• Please review our updated Terms and Rules here

The Sol Prototype Project

I saw that Sol-20 board for sale too. I noticed that somebody in the past had fitted a non standard D-25 connector. The original ones are still available on ebay if you hunt around, they had a relatively long reach from the position of their pins to the actual connector shell. A similar design was used on the serial connector on the Votrax type & talk and I had to find one for the replica. And it looks like two of the DIP switches have been replaced, probably a good thing. The original pale blue CTS dip switches in my Sol were intermittent and I replaced them with Omron low profile types in sockets. Watch out for the errors in the manual relating to the DIP switches and baud rate settings. The long job you have here is cleaning all the individual IC pins, and testing every socket claw with a dummy IC pin. I found quite a few damaged socket claws in my machine, and if not fixed it creates a minefield of intermittent faults, much like the DIP switches. You are fortunate though, most of the sockets do not appear to be the TI type, but the more reliable dual wipe type resembling a modern socket design. Though it is possible they are single wipe. The character ROM might be in a TI socket.

Your board seems to have had a good number of mods on the bottom, by the look of the wiring.

I collected a number of those white ceramic NEC 8080's as I thought they looked quite pretty, but somebody mentioned they had an odd quirk compared with the Intel IC, but I cannot recall what that was. Or maybe it was the NEC 8088 that had the quirk.

I also noted that somebody had installed non-standard relays for the tape motor control on your board. Probably they got annoyed with the original DIL relays contacts sticking together leaving the motor stuck on. This happens because in most tape units there is a filter capacitor in parallel with the motor and the surge currents charging that cause the problem. PT ameliorated this later by placing resistors in series with the contacts, as a mod, to limit the current, but not ideal as that limits the motor starting torque. In my machine I used new DIL relays in sockets, but I modified my tape decks with a driver transistor (edit typo) added to the motor circuit to reduce the relay contact current that way. (see end of article)

I wrote a detailed article on the Sol's cassette interface because I found the design of it very interesting and it is an analog meets digital circuit. It has a very simple and effective amplitude levelling circuit at its input using a jFet:

 
Last edited:
I saw that Sol-20 board for sale too. I noticed that somebody in the past had fitted a non standard D-25 connector. The original ones are still available on ebay if you hunt around, they had a relatively long reach from the position of their pins to the actual connector shell. A similar design was used on the serial connector on the Votrax type & talk and I had to find one for the replica. And it looks like two of the DIP switches have been replaced, probably a good thing. The original pale blue CTS dip switches in my Sol were intermittent and I replaced them with Omron low profile types in sockets. Watch out for the errors in the manual relating to the DIP switches and baud rate settings. The long job you have here is cleaning all the individual IC pins, and testing every socket claw with a dummy IC pin. I found quite a few damaged socket claws in my machine, and if not fixed it creates a minefield of intermittent faults, much like the DIP switches. You are fortunate though, most of the sockets do not appear to be the TI type, but the more reliable dual wipe type resembling a modern socket design. Though it is possible they are single wipe. The character ROM might be in a TI socket.

Your board seems to have had a good number of mods on the bottom, by the look of the wiring.

I collected a number of those white ceramic NEC 8080's as I thought they looked quite pretty, but somebody mentioned they had an odd quirk compared with the Intel IC, but I cannot recall what that was.

Hi,

I've already found out that most of those wires don't belong on a Sol-20 main board. Although I have high-resolution photos, I'm going to document them just in case they fix open traces on the board.

The big yellow wire is the recommended GND to the 8T97's ... That is a keeper.

I wish there was a "spray-on" contact cleaner I could just spray over the chip pins like WD-40 that penetrates and cleans.

My first task is to replace those broken capacitors. I have a bunch on order, so it might be a few weeks before I get them and get started.

I was thinking I would like to unsolder the rainbow cables and add connectors to the board and cables. The composite video OUT jack is half-off the board so I'm going to pull it and either add a connector header there or just solder two shielded wires to the board to run the composite video to a composite video IN to VGA OUT converter so I can use a cheap VGA LCD display with the computer. I get nice VGA monitors from the local thrift store usually $3 or less.

I keep thinking that since I have the board out in the open, I should pull all the chips and get a high-resolution scan of the board, but my flat bed scanner only does standard paper size scans. I wish I had a larger scanner (about 45cm x 60cm).

I'm still tweaking my cabinet design, and building up a parts list for DigiKey.



.
 
WD-40 is not suitable, but once the chip pins have been cleaned and are free from surface oxides, you can lubricate the pins with Inox's MX-3.
 
