Using my multimeter, and the board’s edge connector for ground and +5 V. Yes to both.
Yes to both.
Yes to both.
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Getting XT-CF-Lite/XT-IDE working
- Thread starter Bill-kun
- Start date
modem7
10k Member
Hopefully it won't take too long for the chips to turn up.
When reprogramming the ROM, you might want to configure the Display option in the Boot settings menu to use the 80 column Black & White mode. This should make the hotkey bar fully visible on the Portable 1. You should also disable slave drive detection since you can't have a slave on this controller anyway.
All chips arrived today. I replaced U3 and U4. The original U4 has one leg that had been broken off, but it appears to have made contact in the socket anyway, going by continuity test.
In any case, I replaced U3 and U4. There is no change. The blasted board still won't recognize the CF card!
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modem7
10k Member
Try U5 as well.
Still no change.
A few thoughts:
Just as well replace all IC's now you got em, Though we know the EEprom circuit is working.
Got another CF card you haven't tried ?, Wipe a CF card RAW and try that connected.
Give the fingers a good clean.
Make sure the controller is a firm fit in the motherboard ISA slot and not tilted over to one side, Does it have a bracket ?.
Go over the solder joints again.
Define “raw.” You mean just reformat it, or something else?
Yes, the XTIDE board has a bracket. It’s been fully in the ISA slot.
No not reformat, Use something like DiskPart with the "Clean all" option or hddguru's low level format tool to completely zero out the whole cf card.
modem7
10k Member
Here are some more continuity tests:
U3 pin 1 to ISA edge connector pin A11
U3 pin 2 to ISA edge connector pin A26
U3 pin 4 to ISA edge connector pin A25
U3 pin 6 to ISA edge connector pin A24
U3 pin 8 to ISA edge connector pin A23
U3 pin 9 to U3 pin 20
U3 pin 11 to ISA edge connector pin A22
U3 pin 12 to U3 pin 20
U3 pin 13 to U3 pin 10
U3 pin 14 to U3 pin 10
U3 pin 15 to U3 pin 10
U3 pin 16 to U3 pin 10
U3 pin 17 to U3 pin 10
U3 pin 18 to U3 pin 10
U3 pin 19 to U4 pin 2
U4 pin 1 to U5 pin 1
U4 pin 2 to U4 pin 5
U4 pin 4 to U5 pin 2
U5 pin 1 to ISA edge connector pin A27
U3 pin 1 to ISA edge connector pin A11
U3 pin 2 to ISA edge connector pin A26
U3 pin 4 to ISA edge connector pin A25
U3 pin 6 to ISA edge connector pin A24
U3 pin 8 to ISA edge connector pin A23
U3 pin 9 to U3 pin 20
U3 pin 11 to ISA edge connector pin A22
U3 pin 12 to U3 pin 20
U3 pin 13 to U3 pin 10
U3 pin 14 to U3 pin 10
U3 pin 15 to U3 pin 10
U3 pin 16 to U3 pin 10
U3 pin 17 to U3 pin 10
U3 pin 18 to U3 pin 10
U3 pin 19 to U4 pin 2
U4 pin 1 to U5 pin 1
U4 pin 2 to U4 pin 5
U4 pin 4 to U5 pin 2
U5 pin 1 to ISA edge connector pin A27
modem7
10k Member
Do you have a logic probe or oscilloscope ?
dabone
Veteran Member
Also, post some good pics of the card that you assembled, showing your soldering on the back and on the cf slot.
I did these checks with replacement TI chips for U2, U3, U4, and U5.
U3 pin 1 to ISA edge connector pin A11: Yes
U3 pin 2 to ISA edge connector pin A26: Yes
U3 pin 4 to ISA edge connector pin A25: Yes
U3 pin 6 to ISA edge connector pin A24: Yes
U3 pin 8 to ISA edge connector pin A23: Yes
U3 pin 9 to U3 pin 20: No
U3 pin 11 to ISA edge connector pin A22: No
U3 pin 12 to U3 pin 20: No
U3 pin 13 to U3 pin 10: Yes
U3 pin 14 to U3 pin 10: Yes
U3 pin 15 to U3 pin 10: Yes
U3 pin 16 to U3 pin 10: Yes
U3 pin 17 to U3 pin 10: Yes
U3 pin 18 to U3 pin 10: Yes
U3 pin 19 to U4 pin 2: No
U4 pin 1 to U5 pin 1: Yes
U4 pin 2 to U4 pin 5: Yes
U4 pin 4 to U5 pin 2: Yes
U5 pin 1 to ISA edge connector pin A27: No
I do not have a logic probe. I do have an analog oscilloscope; I only know the very basics so far of how to use it.
I'll try this next. https://hddguru.com/software/HDD-LLF-Low-Level-Format-Tool/
dabone
Veteran Member
Just at a quick glance, I see these bad joints.. Also clean up all your flux with isopropyl and a toothbrush.
modem7
10k Member
Possibilities:
* Bad measurement
* Bad construction (e.g. solder joints)
* Bad PCB (i.e. defective manufacture)
Thank you for pointing this out. After closer inspection, I found the following joints that I had left completely unsoldered.
- C3 north leg (but leg and pad still passed continuity)
- C4 north leg (still passed continuity)
- U5 pin 1 (failed continuity)
I scrubbed the back of the board with isopropyl alcohol and a toothbrush, rinsed with some water, then set it in front of a heater to dry for 10 minutes. Then I rechecked these continuities.
U3 pin 9 to U3 pin 20: No
U3 pin 11 to ISA edge connector pin A22: No
U3 pin 12 to U3 pin 20: No
U3 pin 19 to U4 pin 2: No
U5 pin 1 to ISA edge connector pin A27: Yes
I resoldered each of the joints above and rechecked continuity, paying attention to the display on the multimeter. No change for beeps, but here are the readings. I don't know the units.
U3 pin 9 to U3 pin 20: No (857)
U3 pin 11 to ISA edge connector pin A22: No (859)
U3 pin 12 to U3 pin 20: No (OL)
U3 pin 19 to U4 pin 2: No (827)
U5 pin 1 to ISA edge connector pin A27: Yes
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Remove the IC's from U3 and U4 and check again, Placing your probes on top of the sockets, Taking care not to damage the sockets.
I gotta say, Continuity test's are not fool proof, Even if you get a beep from your meter it just means there is a path between 2 or more points, It doesn't mean it's a good path in this case.
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modem7
10k Member
'OL' is sure to mean 'overload', which in the case of the continuity setting, is sure to mean open-circuit.
The figures may be in Ohms. You could confirm that by placing your meter into resistance mode.