• Please review our updated Terms and Rules here

Garage Storage of Computers and Parts

Grandcheapskate

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2014
Messages
819
Location
New Jersey, USA
Due to space contraints, I have had to store many computers and computer parts in an unheated, unattached garage. I put them in there in October of 2013 and when I do pull one out, it seems to work fine. This includes parts such as CD drives. The garage doesn't get hot in the summer as it is basically fully shaded so heat is not an issue. Winter temperatures here in NJ normally don't get into the single digits with most days hovering around 30 degrees.

Parts stored are complete machines, motherboards, monitors, modems, routers, etc.

How has your experiance been if you store older computers (and other electronics) in an unheated garage?

Thanks...Joe
 
Do not store tapes and floppy disks in your garage if there is any risk of high levels of humidity. Once fungus gets into them, it's pretty much bye-bye. That'll do a number on steel and other rust or corrosion-prone stuff as well.

But your biggest enemies are mice and rats.
 
First, the temps have already reached single digits here, in NJ, this winter!!! Where have you been hiding??? Just because you sleep until 3PM when the temperature is up to 18 or 20 doesn't mean it wasn't 8 to 10 at 6AM. :)

Next, the temps this coming weekend will be approaching 2 to 5 degrees in the morning hours.

Now, it's neither ambient heat nor cold that degrades the equipment. The equipment operates at high temperatures far beyond any naturally occurring temperatures. And cold temperatures don't kill computers, either. If that were the case there wouldn't be many cars left on the road in Canada or Alaska! :)

My experience is that I have an unheated garage full of computer equipment and the failure rate is no different from similar equipment that I have stored in my house, which, yes, is fully heated. :)
 
Humidity levels in an outside garage are what worry me (RUST), plus insects and assorted animals making your machines a home. Plus you never know If the roof will leak. I would remove all batteries since they tend to not like freezing much.
 
Unbeliveably, I haven't seen much evidence of mice, rats or bugs. I did catch a few mice early on but nothing over the past 6 months or so. In fact, I have been amazed at the fact I don't even see spider webs. I keep an eye out for droppings and so forth, but I just don't see anything.

I tried a couple different "natural" repellants. I spread a whole bunch of mothballs around the garage (mice hate those) and also sprayed Wintergreen around the walls - spiders and mice supposedly don't like strong smells. When it gets a little warmer I can make a better assessment.

But good to know the electrical equipment should be fine.

Thanks...Joe
 
Now, it's neither ambient heat nor cold that degrades the equipment. The equipment operates at high temperatures far beyond any naturally occurring temperatures. And cold temperatures don't kill computers, either. If that were the case there wouldn't be many cars left on the road in Canada or Alaska! :)
Well, it kind of is. Cold is less of a problem, but heat is. But the real killer is an extreme change of temperatures over a short period of time. If it's cold at night and hot at day, the material (incl. the PCBs etc.) are stressed a lot and can develop micro-cracks. Also, water condensation will cause rust to grow fast. Such stuff is stored best at constant temperatures.
 
But the real killer is an extreme change of temperatures over a short period of time.
And that is most noticeable when the machine is powered on and off. The diurnal temperature change (in an unheated garage, for example) has less influence on the equipment than the powering on or off in both the temperature extremes achieved and the time interval required to reach those high or low temperatures.

Such stuff is stored best at constant temperatures.
Agreed, this is the best situation. The best of all would be to never power the machines on so they always remained at a nearly constant temperature. :)
 
The best of all would be to never power the machines on so they always remained at a nearly constant temperature. :)

Isn't that incorrect though? Never powering a system on, the capacitors would dry out anyway so you'd still end up with a dead piece of equipment. I think that's why sellers love the term "worked when I put it in storage". Even in climate controlled storage they also recommend having moisture absorbing gel things in the unit to prevent condensation from moisture though.

Realistically I'm not sure I've seen much of a difference in failure rates inside vs garage, but then again it's not like I'm the original owner so who knows where this stuff sat for 30 years before we got our hands on it.
 
One overlooked step in storing electronics is condensation cycling. Basically put the unit in a plastic bag, being careful to assure that rain won't be able to pour in. When doing this, its best to pack it on a dry day so there is less humidity inside.

