Recent content by nullvalue

Yep doing a test fit with my Kraft joystick on the Hammond case, we can easily mount it centered. We could even move it forward 10mm or more if we wanted to. My guess on the original though it was mounted forward to accommodate the hand on the somewhat tall enclosure. Ours doesn't have that...

I marked up Doug's drawings with the actual measurements - sorry I took them in inches :)

Finally got my enclosures. Here's a side by side comparison to the original. Width & Depth are virtually identical. The Hammond enclosure isn't as tall - but we already knew that. The blue colors basically match. The Hammond is a little more cream color compared to the Cromemco's off-white. But...

Wow this looks great! really well done. Unfortunately the one attempt I made at etching a homemade PCB in the 90s went horribly (with a kit I think I bought from Radio Shack) and I haven't tried again since. Would it make sense to use a trimmer pot for adjusting the volume?

So have the foils for the original Cyclops ever surfaced? I think this needs to be our next replica effort. :) Or does anyone reading this happen to have an original/unbuilt kit and willing to scan the PCB's? (long shot, but you never know - after finding not one but two people with unassembled...

Oh actually I just tried monkey.mov again, and this time selected 0.5K memory and it worked fine!

This is awesome, the ZAXXON.MOV plays back perfectly in color and looks great. However, I'm having trouble with the MONKEY.MOV file, it plays back the first few frames but then glitches out & repeats.

This is great! Will this need to be done in a Kicad project to generate the Gerbers?

Very cool, will have to give this a try tomorrow!

FYI I got some clear gloss spray, and I'm really glad I did this test first. I really don't like the shininess that that gloss adds. I think I will go with a matte clear finish instead. Waiting for it to dry to test the durability, but the spray did not affect the transfer (no color bleed or...

I understand your desire to add a connector, but I don't mind the cable coming directly out of the the enclosure. In fact, I think the unruliness of two JS-1's being directly connected to the chonky edge connector for the D+7A just adds to the "charm". :) Let's just keep the design flexible...

I get what you're saying, but DB9 are just so big & bulky, would you really rather have that hanging out the back of a joystick? Literally every other joystick I own (probably 30+) just has a dangling cable. It's just how joysticks are an always have been i guess. 😁 I have no problem with it.

In the 90's I fell in love with the Microsoft Natural split keyboards. I had a few variations over the years but I think a few years ago they stopped making them, at least with full-travel keys. So I went on the hunt for a new split design, and was hoping to find one with some decent key...

I'm not sure what you're referring to here. The Dazzler board doesn't need any lifted IC pins (that was my RAM board that happened to be slightly incompatible with the Dazzler). The only jumper wires necessary on the Dazzler that I built were due to the PCB's basically being a prototype. But...

Sure here are some more measurements for all in both 20V & 22V just to be complete: JS-1 VOLT AXIS - CENTER + DIFF 20V: Left/Right 13.19V 14.99V 16.82V 3.63V 20V: Up/Down 12.96V 14.63V 16.55V 3.59V 22V...