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Compaq Portable 1 Keyboard repair and User guides

B

bettablue

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Joined
Feb 21, 2011
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Eugene, OR
Heeaaalllp! :medic: OK, it's really not that serious.

I was finally able to lug the Compaq over to a table where I could set it up for testing. Not an easy task when you only have one good arm and you have to use a wheelchair! :clap:

I have to say, I like that computer. I can definitely see myself using it to write code etc.. Later on I will even want to connect it to Alice, my 5150 system via serial port. It's already proving to be a great addition to my small yet growing collection. We had visitors over yesterday, and when they asked if I had gotten any more computers, well... Needless to say, my collection is a real hit.

But all is not coming up roses! I noticed while typing, that the "Enter" key is much stiffer than I was originally lead to believe. The key's functional difference is enough to be annoying at best, and a pain in the A _ _ at worst, when it comes to writing code on the keyboard. I know, I tried last night. (the previous owner was up front about that and another small issue with the case... You know who you are, thanks much. I love the computer, despite the amount of cleaning it needed.)

Here's the main problem with that. I still don't have a downloadable users guide for the Compaq Portable 1, nor do I have the parts I need to "fix" the keyboard. I certanly don't want to just start turning screws, only to find thaat I needed to do this, and not that, if you know what I mean. Also, what is required to change the pad under that "Enter" key? Is there a certain type of material? Someone had offered to assist me with a small kit, or the pad with instructions, but I also don't remember who made that offer. I would like to accept. his message included something about a small or medium US Mail prepaid box.

Can someone point me to where I can find the manuals actual operators manuals, and guides; please??? I have already searched Google, Bing, and a few manual download sites. I even tried the Compaq/HP sites to no avail. I already have two guides, one is the technical repair resource guide, and the other is the maintenence guide. But what I really need; I don't have.

Thanks much. I look forward to seeing the results of this post.

Thomas.
 
So it's stiff like it's getting stuck when you press it down? The times I've seen that it's been from spilled soda/beer on the keyboard so if it's really that (and someone else who may know better also knows) you could wash it or clean under that area. I'm just not sure if a keyboard with foam pads can be washed in a dishwasher, etc. Otherwise it's just the usual elbow grease and cleaning around that area.

Have you opened up the case yet? I think I replied in your other thread on the best trick I found for getting that darn case lid open (lean on it with your elbow and you'll see the teeth in the back pop out enough that you can pull them up a bit to get around that latch). Both sides of the system open up like that. The keyboard cable goes down a plastic tube to the back of the system where it's a (6? pin) rectangle connector. I've only done it once and was a little nervous about whether I'd remember which side was up (you might mark it with white out or something). In my case it also had a snipped zip tie around the cable and the end of that tube which you'd need to cut to remove the keyboard.

That of course is if that's the route you want to go. You could clean it by hand without removing it.
 
Thanks Barythrin. Yeah, I was able to remove the panels just fine. And since there was only one broken tab on one of the panels, the one that needs to be opened for access to the expansion slots etc.. I swapped them around. There is j u s t enough of the broken tab to keep the cover in place without issue, therefor, the good cover is now where it needs to be. And yes, your advice helped my addess the inside of the computer.

Now as for the keyboard issue. It's more than just a dirty pad. The previous owner told me that he replaced that pad a short while ago, and the key had been very stiff ever since. Since I'm a heavy keyboarder, I need one that works properly. Especially when writing code; which is going to be this computers primary job.

There was another user who offered a replacement pad of the right size and maternails, along with his instructions for replacing the pad. So, ultimately, this thread was written specifically for him to read and hopefully respond to. I've made more than just a few friends here, and well... you know how it goes when you're in and out of the hospital with serious internal bleeding. You forget a lot of things.

So tanks for the reply. I'll look into removing the keyboard from the computer to get started but I really want to wait till I know if I'm getting the part or not.



barythrin said:
So it's stiff like it's getting stuck when you press it down? The times I've seen that it's been from spilled soda/beer on the keyboard so if it's really that (and someone else who may know better also knows) you could wash it or clean under that area. I'm just not sure if a keyboard with foam pads can be washed in a dishwasher, etc. Otherwise it's just the usual elbow grease and cleaning around that area.

