Recent content by andy

The term "CrystalScan" didn't mean anything. It was just a marketing term they invented and used on their monitors for a time. They probably phased out the use of that term during the production of that monitor model.

Since you have two of them, you could use the working one as a reference for voltage measurements.

They have a $200 minimum order for international, so that's why they are charging a $180 handling fee. Maybe they have other things you need. Maybe if you ask nicely, they'd be willing to reduce the minimum order for you.

Sometimes just using longer screws is all it takes. I just last week had a CRT TV where some of the plastic posts for the CRT mounts had broken. The posts were about 2" long, and broke half way up. They originally used 1" screws. I drilled out the broken off parts, glued them back on, and...

I would avoid petroleum products because it can damage some plastics, and will make future repairs more difficult. If there's space, you can glue an appropriately sized tube over the outside of the post as reinforcement.

You need to be closer than 6" to do much good. There's no risk in actually touching the screen with the degaussing coil. A heavily magnetized spot like that can be difficult to remove.

The 5153 suffers from brittle plastic, so they often get broken in shipping. With even normal handling, you have to be careful with them. That problem is often caused by a bad capacitor on the 200ish volt supply to the video output circuit. I would look for more cracked traces before I start...

hp had a run of bad plastic in that time frame. My Laserjet 5000, and color Laserjet 4550 are also rather fragile in places. If there's space, I would glue some strips of thin plastic to the outside That will not only reinforce the cracks, but also reinforce the weak plastic.

Although it's meant for acrylic, I've had good success using Weld-On #3 on ABS. You have to be careful since it flows like water, and will instantly damage the finish on any surface it touches. For flat finished surfaces, I try to preassemble the parts with tape, then apply a small amount to...

I would recommend using a solvent based adhesive. With proper care, it can produce almost invisible repairs that are almost as strong as the base plastic. You might want to reinforce the repairs by gluing thin sheets of ABS plastic to the inside where possible.

The last generation of IBM ThinkPads are already collectible (T43, and T60). I recently sold a PowerMac G5 quad core for over $1000 that I only bought as a curiosity for next to nothing about 15 years ago. Later high end CRT monitors are also highly collectible. I which I could go back to...

If a monitor is dropped, the mounting of the shadow mask can shift slightly, causing purity errors. Generally, this will cause massive purity errors of a large area of the screen. It won't just happen on its own, it takes a hard drop. A spot error in the middle of the screen like you have...

It's not an electronic problem. Either the CRT has become too strongly magnetized for the degausser you used, or there's physical damage to the CRT. If it was dropped, the shadow mask could have shifted slightly out of position. I'm leaning toward strongly magnetized because a damaged CRT...

It's worth checking the drive over for dried out electrolytic capacitors. Hard drive run hot, and small caps tend to dry out quickly.

DO NOT go adjusting the yoke until you've thoroughly degaussed it. The service manual even says to degauss the CRT before adjusting it. Unless the yoke has slipped out of position, adjustment isn't the answer.