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SMD component red loctite?

VERAULT

VERAULT

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Jan 30, 2012
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On some board I have worked on I have found when removing SMD components a dried tiny spot of what appears to be something like red loctite. It seems its used to secure the component in place before soldering/wave soldering. Does anyone know where I can easily find a small amount?
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Why not just use what most hobbyists use, bluetack? Or some Kapton tape.
 
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Are you planning on using a Hot Air soldering station or the standard Iron?
Solder Paste or Flux and Rosin Core Solder?


Larry
 
ldkraemer said:
Are you planning on using a Hot Air soldering station or the standard Iron?
Solder Paste or Flux and Rosin Core Solder?


Larry
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Both... And again Flux and rosin core solder. Ill do a couple of boards and find out which methods work on these Ics.

Honestly Im not concerned about the soldering aspect of SMD. I have done SMD work before.. ITs just the narrow pitch of the ics have me wanting to lock them down into position before I do the soldering.

The ICs in question being a AS6C8016-55ZIN. I feel If I "glue them down" so to speak, so they are lined to the pads it will be alot easier.
 
 
I've hand soldered a LOT of TSOP II's with e=0.800 packages by hand and can't understand why you'd want to lock them down first. With proper PCB footprints there shouldn't be any issues with e>=0.500 and either HASL or ENIG finishes.

First tack a corner pin and verify it's alignment. Next comes the pin at the opposite end on the same side followed by a pin near the center of the opposite side. After that, just do all remaining pins.

The first and second pin sequence allow for easy re-heating / movement if required, while the third pin on the opposite side prevents that side from lifting. Assuming a static free environment, you can actually use your finger(s) to hold these relatively large devices in position without ever touching the pins. I use liquid flux and a BIT of solder on the first 3 pins followed by 0.015" Multicore solder on the remaining pins. This technique has worked for me on hundreds of TSOP II's without any issues.
 
WSM said:
I've hand soldered a LOT of TSOP II's with e=0.800 packages by hand and can't understand why you'd want to lock them down first.
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Because I do. Im happy you have a way you like. I didn't ask you about your method however. Im not looking for help soldering. Im looking for info on the aforementioned bonding solutions. If you think those things are a silly waste of time, so be it. Its a moot point.

We all have preferences. Thats not what this is about. I just want to know more about a product I am unfamiliar with.

Nowhere in this thread did I ask for any advice or help soldering. Im not trying to sound pompous, but it seems the original question has gotten muddied. Im simply looking for info on the solutions. I'd love to hear from someone who uses them as well.
 
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This thread had expanded from a "What is it?" to talking about a specific IC and hot air / hand soldering.

I'm well aware that we all have our own soldering techniques and that's a good thing. Likewise I understand the need for adhesives when reflowing PCBs with heavy SMDs on both sides or using hot air with a high flow rate.

There are many hobbyists who either avoid SMT or are relative newbies learning new techniques from threads like this. It is my belief they should be aware there are very effective KISS soldering techniques for the stated IC that don't require the use of specialized adhesives, UV sources, etc. That's all.
 
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WSM said:
There are many hobbyists who either avoid SMT or are relative newbies learning new techniques from threads like this. It is my belief they should be aware there are very effective KISS soldering techniques for the stated IC that don't require the use of specialized adhesives, UV sources, etc. That's all.
Click to expand...

I 100% agree. And speaking about techniques.... The only way to learn a new skill is to try it out. It could go either way. I could buy it, use it once and find out its not for me. Or I could try it and say "where has this been all my life?". I dont know until I give it a try. So thats what I want to do. Noone should be afraid to try things in the industry like this. And sure I agree noone needs this. Noone needs capacitor ESR meters, yet everyone seems to flash them around as a badge of honor for some reason.

Its like that new forum member who joins, buys all this expensive soldering gear before even learning to solder.. then realizes hes no good at it and the expensive gear didnt help. Sometimes the bare essentials are all you need. And I have been there and done that. I just want to give this a try. Im getting older. My eyes arent what they used to be and sometimes my hands arent precise like I need them to be either. If It could hold something in place for me.. whats the harm?
 
