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5.25" Hard Sector Floppies

Quick poll,

How many would like to build the board themselves: I provide the board, a programmed processor, and a parts list at Digi-Key. The board would be slightly larger to accommodate thru-hole parts.

Or, the board is completely assembled, tested, and ready to go, a bit smaller, but of course, more expensive.

Mike

Assembled and tested for me, please!

smp
 
Quick poll,

How many would like to build the board themselves: I provide the board, a programmed processor, and a parts list at Digi-Key. The board would be slightly larger to accommodate thru-hole parts.

Or, the board is completely assembled, tested, and ready to go, a bit smaller, but of course, more expensive.

Mike

I can build the board myself.

BTW, put me down for a second board.

Chuck
 
Quick poll,

How many would like to build the board themselves: I provide the board, a programmed processor, and a parts list at Digi-Key. The board would be slightly larger to accommodate thru-hole parts.

Or, the board is completely assembled, tested, and ready to go, a bit smaller, but of course, more expensive.

Mike

I vote for built-it-myself, I've built several of the N8VEM SBCs so a floppy adapter shouldn't be a big deal.

Will the board be able to interface to the floppy systems that use a card-edge connection instead of pins like the Micropolis drives in a Vector MZ?
 
Hi Mike,
I vote for the bare board with processor and a list of parts. I like to build stuff & have a well stocked parts cabinet. Thanks for considering it as an option.
Jeff
 
The board has two 34 pin headers on it for use with IDC sockets. The board can be in-line (i.e., cable from FDC to board, cable from board to floppies), or "T" connected to the existing cable (i.e., original cable from FDC to floppies with and IDC socket pressed onto the cable somewhere along its length; this single socket connects into the board).

Mike
 
I'd hate to have to open and reseal large quantities of floppy disks, but I wonder how hard it would be to build a punch to convert disks to hard-sector.

Actually, come to think of it, a single punch could be fitted into a modified floppy drive, so it wouldn't be necessary to open the disk. That sure would be a fun project if I had the time.
 
Is most everyone planning on using this for North Star controllers? How many need it for a Micropolis floppy controller?

The details are long and boring, but the Micropolis controller presents a problem in one particular corner-case related to drive selection that may not be solvable with the board itself.

Mike
 
Is most everyone planning on using this for North Star controllers? How many need it for a Micropolis floppy controller?

The details are long and boring, but the Micropolis controller presents a problem in one particular corner-case related to drive selection that may not be solvable with the board itself.

Mike

I am looking for 1 board for use with a Micropolis controller, and 1 that may be used with either the Micropolis controller or the later Vector controller with the 16 sector Tandon drives.
 
Is most everyone planning on using this for North Star controllers? How many need it for a Micropolis floppy controller?

The details are long and boring, but the Micropolis controller presents a problem in one particular corner-case related to drive selection that may not be solvable with the board itself.

Mike

Northstar - Pls put me down for 2 bds, as already rqstd--thanks!

gwk
 
I have an answer for the Micropolis controller problem (same applies to the Vector Graphic HD/FD controller for the 16 hard sector Tandon drives). The board will have to used in-line with these controllers (i.e., one cable from FDC to the board, another cable from the board to the drives). Using a single connector in the middle of the drive cable (the "T" option) won't work.

This board should also work with the Altair minidisk system (16 hard sectors), and from what I can tell so far, with the
Heathkit systems (10 hard sectors).

To work reliably with most any controller/drive combination, there will be a 9v battery holder on the back side of the board for power. A single battery should last a year or two. No on/off switch is required, it will power itself on and off based on whether the host computer is powered on.

Mike
 
I have an answer for the Micropolis controller problem (same applies to the Vector Graphic HD/FD controller for the 16 hard sector Tandon drives). The board will have to used in-line with these controllers (i.e., one cable from FDC to the board, another cable from the board to the drives). Using a single connector in the middle of the drive cable (the "T" option) won't work.

This board should also work with the Altair minidisk system (16 hard sectors), and from what I can tell so far, with the
Heathkit systems (10 hard sectors).

To work reliably with most any controller/drive combination, there will be a 9v battery holder on the back side of the board for power. A single battery should last a year or two. No on/off switch is required, it will power itself on and off based on whether the host computer is powered on.

Mike

One question Mike - if this board is installed, will the drives still work with a 16-sector floppy? Or is it "all or nothing"?

Edit: Nevermind, I see from the original post that you already answered this and the drives will work transparently with either type of disc.
 
Board is here! Made it through hole to make it easier for people to build their own. Now to port the prototype code from a PIC24FJ256 to the PIC16F1824 on this board.

Mike

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