• Please review our updated Terms and Rules here

How Would You Fix These Traces?

The Replacement Hinge Parts I have are shown with the new Hinge Piece.


Larry
 

Attachments

  • P1030880.JPG
    P1030880.JPG
    2 MB · Views: 3
ldkraemer said:
The Replacement Hinge Parts I have are shown with the new Hinge Piece.


Larry
Click to expand...
The replacement door I installed only had one brass rod for the hinge that attaches with screws. For the part that slides in the channels, it has no rod at all. Just black plastic molded pins. No way to use a brass rod without carefully removing the end pieces and then drilling the ears. I guess I could take the hinge off the working one and install it on the broken one and have one with two brass rods. Yeah, I just came to that while typing, so you have to read my thoughts. 🤣
 
Tincanalley,
AH, but my brother and I have Doors that are also available with the Brass Rods and Hinge Parts all available.
They won't break like the OEM doors & Hinge assemblies do. So far, no reports of any problems/issues which
is a good sign. There's even an install manual with Photo's (via URL).

If you want to use the OEM door and just add the Hinge part and Brass rod, those are also available.

They should be available on EBAY or via direct contact.

Larry
 
Tincanalley said:
I ordered some of the fiberglass eraser pens and will see about cleaning up the traces. I'll then flux the points and tin them.
Click to expand...

I don't recommend a fiberglass pen on damaged fragile traces, you may rip them off the board. I'd only recommend using rust converter chemical means to remove the corrosion and a soft cuetip soaked in it to gently remove the damaged solder mask.

I'd recommend this stuff for removing the corrosion, it works fast to neutralize battery goo and leaked capacitor electrolyte in my experience:

The active ingredient in it is phosphoric acid, it cleans up tarnished and oxidized copper really good. Just don't leave it on for longer than necessary, and keep it away from plastics and paint because it will destroy them.
 
Gigabite, the rubbing of a fiberglass pencil is very very soft. It takes several sweeps just to remove the soldermask. Have you used them before? Its not a harsh means at all, its quite delicate. It isnt going to remove traces unless they are obviously raised off the board. I use them all the time on MAcintosh II boards which are destroyed by battery leakage. They really work well in those situations.
 
VERAULT said:
Gigabite, the rubbing of a fiberglass pencil is very very soft. It takes several sweeps just to remove the soldermask. Have you used them before? Its not a harsh means at all, its quite delicate. It isnt going to remove traces unless they are obviously raised off the board. I use them all the time on MAcintosh II boards which are destroyed by battery leakage. They really work well in those situations.
Click to expand...

Yes, I've used them, which is why I don't recommend them. Solder masking in that poor of condition is going to flake off with just a cuetip, a fiberglass pen will rip it off violently.

And the reason I don't recommend them is because when a trace/pad detaches from the substrate, it doesn't always lift up. One swipe of a fiberglass pin with just a bit too much force or in the wrong direction will rip the trace/pad clean off the board. This is why I recommend chemical means like a rust converter, it's far safer and significantly reduces the chance of further damage.

I've repaired dozens of Apple logic boards that would have had hidden lifted traces and pads, in no way would I ever use a fiberglass pen on them, even a cuetip was rough on them.
 
I Understand what you are saying but I am going to dissagree. We dont know the condition yet, the OP needs to do the repair to tell us its state. If its as bad as you say and the traces crumble away they were useless anyway and bodge wires will be the only viable repair method. Cleaning up the affected area to see the level of damage makes more sense than just assuming its too far gone.
 
Well I have repaired 3 of the 4. The one I attached in an earlier post is too far gone for me to fix comfortably. I have used all the cleaners I have on hand, CLR, vinegar, Deoxit and a bit of Iron Out. I dare not try anymore as I am sure it will only make it worse. So at this point I have enough motor boards for the drives in use and will send this board out for repair to Idkraemer in the next week or so. I'd rather it done right, so I have a spare, than attempting it myself and rendering it, possibly, useless.

So now I'm onto my next task. I have one drive that will not read a working disk. I have the SM, but thought I'd ask if I should follow the troubleshooting in the SM, or if there is something I should check first that the SM would have me check further down the list. I have cleaned the heads, the motor is spinning and the stepper motor is moving the heads. I have Imagedisk, so I plan on testing the RPM and its ability to find track 0, etc. But any advice or tips would be welcome.
 
That first board, the traces are large enough that I think I'd scrape the solder mask off the damaged traces for a quarter inch or so up from the damage and solder scrap component wires over them, rather than running fly wires. You've got all kinds of room to work with there. On at least a couple of those you can probably bend the leads of the new caps over and cut to length, same as you'd do with protoboard.

That second board doesn't look too bad to me. If I were me I'd give it a little scrub with some vinegar and a toothbrush, spray it off with brake cleaner, test the continuity, and try it.
 
bladamson said:
That first board, the traces are large enough that I think I'd scrape the solder mask off the damaged traces for a quarter inch or so up from the damage and solder scrap component wires over them, rather than running fly wires. You've got all kinds of room to work with there. On at least a couple of those you can probably bend the leads of the new caps over and cut to length, same as you'd do with protoboard.

That second board doesn't look too bad to me. If I were me I'd give it a little scrub with some vinegar and a toothbrush, spray it off with brake cleaner, test the continuity, and try it.
Click to expand...
I believe everything you wrote, but my repair skill are not up to the task. If I had a few other boards that were similar, and damaged the say way, I'd try out my ability. As it stands, this board is salvageable as is, but might need more if I start messing with it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top