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What type soldering iron do you guys use?

tblake05

Experienced Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2017
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295
Location
Minnesota
My old radioshack special from 15 years ago has about had it. Just a run of the mill standard non temperature adjustable.

What do you guys use? I'm mainly a hobbyist. I use it for small electronics, computer repair, and occasionally for automotive needs which is never much more than soldering a couple 16 gauge wires together.

Has anyone used the ts100 or ts80? Like the portability yet they still need to be plugged in. If there was an adapter to go from my 20v dewalt battery pack, it would be perfect.

otherwise what other suggestions do you have? I'd like something temperature controlled so I can use it on smaller/finer electronics without burning a hole in the circuit board.
 
I've used my Weller TCP iron for about as long as there have been microprocessors. Replaced the heater once and the cord (slammed a drawer on it) once. It just keeps going and going.

weller_ps3d_soldering_station_with_tcp_24v45w_soldering_iron_1552794917_83aeb578_progressive.jpg


There are certainly cheaper ones and even fancier ones, but mine just works. 50 years ago, it was probably only really good professional choice.
 
They were the first company to have a (patented) thermostat in their replacable tips, ca. 1960s, offering different temperatures
Later, they had adjustable with a knob models.

I used one well into the 90's when I was introduced to the Metcal at work.
 
I’ve got a hakko FX-951. It’s probably a little pricey for just hobby use, but I’m glad I bought it. After using only $7 radio shack or Walmart irons it’s amazing what the difference is. It heats up faster, it seems to stay hot better, and the hand piece doesn’t fight you light something with a heavier cord. Probably a cheaper model that can use the hakko tips would be a better idea, but hey this hobby is usually cheaper than fast cars.
 
They were the first company to have a (patented) thermostat in their replacable tips, ca. 1960s, offering different temperatures

The principle of operation is dead-simple. The power supply is just a 24VAC transformer with a switch. The handle has an internal switch attached to a spring-loaded rod-shaped magnet; that come up through the center of the tip heater. Each tip has a slug of an alloy that has a curie point denoted by the number stamped into it (e.g. 6 = 600F, 7 = 700F, etc.).

When the tip is below the curie temperature, the switch rod is attracted to the slug in the tip. When the temperature rises above the curie point, the attraction ceases and the switch opens.

Metcals are very nice, if you can spare the beer money for one. Most new folks seem to opt for Hakko or the Chinese clones of them (which take the same tips).

I've also got a couple of old-school irons (e.g. Ungar 777) as well as a Weller D-550 gun (325 watts) for the big jobs.

Anything larger, and I pull out my acetylene torch.
 
I began with a Weller WES51 and it was really tough to beat, especially for the money. Did a lot of soldering with it, but really fine work was more difficult.

I tried the Hakko, but it couldn't unseat the Weller for me.

Then I tried the Pace ADS200 - it is fantastic. I love everything about it, it is made solid and the company has provided top notch support for any questions I've had.

https://paceworldwide.com/
 
Hexacon irons for me. I use Select-o-Track and Therm-o-Track temperature controlled stations.
 
Tell me about that eBay rework station. How is it for SMT work?

If you visited any electronics lab in Silicon Valley in the 1970s, you'd find almost nothing but Weller TCP irons, Edsyn Soldapullt suckers, the alcohol dispenser and desoldering braid.

Only recently have I started using the cheap Chinese hollow needles for PCB rework. Simple, but they do the job.

When I started building gear (before I learned to shave), I used a 100W Craftsman iron, complete with wood handle and cloth-covered cord. But that was all point-to-point stuff. I next got a Weller gun, which was less hazardous (I picked up the Craftsman by the wrong end--once).
 
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Tell me about that eBay rework station. How is it for SMT work?.

To be honest Chuck I haven't done much re-work with it but what I have done, it works perfectly but I also don't have anything to compare it to. The soldering gun is great on it. It heats up in seconds and the temps stays steady at whatever I set it to.
 
I've used those cheap all-in-one chinese rework stations and I find it's the preference on what color/configuration you like as there's a few varieties available for identical configurations.
Personally however I've been using Weller for 15 years now as the parts are abundant and perfectly useable stations like the WESD51 can still be had for under $100.
 
I'm like Chuck, I have an old Welller with the same handle but a different base ( same 24vac transformer ). I have tips for 6,7 and 8. I've even used it to solder surface mount part ( using a microscope as my eyes are not that good ).
I use a solder solderavac ( older version of the solder pull-it ). I've learned to be good at pulling chips without cutting the leads and not ripping pads. It is an art and take patients.
Dwight
 
I next got a Weller gun, which was less hazardous (I picked up the Craftsman by the wrong end--once).

You are not alone. There are a good number of people (if the advertising stock photos of people making technical repairs is to be believed) that just love to hold their soldering irons by the wrong end.
 

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..Only recently have I started using the cheap Chinese hollow needles for PCB rework. Simple, but they do the job.
Yep, I have a cheap set i ordered from china, they do the job pretty well, The one i use most is overdue for replacement, My fault i bent the bloody thing.
 
I have a beat to shit RadioShack iron I purchased in the 90's to fix a C64 and the desoldering gun they also sold (soldering iron with a suction bulb attached). Have not used either one in a long while.

A slightly more modern soldering pencil with a knob to set temp I use for non critical stuff.

And some Chinese special 898D (I think that is the model) with digital temperature controlled iron and hot air station. Mostly I use the iron but I did use the hot air station to reflow a dead Radeon HD 7950 the other day and it works now.

For thru hole desoldering I have a Chinese handheld desoldering electric suction gun which I have used quite a bit.

I have to say in the last few years the cheap Chinese knockoffs have made life much easier repairing all this old junk.
 
You are not alone. There are a good number of people (if the advertising stock photos of people making technical repairs is to be believed) that just love to hold their soldering irons by the wrong end.

Those little things--this is the type of iron that I started off with:

When you pick up one of those the wrong way, you never forget it.
 
You are not alone. There are a good number of people (if the advertising stock photos of people making technical repairs is to be believed) that just love to hold their soldering irons by the wrong end.

After all, they are called soldering pencils. One should hold it like a pencil, shouldn't one?
Dwight
 
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