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Model I Help Needed: Major Character Corruption

MattPilz

Member
Joined
May 29, 2019
Messages
12
Location
USA
I recently got a Model I (with Level II ROM daughter board, lowercase mod and some other curiosities I'll describe below) that was badly busted and banged up in transit. The exterior is problematic but most of the internals seem in-tact from my initial review, aside from the plastic risers and screw pegs. I've spent the weekend attempting to get anything out of it as it initially had no power at all, and have made really good progress.

After reseating all the socketed chips, testing the RAM and swapping one bad 4K, as well as adjusting the 12V and 5V (via R5 and R10) so they are within spec (-5V as well), I am to the point where there are visuals and it seem the ROM is good. BASIC itself seems to work in that I can CLS, print, etc.

The first problem was that the visuals were mostly indecipherable... Faded, horizontal tearing, smearing, very poor fidelity. I have confirmed the display is good as I had been using it on a different machine. (NOTE: While composing this post, I found an adjustable resistor connecting R27 to R28, and altering that cured the blur/tearing so the text is looking sharp again, albeit dimmer than it typically should be even at max contrast on the monitor and still probably an area to review more closely if I get everything else operational.)

The real problem is that all characters except for the top row are entirely corrupt, many of which resemble something not even part of the character set. However, the top row of numbers, - and * all work and display fine.



Any pointers on where I could start troubleshooting this, checking voltage on certain chips or similar? Unfortunately none of the VRAM is socketed so testing or replacing is more tedious, same with the character ROM (and I have no replacement for the character ROM).

If I remove the Z3 shunt or L2 BASIC ROM connector, it produces pulsating squares.



If I remove the Z71 shunt, it produces pulsating @/9 but they are combined and blurred, like it is double buffering or something.



Sometimes I'd get the garbage screen that'd alter between lower and higher resolution styles when I'd power off and on. But this was rare, typically it boots right up to BASIC.



A few times when I've turned it on, it started full of gibberish but then each character tile (usually starting from the bottom-right) would be replaced with a reverse L (that is also the same symbol that is entered if I type 'a'), one at a time. I caught the tail end of one such occurrence on video here, but note this is a very rare occurrence:


Toggling the lower/uppercase mod does not change any of these characters, except it then shows a box (looks like a smiley) where the current cursor is at, instead of just blank space.



A second unlabeled toggle switch connects to pin 7 of Z41 and pins 10-11 of Z42. A bodge wire runs from pin 11 of Z42 to pin 1 of Z30. When this toggle is active, any characters or white elements of the screen become black blurs... I have no idea. (Screenshot is of screen of boxes again with Z3 removed, but toggle set.)



This set also has a "Data" key, which is a user-added extra key. It has two wires, one runs to Z2 Pin 4 (Keyboard PCB) and the other to Z4 Pin 10 (Keyboard PCB). It doesn't seem to do anything, but was built with an LED underneath it (which also never lights).



Thank you for any assistance!
 
The first thing to do is make 100% sure you are not leaving the Power Supplies powered up all the time. Put them on a power
strip so they are turned off when not used.

The Character ROM is likely good, but if it isn't that's no problem. I've got lots of those decoded and we can find what is similar
to your existing Character ROM.

Start by reading this page from a Tech that has been repairing the Model 1's for several years.
http://ts-inc.dyndns.org/Diagnose%20...Model%201.html

Start with removing Z3 and see if you get the @9 display on the screen. That tells you A{0..9} is good. Next replace Z3 and
hold Break Key DEPRESSED and keep DEPRESSED and turn on POWER. You should see text message
RADIO SHACK (ROM 1.1) or R/S (ROM 1.3), when you see the display release the BREAK KEY and depress ENTER
a couple of times. The Version 1.1ROMS were bad to have lots of Keybounce.

In your case the SHACK is some graphics and Right Arrow for the "H".
The Right Arrow is 0x5E and the H is 0x48. So what is the difference in those bits? 16H = 00001 0110

0101 1110 = 0x5E Right Arrow
0100 1000 = 0x48 = H
Code:
^ ^^ These bits are different.