WD-40 is not suitable, but once the chip pins have been cleaned and are free from surface oxides, you can lubricate the pins with Inox's MX-3.

Hi,

I don't plan to use WD-40, I just want a cleaner that can penetrate like WD-40.

I don't want to lubricate the pins either, I just want to be sure there is a good connections from the chip PINs to the sockets.

I don't know the best solution yet, this is something I need to explore more.



.
 
How bout Deoxit shield and cleaner? It doesnt have the amout of lube like regular deoxit... and doesn't hurt plastics either.

 
Hi,

I don't plan to use WD-40, I just want a cleaner that can penetrate like WD-40.

I don't want to lubricate the pins either,



.
You might have misunderstood.

The purpose of the lubrication, it is not for cleaning, that is a separate process and for the severely oxidized pins it involves scraping the surface oxides (which are insulators) off the IC pin with a rectangular edge tool and then smoothing them down with 2000 grade paper.

The point of the lubrication is twofold, one is that it helps prevent future oxidation of the cleaned surfaces and two it helps prevent socket damage and wear to the socket if the IC has to be removed a few times during repairs. TI sockets do very poorly with this and wear out very quickly without lubrication, as the surface area of contact on the sides of the pins is very small. But for lubrication to work well it has to be a very low vapor pressure high purity long lasting oil, which mx-3 is and not accelerate corrosion on some surfaces either, which wd-40 can.

You might be interested in these experiments I did applying various products to copper and brass sheet. If you were enthusiastic to find a product suited to IC sockets & pins yourself, you could repeat these experiments:


There is no such thing as a single product you can just spray on that will successfully both clean lubricate and protect the pins of the vintage IC and socket. That is a fantasy, which only seems plausible to those shy of a lot of hard work.

While Deoxit products can work for gold plated surfaces with minimal surface corrosion, this is not the case for the type of corrosion & oxidation and sometimes rust (TI IC steel pins) that you get on vintage IC pins from the 1970's. Every single pin on each IC may need individual attention and with the number of IC's on the board, this adds up, it took me a couple of days to process all of them on my Sol, but it was worth it as I have had no intermittent faults due to bad connections, though I had a couple of IC's spontaneously fail. One on the motherboard and one in the keyboard.

Like I said though, it is fortunate that most of your sockets are not the TI type, many SOL-20's had all TI sockets.
 
Last edited:
You might have misunderstood.

The purpose of the lubrication, it is not for cleaning, that is a separate process and for the severely oxidized pins it involves scraping the surface oxides (which are insulators) off the IC pin with a rectangular edge tool and then smoothing them down with 2000 grade paper.

The point of the lubrication is twofold, one is that it helps prevent future oxidation of the cleaned surfaces and two it helps prevent socket damage and wear to the socket if the IC has to be removed a few times during repairs. TI sockets do very poorly with this and wear out very quickly without lubrication, as the surface area of contact on the sides of the pins is very small. But for lubrication to work well it has to be a very low vapor pressure high purity long lasting oil, which mx-3 is and not accelerate corrosion on some surfaces either, which wd-40 can.

You might be interested in these experiments I did applying various products to copper and brass sheet. If you were enthusiastic to find a product suited to IC sockets & pins yourself, you could repeat these experiments:


There is no such thing as a single product you can just spray on that will successfully both clean lubricate and protect the pins of the vintage IC and socket. That is a fantasy, which only seems plausible to those shy of a lot of hard work.

While Deoxit products can work for gold plated surfaces with minimal surface corrosion, this is not the case for the type of corrosion & oxidation and sometimes rust (TI IC steel pins) that you get on vintage IC pins from the 1970's. Every single pin on each IC may need individual attention and with the number of IC's on the board, this adds up, it took me a couple of days to process all of them on my Sol, but it was worth it as I have had no intermittent faults due to bad connections, though I had a couple of IC's spontaneously fail. One on the motherboard and one in the keyboard.

Like I said though, it is fortunate that most of your sockets are not the TI type, many SOL-20's had all TI sockets.

Hi,

I've been trying to find "Deoxit shield and cleaner" on Google, but the results never get to a product of that name ??? Even on the Craig Labs website it doesn't come up, and they don't display a single product, but a long list of different plaster stuff.



.
 
