Grid Battery Rebuild

[joshuaparkour1]

I recently cut open my dead GRiD battery pack with hopes of rebuilding it, but I am not sure what type of replacement would be appropriate as the cells are not labeled.
(I know not the greatest work with the Dremel, going to sand away and fill the rough edge once rebuilt)
If anyone has rebuilt one before and knows the best substitute cell, I would appreciate it.
PS: The cell with the plastic cutaway within the cardboard tube was unlabeled on the plastic.
Would these standard cells work? https://voltaplex.com/lg-m26-18650-battery-inr18650m26


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[twolazy]

Those would be nicads. You can use NiMH in place of the old nicads if you wish. I'll guess they are around 900mah each. You see the same batteries in old cordless drills. Each tube should be 2 batteries.

Each tube should be 6v if I recall correctly. They would be like these batteries...

17978 6v Sub C NiCAD Battery Stick | Emergency Lighting |ELSC

ELSC - 6v sub c nicad battery stick. Here is a list of the product variation: 850.0034, 17978 6v Sub C NiCAD Battery Stick, 17978-974, USA-EL17978-R, USA-EL17978-974, 17978-R, 17978, USA-EL17978

www.emergencylighting.com

Personally I wouldnt bother using nicads or nimh and would just grab a charge controller and lithium ion pack. Be cheaper, lighter , and more power dense.

Something like this 18v charge controller would work well, and some 18650s...

Lithium Battery PCB Circuit Board for Makita 18V 1.5/3 Ah BL1860 Charging Board 603004794953 | eBay

L Universal suitable for Makita 18V 1.5/3/6/9Ah BL1815 BL1830 BL1860. M18 PCB Charging Protection Circuit Board for Milwaukee 18V Li-ion Battery USA. For Milwaukee 18V Li-ion Battery Parts M18 PCB Charging Protection Circuit Board.

www.ebay.com

 

[joshuaparkour1]

Thanks for the info, so I am assuming that the as long as each tube is 6v it doesn't matter if I use NiMH?

 

[twolazy]

Both use same charging circuitry so should be good

 

[joshuaparkour1]

Project Update for anyone interested:
I discovered that the cells were actually standard nicad sub c batteries which were 1.5 V each and this pack has 9 of them or three per tube.
I decided to rebuild with standard sub c nicads to keep the standard charging architecture on the 1520 (the computer can recharge the battery with the external barrel connector)
There are two options to go about this
1: Spot weld the sub c nicad tabs together or pay Batteries Plus Bulbs to do it which would cost 22$ per tube or 66$
This would have been the best option as that's what the battery was configured as from the factory and would cause the least parasitic loss and most durability.
I don't have a spot welder though and I don't want to pay that much money to them to do it for me, so I decided to buy sub c's from Amazon which cost half as much and crimp them together. Crimping them is way more secure than just soldering them.

This worked and I was able to run my 1520 from the battery pack.
I am waiting on the pack to dry from a sealant I applied and am going to sand to perfection to finish the job.

Does anyone know what this guy is?
(Thinking it's something that tells the 1520 that the battery is low)

 

[twolazy]

Thats a thermal fuse, meant to blow if the battery overheats while charging, to prevent a fire. Make sure to put one back into your rebuild.

 

[joshuaparkour1]

I put it back in when I rebuilt, just curious as a cursory Google search didn't turn up any results.