Troubleshooting a Socket 7 Motherboard

[Plasma]

Well it sounds like your PSU has a problem then...all the voltages should be lit.

The codes on the diagnostic card are not error codes, but POST codes. At each step of the power on self test (POST), a code is output to indicate the progress. If the board hangs, the last code output will show where it stopped testing.

The Award BIOS POST codes are here. I think you will want to look at either the PnP or Elite versions.

 

[onesimus]

Well it sounds like your PSU has a problem then...all the voltages should be lit.

The codes on the diagnostic card are not error codes, but POST codes. At each step of the power on self test (POST), a code is output to indicate the progress. If the board hangs, the last code output will show where it stopped testing.

The Award BIOS POST codes are here. I think you will want to look at either the PnP or Elite versions.

Yeah I essentially meant POST codes. It came with a booklet that aligns with what was at the link. Just to clarify, the 3.3v light will come on during the times that it outputs video and I get a code, just not when I get the dashes and no video. I can turn it on and it work, then without moving or even touching anything, turn it back on and get nothing.

 

[Plasma]

Yes, you get nothing because it needs 3.3v to boot. It's likely your PSU is putting out something on the very edge of the spec like 2.9v. You should check it with your meter.

Edit: Nevermind, I see the board has AT power input which is only 12 and 5V. The issue is going to be with the onboard regulation then.

 

[onesimus]

Yes, you get nothing because it needs 3.3v to boot. It's likely your PSU is putting out something on the very edge of the spec like 2.9v. You should check it with your meter.

Edit: Nevermind, I see the board has AT power input which is only 12 and 5V. The issue is going to be with the onboard regulation then.

Even if when I get video and everything it stays on indefinitely? For instance, I have it putting out video right now and it's hung on the ram count with a blinking cursor.

EDIT: Just to add, I've tried every ram configuration under the sun, cache and no cache, all kinds of ways.

 

[onesimus]

UPDATE: cleaning/moving around the BIOS chip has gotten it to turn on MUCH more consistently and I'm able to consistently turn it on and off and play around with it (to some extent) at this point. Unfortunately, I only have a model F keyboard for my 5150 that I can plug into it which is detected but it seems to be typing garbage or there is some sort of incompatibility, plus I don't have arrow keys so I can't manipulate the BIOS options.

There are early USB headers on the board which is 1.0 I think, but I only have USB 2.0 ports available to plug into it which doesn't seem to be working either way that I plug it in (as in plugging it in, then turning it upside down).

So I'm THINKING I've solved the problem, but I can't say for sure just yet until I get all the ram back into it. There is still the keyboard issue, but that can be taken care of by finding some 1.0 ports for sale or around here somewhere.

Do you have a multimeter? If so, check the main voltage lines on the board (eg, CPU and BIOS ROM have power?)

Try to reseat the BIOS, be careful if you're not experienced, if need help on this, just ask.
Try white eraser on the RAM pins.

I found the manual, do not think will be much of a help.
manual, jumpers, info

Would like to thank @lucasdaytona for suggesting this!

I still would like to ask lastly since it's mentioned in this quote, what is a good homemade chip remover? The BIOS chip is stuck in there pretty tightly and I all but destroyed an AMD 8088 when I removed it recently.

 

[modem7]

I still would like to ask lastly since it's mentioned in this quote, what is a good homemade chip remover? The BIOS chip is stuck in there pretty tightly and I all but destroyed an AMD 8088 when I removed it recently.

For chips in DIL packages, I use a blade screwdriver. Ease the chip up a little at one end, up a little at the other end, back to the first end, and so on, in a kind of rocking motion. In doing that, sometimes, the shaft of the screwdriver is resting up against another chip. Sometimes, a very thin bladed screwdriver is required to start off the process (i.e. get between the chip and its socket)

 

[onesimus]

For chips in DIL packages, I use a blade screwdriver. Ease the chip up a little at one end, up a little at the other end, back to the first end, and so on, in a kind of rocking motion. In doing that, sometimes, the shaft of the screwdriver is resting up against another chip. Sometimes, a very thin bladed screwdriver is required to start off the process (i.e. get between the chip and its socket)

gotcha, that's pretty much the solution I'd come up with on my own. Good to know that this is a viable option. I'll probably take the chip out and clean it some more to the best of my ability. Wish I had some deoxit but I'll work with what I have. Thanks guys, I believe I'm saved from having to buy another socket 7 board!

 

[eswan]

Back in the day, I always used an isa slot cover to pull chips. Always had one at hand, and the right angle bit makes it easy to get in cramped spots.

A 5150 (PC orXT) keyboard is going to be incompatible with anything 286 (AT) or newer.

 

[onesimus]

Back in the day, I always used an isa slot cover to pull chips. Always had one at hand, and the right angle bit makes it easy to get in cramped spots.

A 5150 (PC orXT) keyboard is going to be incompatible with anything 286 (AT) or newer.

Yeah I've been trying for the last couple of days to figure out the best solution for a keyboard right now since I won't be able to buy anything for a while. I have the following to work with: an DIN-5 keyboard port, a PS/2 "mouse" header which I'm not sure is exclusively for a mouse or not, and these two 1x5 USB headers which I haven't been able to get to work with a couple of ports taken from another machine.