FWIW, I've sometimes resorted to tacking down an itsy-bitsy IC or component using a dab of clear nail polish. It tacks the component down securely when dry, but isn't tenacious enough to interfere with removal in those "ogodtobadjoe" times.
 
So I did get a bottle of that Bearly Art Precision Craft Glue and tested it out on the smt IC. Nothing notable. It works. Not sure how long it took to dry as I was called away - but maybe 15 min or less. It held while I soldered it and when I butchered neighboring components (one of the SMT resistors was claimed by a black hole, as sometimes happens). I saved a couple of $$ after I put it in my list (special flash sale - yeah, ok). Maybe it is just expensive Elmer's but I did like the precision applicators. I will probably use it on occasion.

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syzygy said:
So I did get a bottle of that Bearly Art Precision Craft Glue and tested it out on the smt IC. Nothing notable. It works. Not sure how long it took to dry as I was called away - but maybe 15 min or less. It held while I soldered it and when I butchered neighboring components (one of the SMT resistors was claimed by a black hole, as sometimes happens). I saved a couple of $$ after I put it in my list (special flash sale - yeah, ok). Maybe it is just expensive Elmer's but I did like the precision applicators. I will probably use it on occasion.

View attachment 1296046

View attachment 1296047
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Supposedly the red stuff (I realize there are variants), some can do heat and UV curing. Im curious about The UV curing as they say it cures extremely fast. You can use an LED UV flashlight. That interests me.
 
VERAULT said:
Supposedly the red stuff (I realize there are variants), some can do heat and UV curing. Im curious about The UV curing as they say it cures extremely fast. You can use an LED UV flashlight. That interests me.
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Yeah, I was looking at one of those as well...with the flashlight included . The sense I get is that the 'red stuff' is especially nice for mounting components on both sides of the board with only one trip to the oven, which I don't really need - but I get that you wouldn't have to use it that way. Please keep us posted if you do end up trying something.
 
syzygy said:
Yeah, I was looking at one of those as well...with the flashlight included . The sense I get is that the 'red stuff' is especially nice for mounting components on both sides of the board with only one trip to the oven, which I don't really need - but I get that you wouldn't have to use it that way. Please keep us posted if you do end up trying something.
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Total Boat resin. Thats just bone stock epoxy. I watched some sculpture channels on youtube that use it specifically as an art medium. I do think it has fast UV curing as I have seen them do tiny touch ups with a uv flash light. Plus it mentions 2 to 10 minutes on the jar. Im looking for something with a relatively rapid cure.
 
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Your dentist should be using UV cure fillings by now. His work light switches from white LED to yellow/amber when it does this because there is evidently enough near-UV in the white LEDs to interfere with the application.

How to you UV cure a glue that's located underneath the SMD component? Transparent components or PCB?
 
Chuck(G) said:
Your dentist should be using UV cure fillings by now. His work light switches from white LED to yellow/amber when it does this because there is evidently enough near-UV in the white LEDs to interfere with the application.

How to you UV cure a glue that's located underneath the SMD component? Transparent components or PCB?
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I eat alot of tuna, I solder all the time.. My fillings are made of mercury amalgum.... Im filled with heavy metals at this point..

I was wondering the same thing but look at the photo at the top in post #1. You put dabs on the ends if you want to cure with UV so they are exposed.
 
I do like using glue to affix the SMT ICs and probably will continue using that.

Just two cents of thread drift and self-indulgence. I finished that little project board and the SMT LEDs, capacitors and resistors were a PITA...as usual. What I have done in the past is used a low temp. solder paste that has enough grip to keep things in place - then I would use a hot air gun with one hand and let me use the other to hold the component down with a tool.

In this case, when I went to the solder paste, I found that it had dried up. I had to use Chip-Quick flux and wire solder and an iron. This does not leave a hand free to hold the component so it puts a lot of stress on these old hands and eyes.

BUT, I managed - no soldering awards in my future.....

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...BUT it worked!

I will confess, however, that the original R2 bounced when I was carelessly removing it from the strip. Naturally, it fell on the carpeted floor where it was immediately swallowed by the black hole that exists there. I trust that I am not only one with such a black hole.
 
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