• Please review our updated Terms and Rules here

Amiga 2000 - new to me

It doesn't look to bad to me when it comes to battery leakage corrosion not inside of a mac. I don't know hat the hell everyone else is going on about.
I mean, a lot of the components along the edge like the disc capacitors are typically pretty robust. The only place I see concern from those photos is the light corrosion on the 68000 and the Kickstart 1.3 ROM

I had a similar machine show up with a friend in 2014. We actually lost one of the sockets on the CPU socket. Did get it running though after the CPU socket was scrubbed with iso and the broken pin socket kludged with some solder.
 
The point is, although you could clean it up and kludge it to work (and whoever ends up keeping it should do so), for $300, you shouldn't have to. Amiga 2000s aren't that valuable -- at least not yet.
 
The last one I worked on looked better than that one and had severe damage.

Typically when I get them they don't look that bad but still need three sockets and two chips, at the minimum.

In my opinion, whatever it's worth, $300 is a fully working A2000 that has already had battery damage repaired, with a new battery, an A2091 and 100M hard drive, 6M RAM, a keyboard with no obvious damage and no keys missing, and a good working monitor.
 
vwestlife said:
The point is, although you could clean it up and kludge it to work (and whoever ends up keeping it should do so), for $300, you shouldn't have to. Amiga 2000s aren't that valuable -- at least not yet.
Click to expand...

Oh, I'm aware of that.
However try and persuade people at Amibay this is true. ;)
 
rittwage said:
Yes, but I tried it last night as a test, and it was not an option. It may only be for certain types of items. The rules can be different.
Click to expand...

Different categories have different condition options. For example "for parts or not working" wouldn't make any sense when you're selling clothes. :)
 
Well since 2003, a great number of people believe that clothes can malfunction. So logic says then that they could be not working. And of course you could always use them for parts to repair or make other clothes...
 
KC9UDX said:
Well since 2003, a great number of people believe that clothes can malfunction...
Click to expand...

They call it a "wardrobe malfunction"...

I put the machine back together, i.e. power supply, mobo, FD, keyboard and mouse connected as a system. Left the cards out for this test. Attached a 1902A monitor to the Amiga's mono video port; although I have 1084s I do not have the 23-pin video cable. Crossed my fingers and powered up. Nothing. Fan didn't even spin, so I have a $330 doorstop.

I understand the controversy over returns; if you're a seller you hate them. I also understand the controversy over pricing; if you're a seller you want the most money you can get for your goods or services. My eBay feedback rating, for well over 400 transactions, is 100%. Since 2001. Only a handful of those transactions were sales on my part, and when I do put something up for sale I list it at a dollar with no reserve and let the market decide what to pay. I also list (and show) its condition accurately, noting any defects, and will have tested whatever is for sale to be sure it is operational. If it isn't I will try to offer a diagnosis of what is needed to restore operation.

I understand the risk involved in purchasing items unseen. As noted above, I have purchased plenty of them. Some were lucky finds, some were immediately trashed, some were fair deals, some were overpays for what was received. I always leave positive feedback, but once in a while I contact the seller, through channels, to note a discrepancy or a DOA. Most sellers are understanding, once in a while you meet resistance. Sometimes you are dealing with a young person who is just starting out and who has made an honest mistake. I can't know motives so I prefer not to leave negative feedback as it damages the seller. Corporations? Fair game. Politicians? Let 'em have it. Seventeen-year-old kid? Well...

This is my eighth Commodore, my third Amiga, but my first 2000. I had been looking for one for over two years. Two I bought new in the 1980s, the rest were acquired second-hand, along with a host of peripherals and software. I have always had an appreciation for Commodore computers - from a design aspect - and pity for Commodore Business Machines, from a business point of view. "They could'a been a contender".

So I have decided I will keep my doorstop and do whatever is necessary to revive it; it will receive the honorific "Frank", as I'm guessing it will resemble Frankenstein's creature by the time I'm finished. I think that's more than fair to the seller.

Thanks for your suggestions,

-CH-
 
First, disconnect the power supply from all loads, plug it in, and see if the fan spins; it sounds like you have a short. Or, a dead power supply, which is a relatively easy fix.

Second, wash the motherboard with light soap and water. Remove all chips, and stickers, first. Use compressed air, or a strong fan to dry it. Then it will be easier to see exactly how much corrosion there is.
 
Thank you, KC9UDX.

The power supply, when disconnected from the mobo and drive, powers up and produces >+11.8 VDC, approx. -12VDC and >+5.1 VDC. Also about 2.5V at the brown wire on the end of the motherboard connector. Is that actually a half-wave pulse, i.e. "the tick"?

Have all but one screw removed from the motherboard; rusted, may have to cut a slot in the head to turn it.

More to come...

-CH-
 
I don't know what colour the wire is but you're probably right that it's brown, but it's a clock line, not power.

So the power supply works. That means you have a short, which you can isolate, be it in the motherboard, or something else. Plug things in one at a time and see which kills the power supply.
 
Removed the final screw and then the bottom tray under the motherboard. There is a little rusting on the inside of the tray around the ports but overall clean. Motherboard bottom looks good with the following exceptions: evidence of a few repairs and some discoloration around the battery area.

Pictures attached.

-CH-

A2000R6.2_19.jpg A2000R6.2_16.jpg A2000R6.2_21.jpg A2000R6.2_23.jpg
 
Cleaned cases; more evidence of leakage. Verified Quantum SCSI HD responds to controller, identifies as ID 6, media verified. Cleaned motherboard.

-CH-

Pics:

A2000R6.2_30.jpg A2000R6.2_31.jpg A2000R6.2_32.jpg A2000R6.2_33.jpg
 
Board repopulated; some chips had bent pins; Denise lost the last pin (48?) due to one too many realignments. I cobbled together a solution 'til a replacement arrives.

Power supply starts with repopulated motherboard (no peripherals) attached.

-CH-

Pics:
A2000R6.2_35.jpg A2000R6.2_36.jpg A2000R6.2_37.jpg
 
In that configuration, just power supply and motherboard, does the power LED show any activity other than powering on?

That is, does it
1) turn on immediately on power up and always stay the same brightness
2) turn on immediately and after a short delay brighten
3) ever flash bright/dim, and if so after 1 or 2 above?

What version Kickstart ROM do you have?

What do you see on a composite monitor, if you can plug one in to the monochrome jack?

Do you get a raster? What colour is it? Does the colour ever change? (Brightness in stead of colour if monochrome.)
 
Upon disassembly I had disconnected the power LED and did not attach it for this test. I was trying to be as granular as possible with my testing, but also was unaware of the diagnostic capabilities of the LED. Still cleaning and reassembling but will check this once all is assembled.

Right now I have the motherboard back in its tray and the tray in the chassis. The ten short screws that secure the board are in place. I had to re-tap a few of the stand-offs near the battery due to corrosion and find a few replacement screws in my parts bin. I read that they are M4.

I am puzzled by the longer screws that secure the board at the RS-232 port and the mouse port, however. One side threads in to the chassis, the other does not, and I can't figure out why. Could you point me to a diagram or illustration?

Thanks.

-CH-
 
If I were you, I wouldn't screw anything together just yet.

I'm not sure what you mean about the longer screws, I've not run into problems with them that I can recall.
 
clh333 said:
IC is labeled SHARP 315093-02 CBM 1988. Reference says this is Kickstart 1.3 ROM.

-CH-
Click to expand...

Those still have progressive boot diagnostic colours which were eliminated in I think 3.0.

So your boot screen colour should go black, dark grey, light grey, white, if everything is working.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top