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Long-term survival strategies for my PC collection

paul

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2004
Messages
817
Location
New Zealand
In the "IBM PC" category, for space reasons, I've kept just two complete 5150s and one 5170 system, selected from many over the last two decades. My interest is purely as a collector, not a "user." I did the "using" in the '80s and am mostly done with that! But my three examples are in exceptionally-good and original working condition, and I wish to keep them that way.

So, I don't run these machines daily, but I do care that they are fully operational and demonstrable at a moment's notice to re-create the impressions of their time. I usually test them once a year, running them overnight, and so far the only failure has been the 5153 CGA monitor (see other thread.)

But, I'm wondering how much longer these historic machines are going to be maintainable in close to their original configurations and what can I do today to maximise their operational life for at least the next two decades? And, how often and how long do I need to run them to avoid damage from non-operation, if at all?

It amazes me that a 33-year old 5150 with belt-driven floppy drives can still work perfectly at the drop of a hat without ever having had a single repair. My '90s RISC workstations cannot match this level of reliability, despite being a decade newer.

Firing-up the AT is somewhat of another matter with fingers-crossed and Hail Mary's all around. There is so much more to go wrong and start-up is far more dramatic than the PC. The static attraction of multiple linear-actuated heads of the 30 MB Seagate ST4038 sitting firmly for long periods on polished soft oxide media cannot be ignored. When I started the AT yesterday after about six months sitting, the disk sounded like it was going through one of those random-seek tests, clearly not happy and requiring immediate shutdown. The head actuator must have had trouble homing off the disk tracks but thankfully it was fine on the next start-up.

We all know that MFM hard disks and MDA/CGA monitors don't last forever and may not be easily replaced with other maintainable technologies. Same with PC and AT power supplies and floppy disk media.

Since some monitors and most TVs (amazingly) still have 1987-vintage VGA inputs it's sensible in the near term to have compatible ISA-bus VGA cards on hand. But surely that standard will disappear soon, along with all other analog video inputs. What to do then? Even 4:3 format LED monitors are becoming rare.

Especially here in NZ, MFM hard disks are nearly unobtainable but luckily I've obtained an original spare, plus have a period-accurate SCSI full-height disk and controller as a backup.

Eventually these machines will be reduced to non-functional boxes just like we see with older computers in museums today, but it would be best to delay that as long as possible.



Aside from stashing VGA cards, 4:3 LCD monitors, Baby AT power supply internals, and floppy media, what plans do others have in this regard to continue computing at 4 MHz in the distant future?

It looks like I have to run the AT more frequently to avoid disk/head stiction, but how frequently?
 
AT power supplies are the least of your worries, unless something in them explodes and rips chunks out of the PCB, they can be repaired pretty much indefinitely. ATX power supplies can also be adapted to work with AT systems and those aren't going away any time soon. Even assuming they do, it's not hard to get the voltages that AT systems require.

LCD monitors can also be repaired. The most common point of failure on them are the CCFLs burning out, which can be replaced with LED strips and keep them going for another many years. I've done LED mods on a dozen or so LCD monitors and while it's a difficult mod to do, I never had problems with the backlight again.
 
It amazes me that a 33-year old 5150 with belt-driven floppy drives can still work perfectly at the drop of a hat without ever having had a single repair. My '90s RISC workstations cannot match this level of reliability, despite being a decade newer.
Same here with my 5150 Rev. B. Complete in it's original 1984 configuration, never repaired or any parts replaced, still working like on the first day - 5153 CGA monitor included. :) Higher integration of more modern hardware can't beat that.

There's not so much you can do to maximise its lifetime. Don't stress the hardware by letting it run for hours and hours. Keep it dust-free and don't expose it to extreme temperatures. Get a pile of replacement RAM chips, as those will fail eventually.

As for your AT, you can replace the HDD by a flash-based solution. There are even one or two available with an MFM interface, so you can keep the HDD controller card.
 
The main rule for vintage electronics is 'use'.

I've found using vintage electronics at least every month helps dramatically with mechanical items (floppies, HDD's etc). It also helps with things like capacitors which tend to lose 'conditioning' when left unpowered for great lengths of time.

Second rule is storage conditions. Electronics don't like being left in the cold conditions; mainly because moisture condenses on the IC's which leads to pretty rapid degradation. I try to keep mine in a heated room; but with ~10 of the things only 3 or 4 end up staying warm.
 
I would just keep my roms in shape, and would recommend to make backup before hand.. Data on floppy disks wont last long.. The magnectic fields would reduce over the years.. So its recommended to to rewrite them (mostly they fail after 15-20 years)
 
I would just keep my roms in shape, and would recommend to make backup before hand.. Data on floppy disks wont last long.. The magnectic fields would reduce over the years.. So its recommended to to rewrite them (mostly they fail after 15-20 years)

It's funny; I've always thought the same thing. Happily enough though I find 99% of the 5 1/4" disks which I haven't touched in 20-25+ years all work fine. The 3 1/2" disks don't seem to last as long - maybe 85% of them still work after the same timeframe.

CD-R's (and especially RW's) on the other hand seem to fail after <10 years. I found either the backing flakes off the lexan or they just don't read anymore.
 
