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Should I do it?

d4nzo said:
So i found a motherboard, and had recently been getting into retro computers/games. I felt like this was a sign.
Now the motherboard I have found, I've looked up and barely found anything until someone from here(in the irc chat) helped me find it. I'm pretty sure it's this:
http://stason.org/TULARC/pc/motherboards/U/UNIDENTIFIED-486-80486-VIP.html#.VmUD4YQoDz_
View attachment 28201
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It may be my eyes failing me but imo there is a serious possibility that these are not the same boards.
The orientation of the chip closest to the cache seems wrong - the orientation of the IDE slots seems wrong - the distance between the memory slots and the PCI slots seems different, the distance between the cpu and the outside of the board seems different, ...
Just to mention the most obvious points.
Click to expand...
 
Plasma said:
You can use a newer ATX case and power supply with an adapter cable like this: http://www.amazon.com/ATX-Motherboard-Power-Converter-Cable/dp/B000E7JUVO
Click to expand...

These adapters won't work unless you have an ATX power supply with a -5v rail, which have been scarce for years. The -5v rail was removed from the specification sometime around 2003ish. Many old boards won't even power on without the -5v rail.

The only ATX power supplies sold today which still have the -5v rail are IED units from shady Chinese companies, but even those are starting to become scarce as they see no need to have the rail since nothing uses it.

Scali said:
You can still buy new AT PSUs, reasonably cheap, such as this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817338010&cm_re=at_psu-_-17-338-010-_-Product
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817707002&cm_re=at_psu-_-17-707-002-_-Product
Click to expand...

I'd be very wary about these AT PSUs, as they're often IED Asia-X units in disguise. I've read about several which use the innards of IED ATX units with bodge wiring on the inside to get the AT power switch.

The best but more expensive route would be to get an ATX 20 pin to AT P8/P9 adapter with a -5v regulator between the two. That way you can use a quality power supply and not worry about stuff blowing up.
 
It may be my eyes failing me but imo there is a serious possibility that these are not the same boards.
The orientation of the chip closest to the cache seems wrong - the orientation of the IDE slots seems wrong - the distance between the memory slots and the PCI slots seems different, the distance between the cpu and the outside of the board seems different, ...
Just to mention the most obvious points.
Click to expand...

I think it's the correct board. not 100% but most things match up
 
starting to think it's not worth the trouble of rebuild, maybe I'll just buy a working pc of that era and give this stuff away. someone in the irc chat says it's a "sought after board" maybe I'll give it to them.
 
d4nzo said:
I think it's the correct board. not 100% but most things match up
Click to expand...
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I have a board here that appears on STASON and that match is pretty accurate. Your board does not match the dimensions of the STASON image - I am pretty sure it is not the same board. There were many thousands of 486 models produced back in the day and the STASON collection is most likely not even close to completely showing what was out in the wild.

Re your last post - I would not invest any money in a build around a mobo if I was not sure it was in working condition . The imo best way to move forward is by finding a retro computer fan in your region and ask him to set the board up in a test rig.
 
d4nzo said:
starting to think it's not worth the trouble of rebuild, maybe I'll just buy a working pc of that era and give this stuff away. someone in the irc chat says it's a "sought after board" maybe I'll give it to them.
Click to expand...
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What is the 'irc chat' ?
 
I prefer OEMs. After my OEM 486 died I bought another one for < $75 on eBay: comes complete.

That way there is $ in the budget for Roland MIDI equipment that makes classic gaming much better.
 
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