Short of replacing the cable, no. All of my SLT/286s have this problem, but strangely enough, both of my 386s/20s have perfect cables with nice, flexible rubber still. Getting the length on the able right would be critical because of the cable has to fit in the little space behind the keyboard. Also, the coiled part of the cable would have to be the same diameter.
Also, another thing I forgot to mention is that if you have the original hard drive (Conner CP 3021, 3021i or 3041), check and make sure the gasket has not melted. If it has melted, don't use it until this as been corrected, as it could ruin the drive.
To fix this issue, remove the cover (these old drives are pretty tolerant to dust, so don't worry), clean ALL of the goop out of there, reinstall the cover, and seal the drive all around with silicone.
Another common-killer of these drive is the piece of insulating foam between the circuit board and the drive's housing deteriorates, causing the board to short out. Once this happens, the drive will no longer spin or anything. It basically kills the PCB. To fix this, take the PCB off and get all of the old foam out. Then, take some cardstock paper, cut it to the right size and there you go, you now have a new insulator.
If your drive has already shorted out and is not spinning, you'll need a new PCB.
The foam for the PCB is a given, replace that no matter what before you use the machine. For the gasket, as said above you'll have to check it. You'll know if it has melted or not because you'll see a browinish colored goo all around the drive.
I've got a drive that I have done all of these thing to, and so far it has been working fine (not even any bad sectors).