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DEC FlipChip Storage Solution

D

DougIngraham

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 2, 2019
Messages
815
Location
Rapid City, SD USA
I have a couple hundred FlipChip modules that needed a better storage solution so I came up with one. I just uploaded the 3D printer files to Thingiverse here:

DEC FlipChip Storage solution

And I would upload pictures of the finished solution but they are on an SD card that is 400 miles away. I will upload them when I get home in couple of days. For now you can look at the 3D models of the blocks on Thingiverse.

I hope this helps people store their spares and modules waiting to be repaired.
 
I was able to print 8 x hex and they turned out great. I was even able to figure out how to use the little couplers :-). I've started another print for another 8 slots. I ran out of black PETG, used some black PLA to finish that rack, and now I've switched to grey PETG for the second rack.

My earlier solution was very similar, but without the little couplers was really not rigid enough for hex module storage.
 
I am glad you figured out how to put it together. I expect that when I get the photos uploaded they will make this clear. I considered a joiner with a slot for a nut but the tapped plastic is plenty strong and it is a plus not having to buy anything extra. The question I had was what to do in the Metric part of the world. I doubt the German enthusiasts can go to their local hardware store and buy 8-32 x 1/2" screws. I can get some metric stuff at the local hardware store so maybe I should investigate that to find what is close.
 
DougIngraham said:
can get some metric stuff at the local hardware store so maybe I should investigate that to find what is close.
Click to expand...
A quick Google indicates that an M4 is close, but the common thread is different. Hopefully the self tapping would just work. Time to experiment, I suppose.
 
DougIngraham said:
I doubt the German enthusiasts can go to their local hardware store and buy 8-32 x 1/2" screws. I can get some metric stuff at the local hardware store so maybe I should investigate that to find what is close.
Click to expand...
Thanks Doug. It is not just Germany but most of the rest of the world is metric where imperial screws/nuts/bolts are not readily available. Here in Australia we switched to metric half a century ago.
 
thunter0512 said:
Thanks Doug. It is not just Germany but most of the rest of the world is metric where imperial screws/nuts/bolts are not readily available. Here in Australia we switched to metric half a century ago.
Click to expand...
Oh, I know. I used Germany as an example only. I am sorry if anyone felt excluded from being in the list of "Correct Thinkers"

I was told in school when the PDP-8's were the new hotness that the US would be all switched over to metric in just a few years.
 
I made my fingers sore by running a tap through the holes in the joiner. There is a size where you can 3D print the threads in the part but 8-32 is too small with a 0.4mm nozzle. And I would not want to wait if I used a 0.2mm nozzle. I am not sure even a 0.2mm nozzle would be fine enough. It is not a test I have seen anyone do.

A lot of people would tell us to just use heat set inserts.
 
DougIngraham said:
I made my fingers sore by running a tap through the holes in the joiner.
Click to expand...
I just drove the 8-32 (or M4-70) fasteners in place with a screwdriver and let them thread their own way.

I did foolishly make my fingers bleed (before going out and finding a proper handle) by using my fingers to turn the drill bit through all the holes in the card-slot parts, though.
 
vrs42 said:
I just drove the 8-32 (or M4-70) fasteners in place with a screwdriver and let them thread their own way.
Click to expand...
It surprises me a little that this would work. But then again, plastic is rather soft and pliant.
vrs42 said:
I did foolishly make my fingers bleed (before going out and finding a proper handle) by using my fingers to turn the drill bit through all the holes in the card-slot parts, though.
Click to expand...
It is best to use a powered drill device for this. I used a drill press early on for some of the holes and a battery powered hand drill for most of them.

I am going to rethink this in light of the fact that you shed blood in the pursuit of this project. I could punch the holes through but then you would need to use supports. Is it worth the plastic waste and extra time it takes to clean up the parts to eliminate the drilling?
 
DougIngraham said:
I am going to rethink this in light of the fact that you shed blood in the pursuit of this project. I could punch the holes through but then you would need to use supports. Is it worth the plastic waste and extra time it takes to clean up the parts to eliminate the drilling?
Click to expand...
I actually like that the thing prints adequately without support and the waste and removal bother that support would entail. I eventually used the a tap handle to drive the drill bit, which works very quickly and well to clear the holes.

My persistance in driving the drill bit with my bare fingers was just my own stupidity. Laziness really, as I knew exactly where the tap handle was.

(Laziness and the general mess in the garage was also the reason I didn't set up the drill press.
I wasn't sure I trusted myself with a power hand tool to drill through just a millimeter or two. I could easily imagine myself getting sloppy and damaging a 3 hour print.)
 
The first photo shows how the joiner block fits.

The second shows the arrangement for the hex size boards in the large Banker Box. I have made three of these. Two are completely full and the third is about half full

The third shows the setup I am using in the smaller banker box. for the quad size boards.

I don't know what I am going to do for the single and dual boards for the Straight 8 and 8/i. They will fit in these but the boards are shorter so there would be a lot of wasted space.
 

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