story continues.........
 
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@ Merlin
Well done.
You might want to edit that first post, to add a link to the part 1 thread, in case someone stumbles across this new post and wants to delve further into what we've learned.

Now, with regard to the last post in Part 1, I think the Umpire blew the call by calling a Strike before the ball even reached the plate. (It's not a Home Run, but it's at least a Ball).

Here's the lastest (drastic) results - done in three hours this morning:

I think this is a good start for this new thread.
(The Televideo was originally black and white).

Before:
Televideo 925 - before.jpg
Gutted and ready to go:
Televideo 925 - gutted.jpg
Keyboard before:
TV925 keyboard - before.jpg
Keyboard done:
Televideo 925 - keyboard done.jpg
For comparison (processing the balance of the case will be done in the next week):
Televideo 925 - keyboard done & case.jpg
 
@ Lorne

Awesome results! Is that with the Xanthan Gum mix?

Nope - this was with the "Strike" powdered bleach mix. It's sticks real good to the verticals which is what I'll need, to do the rest of the case.
We'll work on the XG mix to see if we can't thinken it up and make it stickier.
(The PB mix smells much better than the XG mix though) :)
 
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Wow. I shoud realy considering doing this with my Amiga 500. It looks like it has been in the sun for YEARS (it is nearly plain yellow with a hint of grey).

However, I neither got the time or oppertunity to do it, because of homework, ain't old enough (16 years) to handle the kind of chemicals used, ech...
 
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Wow. I shoud realy considering doing this with my Amiga 500. It looks like it has been in the sun for YEARS (it is nearly plain yellow with a hint of grey).

However, I neither got the time or oppertunity to do it, because of homework, ain't old enough (16 years) to handle the kind of chemicals used, ech...

Hey, I didn't know there was another 16 year old on the forum! I'll have to remember that. Granted we aren't old enough to handle that stuff, the internet is a wonderful thing and knows no age. That, or have an older family member get the for you.

So far so great on this de-yellowing stuff. I'll the people who said you cant do it will have to eat their words with a fork and spoon! May not be of much help, but try either boosting the XG in the mixture or adding a thickening agent--like flour.

--Jack
 
@ Yzzerdd

That is exactly the current thinking, I am going to try some experiments with Xanthan Gum this weekend. I've got some Kelzan D and also some hydroxy ethyl cellulose to play with. I think the problem with the XG is getting it to disperse as it can be difficult to mix in and can go like semolina; a small amount of glycol or glycerine may help. I'll know more once I've done some kitchen chemistry :mrgreen:.

Wallpaper paste is actually starch, which is something I will also try out to see if it works.

@ Lorne

I am a bit concerned about the effect the hair bleach had on the black component you tested and also the keys on the keyboard as pictured above (assuming you treated the keys). The 'bloom' on the dark plastic suggests that some kind of chemical attack on the surface has occurred, the effect you saw on paint isn't good either, escpecially for those with screen printed logos on cases, keyboards etc. We'll need to watch out for this going forwards. It doesn't happen with the original mix, so my educated guess is that it's the solvents in the hair bleach causing this.
 
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With regards to the "gums/sticky stuff" being used for the paste(s), I assume care would have to be taken that it's something that doesn't "set" and therefore suddenly cannot be removed easily?

Tez
 
Absolutely Tezza, that's why I am making some recommendations on what to try. Anything you add to thicken the mix must be readily soluble or at least water washable; for instance, if you tried adding PVA to the mixture, it might thicken up, but PVA is a strong adhesive, which is something we don't want.

By the term "sticky", we mean a tacky gel, which can easily cling to a vertical surface without running off. Wallpaper paste is an ideal analogy, due to the fact that even if it's dried it can readily re-dissolve in water to remove it, otherwise wallpaper would be a permanent thing...

Think of a hair gel or mayonnaise type consistency, that is exactly what we are aiming for. It doesn't flow like a liquid yet a blob won't drop from your fingers if you hold it upside down.

I hope I am making myself clear here, some of the terms can be misleading. Please shout up if I am using chemistry terms you don't understand, I am happy to explain them.
 
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With regards to the "gums/sticky stuff" being used for the paste(s), I assume care would have to be taken that it's something that doesn't "set" and therefore suddenly cannot be removed easily?

Tez

The PB mix that I've been using, does dry after about two hours in the heat/sun. It dries sort of solid on top, but is still moist below. It doesn't dry and attach itself to the plastic - you can easily move chunks of it around, like icebergs on the water. I simply hose off the part, dry it and put on another application (if it needs it).
 
@ Lorne and Tezza

Skinning over of the applied gel / foam / whatever is good, as it slows down the drying process.

I'm going to pick up a cheap hand stick blender this weekend and make a batch using xanthan gum, the stick blender should give a much better dispersion. Don't worry if you use something like this and it looks thin after blending; the viscosity will develop as the gum absorbs water. A mix of around 1% of the gum should give a thick mixture.

I'll take some pictures this weekend as I prepare some mixture to treat an old breadbox C64 that badly needs treating.
 
Thanks Lorne, I got the MSDS, not that it said anything that we hadn't already figured out from the label. To be honest, I expected more on the MSDS under the New Jersey Right to Know Act, seeing as they are a New Joysey (sic) company but hey, there are lies, damned lies and MSDS sheets, take it from one who knows, they only declare what they have to so that us chemist types can't work out what's in it (or so they think LOL). I write MSDS sheets as part of my job, so I can play the game :mrgreen:.....
 
OK,

I have a test in progress involving a 1985 'breadbox' Commodore 64 that is browner than George Hamilton / Dale Winton / David Dickenson / insert overtanned celebrity here.

My mixture is:-

1 pint 35% H2O2
1 teaspoonful xanthan gum (Kelzan D to be precise)
1/2 teaspoonful 'Vanish Oxy Action Plus'
I teaspoonful glycerine

I dispersed the gum in the glycerine and peroxide using a food mixer. I let the mixture rest for an hour so that the gum could soak in. This made a thick mixture with a few lumps but not that many after one hour and it looked like wallpaper paste.

I then activated the mix by stirring in the 'Oxy', brushed on a thick coat of the mixture and stuck it under a UV lamp. The mix stuck to vertical surfaces but as it foamed up it dripped. I thought it might, so used a cat litter tray to catch any drips.

I am taking pictures before, at 2 hour intervals during, and after, so that some yardsticks will be in place as to how long severe yellowing takes to reverse. I am only doing half so the 'before' and 'after' difference should be really striking.

I'm 2 hours in tonight and I should be finished tomorrow, stay tuned.....

Edit: 11pm and I am four hours into the test. I'll take some photos in the morning, then one more treatment and I should be finished.
 
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I'm looking forward to the results of this, as the C64 isn't light grey/white as most of the other plastics you and Lorne have worked on so far. You may end up with a C64G coloured case! :-D

By the way, earlier today I spotted a loose Amiga 500 on eBay that either was photographed under extremely poor conditions, or was in DIRE need of a H2O2 bath. The term "cheese yellow" has never been more fitting, and although I've seen some badly yellowed Amigas, that one took the prize. However I think the photo had skewed colours to make it look more yellow than it really was.
 
The results......

I've posted the results of how the gel foams up, it is quite controllable. The pictures taken after two, four and six hours show how the yellowing is gradually removed. The case could probably do with another dose but this is enough to show that even severe discolouring can be reversed in quite a short space of time.

Impressive, huh?

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It seems that six to eight hours is enough to reverse even severe discolouring using the gel version.

:mrgreen:
 
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Looks good Merlin.
Was your solution sticky enough to stay on large vertical sections?
Did you reapply or add any solution between photos?
 
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