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Micro-Solutions Parallel Port 3.5" Floppy drive

A

Al Hartman

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I have a drive by itself. Not sure if it's a 720k or 1.44mb. I have to open it up.

I need to know what kind of power supply it needs, and if anyone can point me to the software and maybe a manual online. I don't even have the cable for it. I'm hoping the manual will have the pinouts so I can make one up.
 
The power supply depends on the particular model of the drive. The early ones (in a metal case) used a 13.5VAC supply; subsequent plastic-cased ones used a 9VAC wall wart; the final ones used a 5VDC switching supply. It's most probably a 1.44MB model and I thought I posted drivers for it--but if you can't find them, PM me and I'll send along a copy. Drivers, depending on vintage, came on 5.25", 3.5" and CD-ROM.

If you can't find an exact model number, post a photo of the rear of the drive and we can go from there.

One little-known tidbit is that these things can support 2 (or 4 with some cabling magic) drives of any type--there's a utility to set the drive type in the NVRAM.
 
It is a Micro-Solutions Drive.

It is a Micro-Solutions Drive.

I opened the case, the logicboard on the bottom says Micro-Solutions.

It has a Mitsumi Newtronics D359T5 1.44 MB 3.5" drive in it.

But, there's no way to tell what kind of power adapter it needs. It's not written anywhere on the drive.
 
That's right. There are two plastic-housed models that differ only in the power adapter--and worse, you can completely toast one by using the wrong adapter. I'm staring at two drives here--and they don't differ in model numbers and the serial numbers aren't that far apart. But there is one easy way to tell the difference.

Look at the metal plate on the back of the drive with the etched "POWER, PRINTER, COMPUTER" legends. Now look at the space between the two DB-25 connectors on your left and the power connector and switch on your right. About midway between top and bottom of the plate in the space between the DB25s and the power connector, there will either be an empty hole or a hole filled with a Phillips-head screw.

If you have the screw, you'll note that inside, it holds a TO-220 regulator against the plate as a heatsink. This is the AC version and will take a 9-12VAC wall wart for power.

If what you have is an empty hole, you've got the DC version and will need a 5VDC @1600 mA power source. Center of the connector is +; shell is -.

The cable between the BP and your computer is a DB25M->DB25F "straight through"--all 25 pins are connected, no twists or jumpers inside.

Hope this helps. At one time, a fellow on eBay was selling these NOS for $0.99 each + shipping. I think I bought 6-8 of them; shipping was $14. The guy had picked them up as part of a government auction lot; he had about 500 of the things.
 
Al Hartman said:
Hoping a DB-25M -> DB25F "straight through" was what was needed, I ordered one on eBay for under $5.00.

It appears to be the 9-12VAC Version. Do you know what size connector that is?
Click to expand...

As nearly as I can mic that thing, I believe it's the common-as-dirt 5.5+2.1 mm connector. Your power supply should be rated at about 800 mA.
 
When you get all your stuff together, drop me a PM and I'll get the drivers to you. Nothing special about the drive--I've swapped other 1.44M drives into this thing. FWIW, I believe you can even use a 2.88M drive in it. Certainly the driver is capable of it.
 
Al Hartman said:
I'm not worried about the drive. I'm hoping the logic board is still good.
Click to expand...

I'd becareful when applying unknown power supplies, especially AC ones.
One hint would be electrolytic capacitors across the input. In most DC items, there will be one across the input jack. In an AC input there obviously will not be.
 
As I said, the AC variety has a TO220 voltage regulator (7805) screwed to the metal backplate, as well as the usual full-wave bridge configuration on the PCB. The DC version has those spots empty--and has a 3.5mm shell-diameter power jack, so it's physically impossible to insert a 5.5mm power connector into it.

If there's really any doubt, I can include photos of both, as well as the original board that supplies +5 and +12 from a 13.5VAC supply for older drives that require +12.
 
Al Hartman said:
Great! I ordered one of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-Converte...=US_Server_Power_Supplies&hash=item3cd162679a
Click to expand...

Don't be surprised if that's light as a feather and causes tremendous radio interference, due to a total lack of shielding inside. Those cheap Chinese power supplies are sloppily built using the cheapest possible components, and have terrible voltage regulation.

The best-case scenario when using one of those is that the device it's powering will work OK, but AM radio reception in the house will be wiped out with loud static and buzzing noise. The worst-case scenario is an electrical fire!
 
What he said. The 9VAC adapter for the Backpack is nothing more than a simple transformer "wall wart". Nothing fancy in it. When I"m in the market for one, I'll just go down to the local Goodwill store--they've got tons of the things. What you purchased should still work, however.

Those cheap Chinese generic warts scare the dickens out of me. That "CE" marking has nothing to do with European safety certification--it's part of a clever misdirection for "China Export". See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CE_marking for details.
 
Chuck(G) said:
Those cheap Chinese generic warts scare the dickens out of me. That "CE" marking has nothing to do with European safety certification--it's part of a clever misdirection for "China Export". See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CE_marking for details.
Click to expand...

I recently bought a "Whole House" brand FM modulator, and the USB AC adapter it came with says "Designed by Apple in California, Made in Japan" on it -- yeah, right!! It's light as a feather and the only place it belongs is in the trash. I really wonder why a supposedly reputable product that normally sells for $125 (I didn't pay that much) would include a counterfeit Apple power adapter in the box!?

Sometimes the RFI these counterfeit power supplies give off is so strong that it messes up the operation of electronic devices:

 
Hello Chuck(G)

I have the Micro Solutions 5.25 floppy version m#1231. I can't seem to locate working drivers for it. Could you steer me in the right direction.
thanks,
keith
 
Thanks Al,

I got very lucky and found the 3.5" driver at this location (minuszerodegrees.net/transfer/35_inch/35_inch_drive.htm) and it worked on the 5.25. Thanks for your reply.
 
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