Like I say, I don't use a single product for vintage IC DIL sockets and IC pins. Once the oxides have been manually removed (as I described), I do the cleaning with CRC's CO contact cleaner, which leaves no residue, after that I add the MX-3. After decades of working with corroded IC socket connections, I have found this to be the better method. But I don't do this with Gold plated contacts. In their case I use just the CO contact cleaner and the most abrasive force, to remove the clear surface insulating film is contact cleaner soaked A4 paper, never anything more abrasive than that. This is less abrasive than a pencil rubber that some people use, I have examined the surface with a binocular microscope. Caig chemicals pro-gold can help with these. Generally sliding gold contacts on switches and edge connectors "self clean" the surface film and give less trouble, so a few insertions and removal with the contact cleaner present is more than enough. The main problem comes with touching gold contacts on some designs of edge connector, in DIP switches, Scope Attenuators, ZIF sockets for CPU's, target electrodes on single tube color cameras etc. I have developed methods to clean all those touching Gold surface cases, except that is the aged DIP switches which have a touching design are better replaced.
 
Last edited:
I've been trying to find "Deoxit shield and cleaner" on Google, but the results never get to a product of that name ??? Even on the Craig Labs website it doesn't come up, and they don't display a single product, but a long list of different plaster stuff.
For what it's worth, this is what I got after it was mentioned in the comments of an Adrian stream a few weeks ago to use instead of the spray can. I haven't had a chance to use it yet.

 
For what it's worth, this is what I got after it was mentioned in the comments of an Adrian stream a few weeks ago to use instead of the spray can. I haven't had a chance to use it yet.


That is Deoxit D100L.

You clearly didn't bother to read the article I posted. Deoxit D100L chemically attacks copper. Copper dissolves into this solution to create a blue-green solution, you can see this on the photo on page 3 of the article. On the other hand Deoxit G100L does not do this.

The problem is with the plethora of products out there to try, people give them a punt. There is never any control of untreated vs treated metal, they don't know what the metal or surface would have been like if they had applied nothing. Especially after a month or two goes by. Then, if they seem to "like it" they post reviews & make recommendations on social media, after performing no experiments with controls. These are nothing more than worthless testimonials. It is a good thing Medicine does not conduct research this way, or there would be many dead patients.

I would encourage you to ignore you tube videos, streams and blogs.

Try to find out yourself if a product really is beneficial on any type of metal you intend to apply it to, by performing experiments on the clean base metal of interest and inspecting it, compared to the untreated metal areas after about a month at least. You might be able to settle on a good product this way and have some logical basis for using it.
 
That is Deoxit D100L.

You clearly didn't bother to read the article I posted. Deoxit D100L chemically attacks copper. Copper dissolves into this solution to create a blue-green solution, you can see this on the photo on page 3 of the article. On the other hand Deoxit G100L does not do this.

The problem is with the plethora of products out there to try, people give them a punt. There is never any control of untreated vs treated metal, they don't know what the metal or surface would have been like if they had applied nothing. Especially after a month or two goes by. Then, if they seem to "like it" they post reviews & make recommendations on social media, after performing no experiments with controls. These are nothing more than worthless testimonials. It is a good thing Medicine does not conduct research this way, or there would be many dead patients.

I would encourage you to ignore you tube videos, streams and blogs.

Try to find out yourself if a product really is beneficial on any type of metal you intend to apply it to, by performing experiments on the clean base metal of interest and inspecting it, compared to the untreated metal areas after about a month at least. You might be able to settle on a good product this way and have some logical basis for using it.

Hello,

I would use the DeoxIT® D-Series Pen and/or wipes: Part Nos. D100P, D50W

Remove IC, apply to IC pins, then re-insert.

For the board socket in the middle of the board, use one of the wipes and apply to the edge connector, then insert.

Links:
https://caig.com/product/deoxit-d100p/

https://caig.com/product/deoxit-d50w/

Best regards,

Mark
CAIG Laboratories, Inc.
12200 Thatcher Court | Poway, CA 92064-6876 | U.S.A.
Office: (858) 486-8388 | www.caig.com
 
Perhaps Mark from Caig Chemicals could explain the chemical reaction seen with D100L on Copper ? If you look very carefully at the photo in the article I posted, you can just see a tiny central trace of blue in the pool of G100L too, which is not very significant compared to the D100L. The Copper plate was also stained around the perimeter of the pool of D100L where it was a thinner layer. None of the other products tested produced a direct chemical reaction with the Copper, though as noted all except mx-3 induced brown spot corrosion. I would be interested to know what component of the Deoxit reacts with the Copper and the probable formula of the blue-green Copper compound.