(I've mentioned this in earlier threads already)
My old (some very old) 5 1/4" floppies are all good. Could read every one of them, except two that appear to have been somehow degaussed.
All my "HD" 3 1/2" floppies have read errors. All of them. Useless. The worst media by far, at least taking into account that one tends to have so many of them..
I have lots of 9-track CCT tapes, I could read all of them (after I cleaned the drive's head..).
As for CD's, I have seen CD-R's fail after one year of storage. I don't trust them either.

These days I do backups in triplicate as a minimum.

-Tor
 
Climate control is important. As mentioned, condensation and humidity will cause corrosion, and old capacitors can dry out or leak. Some types of wire insulation gets brittle over time, and I've seen rubber grommets and rubber shocks or stand-offs either crumble or get soft and mushy depending on humidity extremes.

Keeping dust off equipment ensures vent holes will not become clogged, and the heads on floppy drives will not accumulate dust particles which may damage the drive media.
 
Second rule is storage conditions. Electronics don't like being left in the cold conditions; mainly because moisture condenses on the IC's which leads to pretty rapid degradation.
Cold and moisture are actually two different things. Cold is no problem for electronics as long as the air is dry. Too warm is much more of a problem, as electrolytic capacitors have their lifetime halved with every additional +10 degrees. Bad places for storage: basement, garage, attic, barn/shed.
 
Outside of general use, I usually walk around and pull the power switch up at least once every three months. I usually only leave them on for 30 minutes to 2 hours though, I don't think any longer provides any advantage (but I will run them longer if I'm using them). Sometimes I go around and I will find a fault - and I'm glad I found them before multiple faults developed. I try to keep as many inside as possible, the models in the garage are only visiting temporarily - either because they need to repair work, or because they can wait until I get it insulated.

It's hard to know the right answer to that question - for me it's 3 months - but for all I know I could be doing it wrong!

With hard drives, some models seem to be more prone to failure than others I'm confident that in 10-20 years time, I'll have some that still run. I take the same approach though - keep spares on hand, and alternatives on hand as well - usually period "correct" upgrades like big MFM ,ESDI or early SCSI bricks etc. As for flash based for me personally that'll be a last resort, but for me the physical hard drive is all part of the experience / nostalgia - so I like to go out of my way to try and preserve that. I'm from NZ too, and I'd recommend watching ebay, last year I managed to find an ST-277R with controller/cables, tested, and in perfect condition out of Eastern Europe for something like $NZ40 delivered.

Most electrical parts like monitors, power supplies, motherboards - I'm not too fussed about because they're mostly serviceable - especially the gear where circuit diagrams are readily available. I used the EEVBlog forum to help me track down a fault and understand the eletronics of a clone MDA display last year. One new capacitor later and it's back in use again. Most things are repairable, it's just how much time and money you want to invest. I try to keep lots of spares to prevent too much work arriving too soon - but I never dispose of the faulty parts because I know one day, I'll have more time.

Floppy disks I keep hundreds on hand all sealed of different types. Not much I can do in that respect, just cross my fingers they don't spoil in the seal packet and keep them in drawers inside the house. They're not necessary for operation, but cool to have and quite handy at times.

The worst machines I've had to restore have been unused and/or left under a house or in a garage for 10+ years.
 
Not all electronics including the power supply, are repairable.

The issue becomes proprietary parts, or controller ICs that become obsolete. Alot of power supplies use SMPS control ICs, or even all in one power-pack STR regulators, which are long since discontinued.

thats a problem.

same thing with motherboards, you lose a VLSI, your screwed.
 
Yes, agreed, that's why I've saved the complete internals of a few Baby AT power supplies. Fortunately semiconductors seem to be comparatively reliable, as long as they are operated within the electrical and environmental specs.

I've moved my AT to a place where I can switch it on without any setup effort and will do so at least once a month. I also have to fix it's LAN access as I noticed it broke sometime since the days of WinXP when I last backed everything up. All of my collection is kept indoors and I've never had any moisture-related problems.

Another long-term item I will tackle are spares and configurations. I'm dividing up PC spares by machine in case the collection is one day separated, and will write-up one-page operating and maintenance instructions, noting that not only will today's knowledge be eventually lost, but whomever eventually inherits all this stuff in 20-30 years are even less likely to "RTFM" than I am. Just simple stuff like don't plug a 5151 mono monitor into a CGA card, or a 110 VAC item into 230 VAC.


Thanks to everyone who commented.
 
Get a pile of replacement RAM chips, as those will fail eventually.

Once a 5150's soldered DRAMs in bank 0 fail, do people replace them with DIP sockets for maintainability (in case of repeat failure down the line), or do you solder the replacements back in? Obviously socketing bank 0 does alter the condition of the machine from its original state.
 
Once a 5150's soldered DRAMs in bank 0 fail, do people replace them with DIP sockets for maintainability (in case of repeat failure down the line), or do you solder the replacements back in? Obviously socketing bank 0 does alter the condition of the machine from its original state.

If it was a pristine 5150 Model A, or I was working for a museum I'd find the original components at whatever cost and solder them in.
But as a hobbyist with a Model B that has rust spots, and a second Model B that has no lid, I'd personally go with sockets, once is enough.
 
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