Have you opened up the case yet? I think I replied in your other thread on the best trick I found for getting that darn case lid open (lean on it with your elbow and you'll see the teeth in the back pop out enough that you can pull them up a bit to get around that latch). Both sides of the system open up like that. The keyboard cable goes down a plastic tube to the back of the system where it's a (6? pin) rectangle connector. I've only done it once and was a little nervous about whether I'd remember which side was up (you might mark it with white out or something). In my case it also had a snipped zip tie around the cable and the end of that tube which you'd need to cut to remove the keyboard.

That of course is if that's the route you want to go. You could clean it by hand without removing it.
Click to expand...
 
Hello,
I recently acquired 2 Compaq Portables and I initially had a problem with the keyboard,
I found after opening it all the foam pads under the buttons had decayed and did not spring back after being pressed,
Luckily I found some dense foam which I was able to glue foil onto to replicate the pads,
It does not have the same feel but it works for me,

I am currently having trouble with the "serial port",
I seem to get an error whenever I try to send or receive data through "COM1",
I believe it is actually on the video card and I am starting to wonder whether it is actually a display port.
 
ASM said:
I seem to get an error whenever I try to send or receive data through "COM1",
I believe it is actually on the video card and I am starting to wonder whether it is actually a display port.
Click to expand...
Display port is female (rows of holes). Serial port is male (rows of pins).

Snooper is a good diagnostic for that sort of thing. I put a copy here for you. Also, remember that DOS labels them consecutively and the IRQs can be out of sync with that.
 
This started out great! I got som replacement disk/pads from Chromedome and proceeded to tear into the keyboard. Swapping in the new replacement disk/pads was a very simple straight forward process, but since there were other things I wanted to work on, I didn't check the keyboard right away.

In a way, I'm glad I didn't, or I would have blown a fuse! Once I booted the computer today after repositioning the hard disk drive, (More on this later), I decided to install the AST clock and Setclock exe for the AST Six-Pack Plus. When I attempted to type, I found several other keys that had quit responding. so I opened the keyboard again. Sure enough. None of the ones I had replaces had any problems. But those around them seemed to be falling apart. Many had foam that was simply disintegrating. Most just didn't have any spring left in them. So, I pulled all of the disk/Pads, and kept the new ones. Those were set aside until I make an entirely new set.

I measured the old disks, and compared the new ones I got from Chromedome. They were a perfect match at exactly one cm in diameter, and measured approximately 1/3cm thick. So now I'm basically back to square one.

Here's my question. As I see it, the metallic disks need to make contact with the circuit board "half moon" shaped contact points. These are shorted across the gap in between them in order to register a key stroke. Looking at the disks, it is plain to see that the metallic surface can be quite large in comparison to the standard ones, but more importantly, has any one tried the jewelers circle punch setup? Or how about one of these I found on E-Bay? Do you think these would be strong enough to cut through a sheet of aluminum foil, a piece of foam aprox 3/16" thick and a piece of Mylar type backing? I'm actually thinking of using a thicker type of packing tape for the backing.

My other option is the circle punches I bought through Amazon. Do you suppose that using these new punches with a rubber mallet over a good wooden surface to cut out a complete set of disks is a better solution? I'm also thinking about using a thicker type of metallic tape too. What are your thoughts on this?

Note: Pics of the punches I purchased have been added to this thread earlier. I'm looking for technique with these too if that is possible.
 
Hey BB if you still have the foil left over from the disentegrated keypads save them. Can be used when you make new keybads and glue on top of the foam.
Just my Pennies worth. Oh BTW I am Not sure about this but I think the keyboard is Capactive? correct if wrong please.
 
Chromedome45 said:
Hey BB if you still have the foil left over from the disentegrated keypads save them. Can be used when you make new keybads and glue on top of the foam.
Just my Pennies worth. Oh BTW I am Not sure about this but I think the keyboard is Capactive? correct if wrong please.
Click to expand...

