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DOS lives on!!

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2011
Messages
2,303
Location
East Tennessee
Wyse WY-1100
8088 processor
ST-225 Hard drive
360K 5.25 floppy drive

(35 dollars plus shipping)
632361123409.jpg


Generic 486 system
CD-ROM, 1.2mb 5.25, 3.5 floppy drive
Unknown amount of RAM
DOS 6.22
(35 dollars plus shipping)

486 motherboard
Unknown amount of RAM
Barrel battery has small leakage.
(10 dollars plus shipping)
 
I think it'll sell and hate to bug ya but do you have any other picture of the system like the back? I'm really just intrigued lol, I love when vendors stray away from their norm and test the PC market.
 
Sale pending for the Wyse computer. The other two items are still available.

I also have a TRS-80 Color Computer 2 with the manual and tapes. I haven't tested it.
$20.00 plus shipping.
 
$5 for a board with leakage, i would, i've had bad experience with battery leakage recently, it you were to say, find a way to clean it and replace the barrel with another one, like a coin cell, you'd prolly get a few takers.
 
Does cleaning it actually make any real difference (other than cosmetic)? Doesn't the possible damage run deeper than that? I have several boards with this problem and even after a thouough cleaning they are still quite dead.
 
Does cleaning it actually make any real difference (other than cosmetic)? Doesn't the possible damage run deeper than that? I have several boards with this problem and even after a thouough cleaning they are still quite dead.

Cleaning allows you to see any damage and prevents the acid from continuing to go further. Higher quality motherboards are more likely to have an extra layer above traces and therefore have a good chance to still be working. Even if the damage has cut traces, it is possible to repair the traces in some cases. If the damage creates a hole through the motherboard, the motherboard is only useful for harvesting parts from the undamaged sections.
 
This is a good opportunity to remind people about the Vintage Computer Marketplace:


I've been pretty successful cleaning out my excess parts over the past two years. Unfortunately, I've also added to my excess parts too. ;-0

No fees, courtesy of Erik ...
 
What do you think is the most effective method to clean the blue-green mess that a leaky battery has made? I'm actually asking for the best solvent.
I usually do 3 to 4 steps... first, I clean whatever's visible as much as is possible using alcohol/wipes/toothpicks/toothbrush/etc - this sometimes includes scraping away the mask level of the motherboard, so if you think you might have to change any components or desolder any chips, take a photo first. After the initial cleaning, I take a weak acid such as lemon juice, and I scrub the hell out of the board and a generous surrounding area with lemon juice and the toothbrush to deactivate the acid. By this point, I've usually a pretty good idea what's damaged, and whether any desoldering or replacement of components are necessary. If it needs it, do it. If not, clean it again with the alcohol and toothbrush/cotton. Hopefully, if the damage was minor, you're done... but if not, wash/repeat until it's clean.

My usual rule of thumb: if the machine works prior to cleaning, then it usually means that the traces aren't gone and we can continue on. But be CAREFUL if you have to scrape. I have an A3000 that I got for a song, worked nicely, but upon opening it up, I saw the absolute worse battery leakage ever - I had around a 2" rounded area of mask that was just flapping in the breeze with bluish-green spatter everywhere around the battery area! Thankfully, there was a huge copper plane underneath the worst of the damage, and after EXTENSIVE cleaning, it's working great. Even though the scraped away mask over around a 3-4" square area looks horrible. Meanwhile, I've a rev 6.2 A2000 motherboard that barely had any leakage or visible damage that won't boot before or after the battery change. Initially, it appeared that the 68000 socket was bad on a few pins (one corner is really close to the lithium cell), so I desoldered and replaced the socket, cleaning the through-holes as I went, then popped in some known-good 68000's. No go. I've since chip-swapped all chips from a known-good board, with the last remaining chip (the PLCC Agnus) not having yet been swapped. I'm hopeful that I've just got a bad Agnus (I just hate pulling PLCC stuff -always, always afraid I'll damage the chips).

I wouldn't bother going through this trouble with a run-of-the-mill clone board, but something with some worth, either sentimental, collectible, or monetary... yeah. It's worth it. Even if you have to scrape the board, you can always make it look pretty again with some spray mask.

And besides... the satisfaction level goes through the roof if you can do this to a non-working board and make it live again :)
 
Leakage is barely noticeable in that picture. If it's just a bit fuzzy at the edges of the cell, it should be a really easy snip-n-clean.
 
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