bettablue
Veteran Member
Recently, as some of you know, I had just lost my favorite keyboard doe to a bad controller. :curse: So, I asked about getting a few parts to resurrect the keyboard so ?I can put it back into daily use. Well, that failed, so I ended up purchasing another model M keyboard. I definitely got a great deal on it, so I'm overall pleased. The "new" keyboard is due to arrive as early as Monday! :yinyang:
Now here's where the mod question comes in. Many of you know what a bolt mod is, and many of you dont. To assist, let me give you a short description. Bolt modding a Model M keyboard is simply replacing all of the small brittle plastic rivets holding the internal layers of the keyboard together with nuts and bolts. This is done primarily because over time, a lot of these plastic rivets break. The keyboard begins to sound somewhat "Pingy" and there is a bit more give in the back plane. Replacing all of the plastic rivets with nuts and bolts gives the keyboard a new stability, and sturdy feel. Even the sound of key activation is different. A Bolt Modded Model M can also sell for over $100.00! :cool3:
Question. While this was all brought up in another thread, another member mentioned using number 20 self tapping screws in lieu of the complete nut and bolt job. I have however come up with a better solution.. One in which comprises elements of both methods of making the keyboard solid again. In Tom's Mod, all but the outer 4 rivets are replaced with the self tapping screws. Of course, pilot holes must be drilled into the black plastic layer to avoid splitting this layer. The corners would still use the standard nut and bolt mod. This would speed the process of strengthening the keyboard, AND, it will allow for more accurate and quicker alignment of all of the internal layers prior to final assembly.
What are your thoughts on this. I am eventually probably going to need to do this mod on the model M I'm receiving Monday. :frankenstein: Chuck G What size drill did you use to make your pilot holes for the #20 screws, and how long were the screws you used in your Model M repairs?
Thanks everyone. (Especially :bow2: Chuck G for giving me the idea for this mod.)
Now here's where the mod question comes in. Many of you know what a bolt mod is, and many of you dont. To assist, let me give you a short description. Bolt modding a Model M keyboard is simply replacing all of the small brittle plastic rivets holding the internal layers of the keyboard together with nuts and bolts. This is done primarily because over time, a lot of these plastic rivets break. The keyboard begins to sound somewhat "Pingy" and there is a bit more give in the back plane. Replacing all of the plastic rivets with nuts and bolts gives the keyboard a new stability, and sturdy feel. Even the sound of key activation is different. A Bolt Modded Model M can also sell for over $100.00! :cool3:
Question. While this was all brought up in another thread, another member mentioned using number 20 self tapping screws in lieu of the complete nut and bolt job. I have however come up with a better solution.. One in which comprises elements of both methods of making the keyboard solid again. In Tom's Mod, all but the outer 4 rivets are replaced with the self tapping screws. Of course, pilot holes must be drilled into the black plastic layer to avoid splitting this layer. The corners would still use the standard nut and bolt mod. This would speed the process of strengthening the keyboard, AND, it will allow for more accurate and quicker alignment of all of the internal layers prior to final assembly.
What are your thoughts on this. I am eventually probably going to need to do this mod on the model M I'm receiving Monday. :frankenstein: Chuck G What size drill did you use to make your pilot holes for the #20 screws, and how long were the screws you used in your Model M repairs?
Thanks everyone. (Especially :bow2: Chuck G for giving me the idea for this mod.)
