Recent content by lowlytech

The second video card had the same results. So I went for the tube adjustment. Thanks guys for giving me the confidence to move the convergence rings. I think I got it dialed in about as good as I can get. The magenta looks miles better than it did. I can't thank you all enough for your...

I do have two other EGA adapters I can swap out and see if the same color issues happen.

I think I am gonna leave the rings where they are. I can't complain at all at the current state, and finding a multisync TTL monitor these days is hard to do let alone one that doesn't have a tired tube. The only thing that seems to be off is the magenta color makes my eyes cross when I look...

I looked at the joint in question and took the tweezers to it and it didn't really break loose. I just now got it together and powered back on and it still is working at the moment. The convergence issue isn't that bad and I will check into a degausser coil. The main thing is magenta colored...

Yeah I see what your talking about with the way that connection looks questionable where it is circled in red. I know I haven't dropped this, but the monitor was a purchase from ebay, so the shipping or previous owner could have definitely been a factor in rough handling. I figured I broke...

Well shoot, I was hoping that component would have somehow been related to the fault. Before I put it together again for the pretest after fitting the transistor is when I went over all the joints and traces again with a bright bulb and magnifying glass, when I spotted that joint not looking...

Not going to believe this, but I think it is finally working. Was going over the soldering and I happened to move the tweezers on a joint and it broke loose a bit. I reflowed and reassembled and just like that it seems to be working. Cap C423 was the culprit I think. I will let it run for...

I get 0.30 ohms between those points

I can take a more specific photo tonight when I get home if this one that was already on my phone won't work. Let me know.. C557 shows on the parts list as 10uf 160v. There are a few spots on the PCB where factory work had been done with a diode and several other components that had legs...

I spent about an hour last night taking measurements of diodes and resistors and I just can't seem to find anything that jumps out at me. I thought I had something when R521 read 0.10 ohms no matter how I turned the pot, but when I reversed to the other end it worked normally. The HV ADJ...

Here is the corner section you requested. IC503 is the AN6558. Andy.. Thanks for the tips. Will try and take a look at the area later this evening.

Got it. I will reassemble and wait for the diode that has been ordered. Hopefully will have it by this weekend. Thanks..

If the Zener would be a more direct and safer bet I don't mind to get it. I am pretty sure I have a 3x6" aluminum heat sink somewhere around here. If we used the 48-56v supply the zener wouldn't be needed, correct? I just don't want to hook something up backwards or turn it on in the wrong...

Was testing a few other transistors and I noticed Q1511 was shorted between base and emitter. I took the transistor off and the short is not on the transistor. Following down to the transformer it seems strange on the loops and wanted to make sure this was normal. Pin 5 + 8 gives me 3.4ohm...

So will the BK 3020 work for this application you think? Also you talk about needing about 50-60 volts, do you think the 48-56 volt power supply (150Watt) supply from a POE switch would work? Otherwise I have a dozen or so 2sc2625 and assorted IC's off 3 or 4 more modern CRT's that were...