So let's check the first Character in SHACK
The S is 0x53 and the character displayed is a graphic 0x13

53 -13 = 0x40 = 0100 0000 So for the "S" to be displayed we need bit 6 HIGH

0101 0011 = 0x53 = S
0001 0011 = 0x13 = Graphic Graphic for 0x13 attached
Code:
^--------------------------Missing this bit.

Which is Video RAM Bit that is missing. The previous character had some extra Video RAM Bits set.

What is the type cabling to your EI? Standard Interface cable, or the Buffered Cable, or the Two cable
configuration? There were lots of problems with the EI Interface cables. Mine is standard cable.

It looks to me like your ROM is Ver 1.1 from the "Radio Shack" Message vs 1.3 that had "R/S".
I upgraded mine to Ver 1.3 ROM to have better Cassette Interface and no key bounce problems,
along with other updates.

Post the Number on your Character Generator. MCM6670, MCM6673, MCM6674.
I'm guessing your Character ROM is MCM6670.

Also, you need to open up the Keyboard unit (but make notes on where each length screw goes as
they are different lengths) and you don't need more trouble. Check the keyboard to Motherboard
cable to see if is coming apart. I'd guess it is.

Larry

Click image for larger version  Name:	RS-M1-53.png Views:	0 Size:	3.8 KB ID:	1218084 Click image for larger version  Name:	RS-M1-53.png Views:	0 Size:	3.8 KB ID:	1218084

Click image for larger version  Name:	RS-M1-48.png Views:	0 Size:	2.9 KB ID:	1218086 Click image for larger version  Name:	RS-M1-5E.png Views:	0 Size:	4.1 KB ID:	1218087
 
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The normal way to power up a TRS-80 Model 1 is:
1. Turn on the power strip
2. Turn on the floppy Drive(s) Power Suppy(s).
3. Turn on the Expansion Interface
4. DEPRESS BREAK KEY, and keep depressed, turn on Keyboard Power. (Make 100% sure the three cables are
plugged into the proper places. If not you will do lots of damage.)

5. When you see CASS? displayed on the Display, DEPRESS the ENTER key three or four times.
6. Type in ?MEM then ENTER
It should display the memory available, maybe 48082.

7. Insert Boot Floppy
8. Depress RESET to boot from Floppy.

Power UP and DOWN without floppy's in the Drives. They can get glitched.

Power Down in reverse order of system power up.

Larry
 
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Thank you for all of that valuable information, Larry. I especially appreciate that methodology for troubleshooting character garbage and faulty bits.

EI: I do not have any expansion interface hooked to it. I have one of unknown condition that I hope to test but not until I get the base machine up and running.

PSU: I have a new power supply unit by Jay Newirth which works well, though I only have it plugged in while using or testing. I also have an original PSU that seems okay.

Z3: When I remove Z3, the third picture I shared is what appears. It appears to be the pulsating as expected but each tile/character looks to be a combination of both characters in one, or similar.

Character Generator: The chip in Z29 is a 3108001/8046670 (dated 7806). I've read elsewhere that this chip is what Radio Shack used and was identical to 6674 except it contains four arrow glyphs.

Keyboard Ribbon: Although I haven't checked continuity, the original ribbon cable is still seemingly in-tact and the keys do all seem to at least function that I've tested. However, I plan to replace it with a 20 pin socket and new cable I just didn't want to embark on that until I can thoroughly test the rest of the components which may require typing.

I do also have a new lower case mod from Ian, but would need to clearly understand the existing lower case mod and what it affects before I would consider switching to Ian's.

I hope to add sockets to the video RAM in the near future for easier testing, but am awaiting a few desoldering tools to assist with that.
 
Here is what I have decoded for MODEL, but I think you need to try booting to Cassette basic, with the switch in one position,
the switch it to the other position and reboot to Cassette basic.

Code:
Displays 0x12 0x01 0x04 0x5E 0x0F
0001 0010 0000 0001 0000 0100 0101 1110 0000 1111

8421 8421 8421 8421 8421 8421 8421 8421 8421 8421

Should be 0x4D 0x4F 0x44 0x45 0x4C
0100 1101 0100 1111 0100 0100 0100 0101 0100 1100

M O D E L

Notice for the "D" there is only one missing bit 0x04 versus 0x44.

Boot with the switch in each position and post a photo of each display.


Larry
 
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