It is a capacitive keyboard... So the Mylar foil doesn't short PCB traces, but changes (increases) capacitance between them when key is pressed.

I took apart my keyboard, but still didn't have time to repair it. But my observations are:
1. All foam pads disintegrated. If I push one with a finger, it either falls apart or compresses and doesn't return to its original shape. So all pads need to be replaced.
2. The original Mylar circles also look disintegrated, with some aluminum stuck to the foam. I have some Mylar sticky tape (something like this: http://www.amazon.com/CS-Hyde-Metalized-Acrylic-Adhesive/dp/B003HKRF12), and I will try to use it for my repairs...
 
Funny, because, all of the ones I saw that had been "repaired" previously, were NOT capacitive, and needed to make a physical connection. I verified this in mine by trying my test meter on them. All of the pads had the foil exposed. And not every key failed. It is only the ones that the foam didn't have enough reach to push the metallic foil onto full contact with the circuit board that fail to register. The ones that do HAVE enough pressure to flatten the foil against the circuit board to contact both halves of the circle in the circuit board all work and register their key strokes.

I don't know which is supposed to be true, but if it is a capacitive activation, then the bare foil doesn't seem to be an issue. I personally think they require the connection. But I'll find out when I'm done.


sergey said:
It is a capacitive keyboard... So the Mylar foil doesn't short PCB traces, but changes (increases) capacitance between them when key is pressed.

I took apart my keyboard, but still didn't have time to repair it. But my observations are:
1. All foam pads disintegrated. If I push one with a finger, it either falls apart or compresses and doesn't return to its original shape. So all pads need to be replaced.
2. The original Mylar circles also look disintegrated, with some aluminum stuck to the foam. I have some Mylar sticky tape (something like this: http://www.amazon.com/CS-Hyde-Metalized-Acrylic-Adhesive/dp/B003HKRF12), and I will try to use it for my repairs...
Click to expand...
 
+1 to the capacitive keyboard. The foil pads shouldn't short out the traces. Not sure what that does to the sense chip. My early portable had a dead sense chip, and it was a bear to fix. I wound up buying another portable just for the keyboard.

All I know, is there is very little available information on the sense chip, and the chip is a specialty unit. So unless you find a chip house that has salvaged ones, you won't be able to replace it.
 
I just got out my trusty old Simpson 260 and tested the metallic disks to check your theory. Guess what I found? None of them would carry a circuit! That means that they are all indeed capacitive key switches. You would think that making sure the padded disks wouldn't be so damned critical, but evidently it is! So, I have my wife making a shopping run for some materials. We already have some clear packing tape, a roll of metallic water proofing tape, and some foam material that can be layered together to get the desired thickness. I also have a set of metal punches, and a 1lb rubber mallet. I'll be laying down a layer of clear tape, then the metallic foil tape, followed by two layers of adhesive foam (not that double sided foam tape, but similar), followed by the Mylar disks saved from the original padded disks.

According to chromedome, that should be all I need to make an entirely new set of useful padded disks. So unless someone has any better ideas, I'll be making my first set either tonight or tomorrow.

I'll check here first before I start with the punches.

bluethunder said:
+1 to the capacitive keyboard. The foil pads shouldn't short out the traces. Not sure what that does to the sense chip. My early portable had a dead sense chip, and it was a bear to fix. I wound up buying another portable just for the keyboard.

All I know, is there is very little available information on the sense chip, and the chip is a specialty unit. So unless you find a chip house that has salvaged ones, you won't be able to replace it.
Click to expand...
 
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Today, my best friend and I made over 100 of the padded disks using a standard metal hole punch and a rubber mallet. It took some fiddling to find the proper method for using the punch to leave a good result, but eventually we had a plan. I assembled all of the layers together, using a top layer of clear packing tape, then a layer of the metal foil water proofing tape, a layer of paper backed foam padding exactly 3/8"thick, and finally the Mylar backing.