Since I did not get an answer from the makers of WD-40 about the mechanism of the corrosion induced on Copper and Brass, I had also written to the makers of mx-3 and posed the counter question; why their product does not do it. They did reply, and the explanation was that mx-3 was a high purity oil and did not contain any Dieselene derivatives, which they thought might be responsible for the effect.

Single & Dual wipe IC socket pins are made of Tin plated phosphor bronze or Beryllium-Copper, both with a very high Copper content. Some cheap ones may just have been Tin plated Brass. The Tin plating fails with age and the underlying surface is exposed. We don't want to be applying anything to aged IC sockets, that we have not thoroughly tested, that will react negatively with Tin or Copper and in the long run, make them worse.
 
Last edited:
Wow it's been almost a year since posting here. Doesn't feel like that long.

My attempt to convert the Sol PCB into a gerber is going alright.. I'm having to make a lot of custom footprints to fit the 70s vibe. The 'round tracks' plugin for KiCAD seems to really work for getting traces curved like the hand-laid methods used back in the day. I'm in awe of the patience and work that would have been required to lay this out - not sitting in a comfy chair on a computer like I am, but sweating it out in Processor Technology's hot attic, bent over a light table. Anyway, this will not be a perfect replica but I aim to make it so close most won't notice.

I've got all the IC pads in. One challenge I'm hitting, reminiscent of my early TVT board duplication efforts, is that these scans of the original plans appear to be distorted a bit. To line them up I had to use photoshop's warp tool and that means some pads are slightly out of alignment. But not horribly.

I still want to try to make it somewhat as a home hobbiest would have - albeit using the toner transfer method, but I'm realizing now just how difficult that will be. I've heard with some board houses you can send vintage PCB stock and they'll etch on that. I have built up a decent stockpile of legit 70s vintage PCB stock so that's kind of the direction I'm headed I think, if I can find a place that'll do it. For one of the boards anyway.

I don't know what this will cost but I'm hoping to run off a few to give as gifts to my channel Patrons and maybe a few of us here who have been so helpful over the years, if they want one. Perhaps one of us will get this thing working sorta.
 

Attachments

  • solpcbtop022124.png
    solpcbtop022124.png
    248 KB · Views: 18
Hi,

It will be pretty neat to see a working reproduction Processor Technology Sol-20 motherboard ... ITMT, a small team of us had created a reproduction Processor Technology GPM board:
https://www.brainless.org/Altair/Repository.html#section18

We also have a reproduction SciTronics Real Time Clock board ...

Others in the S100 Google Group are also working on reproduction S-100 boards too ...
https://groups.google.com/g/s100computers/c/6Wx8hI40MXU

One project that maybe the most important for many people is a new RAM/PROM board ... this new board design replaces the CompuPro RAM-17 board which can be addressed in 1K sections to fit into a Processor Technology system, a CompuPro system and replace RAM and PROMs for many other systems.


.
 
More progress. This is actually kind of addictive. I sit down to do a half hour and end up at it for 2 or more.

I'm doing tracks in batches and then using the rounding tool to make the curves round. Something I never noticed before looking at a photo of one of the original boards, is how the drilling seems to be way off in places, as attached. Would a board house do this? Or did they just get the boards etched and drill themselves? It makes me wonder if the prototypes were really through plate or not.

Anyway as I said before, I'm really getting an appreciation for just how much work this would have been back in the 70s. Lee's account of the process makes the job sound pretty miserable at times. At least I get to do it from a comfy chair!
 

Attachments

  • solprogress2242024.png
    solprogress2242024.png
    317.1 KB · Views: 17
  • soldrillingmistakes.png
    soldrillingmistakes.png
    776.8 KB · Views: 17
More progress. This is actually kind of addictive. I sit down to do a half hour and end up at it for 2 or more.

I'm doing tracks in batches and then using the rounding tool to make the curves round. Something I never noticed before looking at a photo of one of the original boards, is how the drilling seems to be way off in places, as attached. Would a board house do this? Or did they just get the boards etched and drill themselves? It makes me wonder if the prototypes were really through plate or not.

Anyway as I said before, I'm really getting an appreciation for just how much work this would have been back in the 70s. Lee's account of the process makes the job sound pretty miserable at times. At least I get to do it from a comfy chair!

Hi,

I think there were at least two worlds for making circuit boards back in the 1970s ... laying tape down to make the traces to be photographed, or just sketching the traces and vias etc. onto vellum, then photographing the layout to make a mask for board etching.

I have a few old photo masks that look pretty amateurish ...


.
 
I'm thinking now Proc Tech must have had their own in house board-making facility, and that they just banged these off on equipment they had. I emailed Lee Felsenstein to ask about it. I'm doubtful a PCB fab like Techniques, etc would have misaligned vias like this.
 