It doesn't take a lot of air cavity to hold enough humidity to condense on electronics when the temperature cycles down into the cold range. To do it the best, fill as much of the cavity space with filler like closed-cell foam or styrofoam. Blocks displace more air completely than those shipping styrofoam "peanuts" but the latter can fill the odd remaining spaces. Open-cell foam that is more available really isn't much help. The less free air cavity inside, the less condensation issues you'll have inside the bag.

Some would say that putting in absorbents is enough, and that would be true until they become saturated. As vintage electronics tend to be stored a lot longer, its better to reduce the air volume inside.

One trick I've used is to save shipped boxes that have styrofoam liners like the ones I get from the "Honey-Baked Ham" company. They're particularly good because they have a solid 5-side piece with a fitted lid. I bag items inside and put the styrofoam lid on them and *then* slide the cardboard box down over it so that when the box is sat in its normal orientation, contents are inverted and the solid piece of styrofoam make a protecting cover over the contents. It helps insulate and protect shoud water ever soaks the box; the styrofoam lid at the bottom assures it won't collect water inside the styrofoam.

I've boxed up my old BYTE magazines this way too except due to the summer heat I wrapped each stack of magazines in cut-outs from old blankets because I didn't want to risk the plastic bag melting to the magazine covers.

If you think there is not enough air inside a case to form condensation on surfaces, I once had to diagnose and solve a problem for a company that thought they had a software bug. In fact the problem was that inside their 3x4x4 inch sealed case, there was enough air that condensation formed on the board and because they were cheap and stupid, they didn't pay for soldermasks on the printed circuit boards as so droplets formed on the leads and traces of the crystal, it made the microprocessor crazy. It didn't help that their manufacturing site had no temperature or environmental controls and the problem was worse on days when it rained. :)

The solution was to immediately silicon-coat those traces which removed the "bug" and later to order proper printed circuit boards and to insert a block of styrofoam into the cavity to reduce the air volume so that condensation would be insignificant.
 
Last edited:
Hey Joe, is it cold enuff for'ya today in sunny, tropical NJ?

Wait 'till tomorrow morning. Lookin' at near ZERO! :)

Yeah, it is a bit nippy. :)

You know how people often say "don't say anything or you'll jinx it?" The day after I posted I hadn't caught a mouse in six months I found one in a trap.

Joe
 
I keep the bulk of mine stored in the garage on an upper-level shelf. Never had problems with mice up there. The software is stored in the house. Everytime I pull one out, it works fine.
 
The majority of my stuff is stored in an outdoor shed...wish I could keep it all inside and comfy temperature-wise, but I just can't...at least not and keep my wife. :) Amazingly enough, it hasn't seemed to have hurt anything. The only thing I do wonder about is dealing with batteries...went through a bunch of stuff a year or two ago and found most stuff that had batteries (box lithium and NiCd, not button cell) leaking...most with bad and some with disastrous results. I theorize that the temperature swings caused it, but I don't know that it would have been any better stored in a more constant temperature...

Wesley
 
I theorize that the temperature swings caused it, but I don't know that it would have been any better stored in a more constant temperature...
Batteries rot in controlled environments, i.e., 68°F - 72°F with nominal humidity. It's just the nature of the beast.
 
Batteries rot in controlled environments, i.e., 68°F - 72°F with nominal humidity. It's just the nature of the beast.
Though the damage of the leakage heavily depends on air flow. The more air flow, the less damage will occur. That's because of the chemical reaction with carbon dioxide, resulting in harmless potassium carbonate (that white, dry stuff often seen around the battery). If there's no air flow at all and the carbon dioxide runs out, a leaking battery can damage a PCB beyond repair within weeks.

So, when storing in plastic bags, or any other "air sealed" way make sure you remove the battery first.
 
I'm not an expert in storage theory but I've heard several horror stories from folks here on the board from storing equipment in plastic bags. Opening it later to find a puddle of rust water at the bottom and rust damage from condensation (temperature swings) or whatever that weird iron oxidation or shavings type of result (only read about it also so I don't exactly remember what it was other than I think Chuck did know).
 
I'm not an expert in storage theory but I've heard several horror stories from folks here on the board from storing equipment in plastic bags.

While no expert, I would tend to agree that placing them inside plastic bags would be a bad idea. I would guess the free flow of air around the machines is the best way to store them if temperature and humidity are not an issue. And also if the garage is dry (ie. the roof doesn't leak and water doesn't seep in).

Inside our garage, the temperature swings are not rapid and it does not get hot in the summer (my guess would be low 60s at most) with couple open windows.

Joe
 
Back
Top