The Mylar was not applied till after the padded disks were all created. Including some that I had from another project some time ago, I had exactly 120 of these Mylar disks, so there were just enough to complete the entire job. I had also purchased just enough of the other materials too, to make sure I had enough for testing. So now, all that's left is to assemble the keyboard and try it out.

The process of making the disks went pretty smoothly. I only hope that re-assembling the keyboard goes as quickly as it did last time, and that it finally works properly.

Wish me luck everyone!
 
The keyboard repair did NOT go as planned. Even with careful planning, choosing the right materials, and making sure that nothing actually created a short, I get some very weird character strings, multiple characters, and dead keys. I guess I'll have to purchase the set of padded disks from the one site that sells them. I just find the price of $39.99 for a bunch of these pads is excessive. Really though, I see no other choice.

So, unless someone else has any other ideas to try, I'll have to go that rout. It's just going to have to wait a while. I have too many other fires burning.
 
We'll see. I thought I had good materials to begin with because Chromedome send me about 10 of the pads he had. I tried to make mine look just like his. The only real difference was in the type of foam and foil I used. I still covered the foil with a clear packing tape to keep them from making direct contact with the circuit board underneath, so I don't understand what I could have done so badly.

There is one more thing I was wondering about regarding the the Compaq keyboard design. Has anyone tried to retrofit a rubber dome mechanism into the Compaq Portables keyboard? I mean, if I have a rubber dome board, I can make my own activators that would press the rubber membrane down to contact the circuit board. I can even use the circular metallic disks from the original pads inside the domes. I was just curious if anyone has tried, and what happened as the end result. I was actually thinking of cutting out the individual domes, and placing them on the bottom of each key. Then using some sort of mechanical connection from the key to the top of the dome, pressing the key would press the underside of the dome into contact with the circuit board. I could even make my own sandwich layer to help keep the contacts separated until the individual keys are pressed.

Hmm. Any ideas? I could start retro fitting today, if there is a possibility of it working. What are your thoughts?


On another note, I met a guy who lives in LA who at first wanted to buy my IBM PC based on a review he saw on LinkedIn. He actually wanted to use my PC system in a movie he's filming. Of course, I'm didn't sell, but we seemed to hit it off pretty well any way. He told me that he has a non working Compaq Portable with a blown power supply. Now, power supplies I can deal with. These capacitive keyboards are another thing all together. If the keys aren't designed to make a direct contact somehow, then i personally don't know much about them, and how the electronics work. He's bring the non working Compaq down to me in another week or two. (At least that's what he's telling me) And all he wants in return is one of my VIC-20's and some of my game carts. So of course I'll take him up on it.

ure out how to better make your own?[/QUOTE]
 
OK, it's official! I need some help with this thing! No matter what I do, I just can't seem to make it work. So, I'm going to ask. Is anyone willing to take on this as a special project? Obviously, I'm not able to pay a hell of a lot to repair this thing. But if I can get away with a repair that will cost roughly $40.00, I'll do it. It's either that, or I shoot something. Probably my foot!

So, do we have any takers?
 
Sorry to revive this old thread, but now that I have the backing, I was going to order the replacement pads for refurbishing my Compaq Portable's keyboard. I have the guys email address, but I don't have his web page. Doing a search didn't bring up the result I was looking for, Do any of you still have the link to the site selling these parts? I really do need a full set in order to get my keyboard functioning properly again.

TIA.
 
I used this kit to repair mine. I had to use my old plastic disks as the ones he supplied were too big. Sort of a pain as you have to clean the old disks(glue and dead foam).

Good luck and you will need a lot of patience to do the fix. My keyboard works great now.

Matt
 
I hate to revive this old thread, but I ordered that keyboard repair kit from that guy about 2 months ago for my one of my portables. After a month I sent him an email asking what the usual ship time is and he sent me a fairly crass email back about how he doesn't do rush orders. Anybody get the kit from him recently? How long did it take? Lol.

I wouldn't mind if it took a few months or anything, I just wish he would have told me rather than brushing me off. I responded back to him saying there was no rush I just wanted to know what to expect and he never sent a reply back.
 
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