I'm thinking now Proc Tech must have had their own in house board-making facility, and that they just banged these off on equipment they had. I emailed Lee Felsenstein to ask about it. I'm doubtful a PCB fab like Techniques, etc would have misaligned vias like this.

Hi,

The photo masks I have are NOT Processor Technology ... I don't think there was any company ID on them. They look like they were done by a home brew with starter skills.


.
 
After many months and a little carpal tunnel, I have completed the basic layout for the Sol prototype PCB. A few weeks ago I got tired of people asking me where I was with it and pushed myself to get that project un-stalled again. I have been working on the replica case, but it's all been fits and starts. Work has been so busy.

I'm not sure I did anything super important here; after all, labomb got one done before I did, and I'm an absolute amateur who barely has a clue what he's doing. But there was something neat about following all of those tracks around literally retracing history. I can't imagine how laborious and difficult that was for Lee Felsenstein and his assistant, especially with Bob Marsh piping in here and there (according to Lee) with last minute changes, including the one that made making all the required connections impossible. Especially up in the heat of that loft above the manufacturing area. I chuckled every time I traced a track and found one dead ending nowhere, with no via - trapped because of what was running across on the other side. I wondered what it was like to write the PE article for this, especially the 'build instructions', knowing the would be builder didn't have a prayer getting this thing going. Not even sure if that was the Proc Tech team writing that article or if it was substantially written by PE staff. Or if it was written after the new design had already been done.

Now this thing is still a ways from finishing - I do want to dial it in and make sure the traces are the right widths and look - there's lots to tweak still. But I'm hoping to run off some boards before the end of year. In the meantime I'm going to dedicate myself to translating the schematic into KiCAD or something at least readable, as the scans provided were as bad for those as for the artwork.

I would very much like to do a 4 layer version that incorporates all of the jumpered connections, but this business about thermal relief has got me concerned. Think I need to work on understanding how all that works first.

Anyway, always satisfying to 'finish' something like this. As a beginner, I feel like I've hit that 'I have made fire' moment in Cast Away. Can't wait to run it and the JOLT boards off! Thanks to everyone who has provided their invaluable advice on this!
 

Attachments

  • side 1 done before fixes.png
    side 1 done before fixes.png
    402.5 KB · Views: 16
  • sol backside kicad 3d.png
    sol backside kicad 3d.png
    309.5 KB · Views: 15
  • sol backside kicad.png
    sol backside kicad.png
    242.7 KB · Views: 15
  • sol prototype pcb kicad side 1.png
    sol prototype pcb kicad side 1.png
    337.1 KB · Views: 16
Last edited:
After many months and a little carpal tunnel, I have completed the basic layout for the Sol prototype PCB. A few weeks ago I got tired of people asking me where I was with it and pushed myself to get that project un-stalled again. I have been working on the replica case, but it's all been fits and starts. Work has been so busy.

I'm not sure I did anything super important here; after all, labomb got one done before I did, and I'm an absolute amateur who barely has a clue what he's doing. But there was something neat about following all of those tracks around literally retracing history. I can't imagine how laborious and difficult that was for Lee Felsenstein and his assistant, especially with Bob Marsh piping in here and there (according to Lee) with last minute changes, including the one that made making all the required connections impossible. Especially up in the heat of that loft above the manufacturing area. I chuckled every time I traced a track and found one dead ending nowhere, with no via - trapped because of what was running across on the other side. I wondered what it was like to write the PE article for this, especially the 'build instructions', knowing the would be builder didn't have a prayer getting this thing going. Not even sure if that was the Proc Tech team writing that article or if it was substantially written by PE staff. Or if it was written after the new design had already been done.

Now this thing is still a ways from finishing - I do want to dial it in and make sure the traces are the right widths and look - there's lots to tweak still. But I'm hoping to run off some boards before the end of year. In the meantime I'm going to dedicate myself to translating the schematic into KiCAD or something at least readable, as the scans provided were as bad for those as for the artwork.

I would very much like to do a 4 layer version that incorporates all of the jumpered connections, but this business about thermal relief has got me concerned. Think I need to work on understanding how all that works first.

Anyway, always satisfying to 'finish' something like this. As a beginner, I feel like I've hit that 'I have made fire' moment in Cast Away. Can't wait to run it and the JOLT boards off! Thanks to everyone who has provided their invaluable advice on this!
Hello,
i found that by bitsavers,
 

Attachments

Back
Top