Recent content by Kool65

Check this post for a GoTek OS Image https://forum.vcfed.org/index.php?threads/model-iii-repairs-and-gotek-experience.1241082/#post-1298431

I have one working in a Model 4. This picture shows my jumper settings. I am using FlashFloppy 3.42. FF.CFG: interface=jc, host=unspecified, display-type=auto. pin2 = auto, pin34 = auto (Probably defaults). Yes I would try a 40 track single density single sided image to start with.

If you boot to the FreHD from the GoTek drive, you will not need the FreHD Boot ROM.

If that screenshot is what you actually did then two things. Line 30 has an error it should be "INP" not "IMP". You did not issue "RUN" before doing the "SYSTEM", I would expect it to lock up if that is the case. I think it will work after doing this considering the first test worked. Yes or...

Also if you haven't already tried firmware 2.13, try that it sometimes works better with some SD cards.

This is what I'm currently using successfully. Make sure you buy your SD cards from somewhere reputable, there's a lot of fakes out there.

I'm using a 16GB FAT32 successfully. Haven't tried a 32GB. The card needs to have volume name, ie "FREDHD" or whatever. How long is your cable? Maybe try another cable or shorter cable. I originally had trouble with my first cable. The green LED should only blink when being accessed after the...

Ok, I didn't do that test before because I have a M4 and not a M1. But anyway with the M4 I do in fact get 2.57V without power connected.

Just saw your image, hard to tell but is there a jumper on Q1 to replace the missing transistor? Also double check your your firmware and GAL images.

Not connected to the computer I believe in that case the green LED should flash once and red stay off. Same with or without SD card. So you may have an issue with the freHD.

You are correct there is some info in the service manual, see from page 184, there are timing diagrams, etc. Here is the chip layout from the manual. At some point a replacement for these custom chips is going to be needed as they won't last forever.

I can do it, but probably not local to you depending on where you are.

Looks in very nice condition. I don't think your monitor is a CM-1 hence why I asked for the picture. Unless where you are they used a different model number, it's probably a 26-1201 (or 26-9201 in Australia). See here for a service manual...

You just need a single RCA lead. You could use that one but you'll only need one of the three wires. And you're right vertical collapse would normally produce a line in the center of the screen. Could you possibly post a picture of your monitor and cable you are using, I think it would helpful.

Sounds like vertical collapse issue on the monitor, unlikely a flyback problem or a model 1 problem. See here for making a composite cable https://www.trs-80.com/wordpress/repairs/model-1-composite-cable/