QuantumII
Veteran Member
Nice pictures 
Did you get a replacement drive yet ?
Did you get a replacement drive yet ?
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Death by stiction
- Thread starter eupeptic
- Start date
On the old hard drive that was sitting there for a while, remove the controller board, slightly move the spindle by hand to loose the heads that were sticking on the platters before fire it up. If you plug the power in, turn it on (without loosing the heads) Heads will break off. If it broke, scrap the hard drive, replacing head is not a easy job. NO dust, oil can be in the hard drive. I am not YET talking about re-write the servo track, align the head assy.
MikeS
Veteran Member
QuantumII, I did try running an IDE drive in it and it boots v e r y . . . s l o w l y . . . (I probably only waited 30 seconds or so as some of the characters were only coming on the screen one at a time.)
MikeS, the camera (a Sony Mavica MVC-CD350) was configured as you see below with an old Mamiya / Sekor lens (there is a UV filter on the SLR camera lens that I probably could have taken off to so the edges of the pictures wouldn't be cut off as much, but I didn't think of doing that as I was happy with the results), and I had it on a tripod in a room underneath a fluorescent fixture (one that uses the straight lamps). Objects are in focus about 1 inch from the end of the lens (I often use that lens as a magnifying glass as it gives a very clear and highly magnified image, but I had never thought of sticking it on a camera as I've tried taking pictures/video through a microscope and binoculars without achieving any good results), and the camera seems to be able to focus by as much as 5 mm or so when it's zoomed in all the way (if I don't zoom in the image is in a circle surrounded by black from the 55 mm lens). While taking pictures I was using the timer as the exposure was often down in the 1/4 second range (at ISO 100), and a few required a 1 second exposure (I wasn't using any flash). Getting the camera to focus where I wanted wasn't that easy (notice that the first image of the head is not centered on the head, but on the part I wanted in focus), but it worked fairly well most of the time.
MikeS, the camera (a Sony Mavica MVC-CD350) was configured as you see below with an old Mamiya / Sekor lens (there is a UV filter on the SLR camera lens that I probably could have taken off to so the edges of the pictures wouldn't be cut off as much, but I didn't think of doing that as I was happy with the results), and I had it on a tripod in a room underneath a fluorescent fixture (one that uses the straight lamps). Objects are in focus about 1 inch from the end of the lens (I often use that lens as a magnifying glass as it gives a very clear and highly magnified image, but I had never thought of sticking it on a camera as I've tried taking pictures/video through a microscope and binoculars without achieving any good results), and the camera seems to be able to focus by as much as 5 mm or so when it's zoomed in all the way (if I don't zoom in the image is in a circle surrounded by black from the 55 mm lens). While taking pictures I was using the timer as the exposure was often down in the 1/4 second range (at ISO 100), and a few required a 1 second exposure (I wasn't using any flash). Getting the camera to focus where I wanted wasn't that easy (notice that the first image of the head is not centered on the head, but on the part I wanted in focus), but it worked fairly well most of the time.
MikeS
Veteran Member
Thanks for the info; gonna check it out.
m
m
MikeS
Veteran Member
By the way, I have a Conner CP-3000 here and should also have a few WD AC-280s somewhere, both of which are rumoured to be compatible with at least some SS-286 models; if you're interested I could check 'em out to see if they still work.
What make/model IDE drive are you (slowly) running now?
m
What make/model IDE drive are you (slowly) running now?
m