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WTB - Tandy parallel printer lead for Model 4 (or 1/2/3!) - UK

1

1980s_john

Experienced Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2005
Messages
364
Location
UK
Hi,
I've got a Model 4 which has an edge connector for a parallel printer, and a Tandy DMP-420 printer with a Centronics connector, but not the lead to connect the two. Has anyone got one for sale please, who could post it to the UK? I can pay via Paypal.

I understand the pin-out for Tandy printers is different to IBM/Epson as it uses the original Centronics pin-out (see http://www.8bit-micro.com/printcable.htm), I think any Tandy cable with the edge connector one end and Centronics the other end would be OK.

I also assume the edge connector was the same for the model 1 (expansion unit), 2, 3 and 4 as it would be v. strange if it differed.

Regards,
John
 
Last edited:
I've got a Model 4 and a Tandy printer, and I have to admit I've never hooked the printer up to that computer.

So, I guess I need to make myself a cable (I can make a couple if you want).

When I looked at the article you provided a link to, and then looked at a Tandy DMP-106 and a DMP-110 manual, I see some things slightly different to what that the chart in the article shows.
EG: 31 = reset in one case, not connected in the other two.
Are they talking about the same thing?

Here's the two Tandy docs:

View attachment DMP-110.pdf

View attachment DMP-106.pdf
 
I have a Tandy DPM-130. The original cable was an 'edge connector' type which supported the 1000SX. I also have a regular printer cable which is a standard RS-232, which lets me use the DMP-130 on any pc. However, I believe there is a caveat on that setup. I think you have to wrap a piece of tape around pin 37 (not sure of the pin number) on the printer side. Give me a day or so and I can verify the Tandy part numbers. Tandy did a lot of weird things early on and may be a contributing factor as to why they're in in the pc business today. The bottom line is that if Tandy marketed the part, somewhere they along the line they were going to modify it just enough to get you po'd. Usually you can figure out what they have done and work around it without too much bother.
 
I use a ribbon cable with the "smash on" connectors at each end. As for a source for the connectors, it is anybody's guess. The Centronics end has an Amphenol part number of 57F-36. The other end, on my cable is a T&B 8916. When making the cable, pins 18 and 36 of the Centronix end are left open. This cable was used with an Epson MX-80.
 
Agent Orange said:
I have a Tandy DPM-130. The original cable was an 'edge connector' type which supported the 1000SX.
Click to expand...

Was that cable made from flat ribbon cable like the one in the 8Bit-Micro article (or was it round cable)?

I was getting confused thinking about making a cable because I kept thinking about the IBM differences, but who cares? From the model 4 to the printer; pin 1 is pin 1, pin 10 is pin 10, etc, etc - there's no twists req'd - it's just straight through.

If I'm looking at this correctly, all you need is some 36 pin ribbon cable, with a 34 pin card edge connector at one end, and a 36 pin male centronics on the other. Piece of cake, and takes less than 5 minutes to make.
The only weird bit is that between the two PDFs I attached above, one has pins 35 and 36 as not connected, while the other has pin 35 as not connected but pin 36 as "test". Between a 36 pin centronics and a 34 pin card edge, there's going to be two conductors that aren't used, but which two should it be?

The centronics connector would be a Jameco part # 13849 (manuf = Jameco valuePro, manuf part # = GC012R)
 
BillB3857 said:
When making the cable, pins 18 and 36 of the Centronix end are left open.
Click to expand...

18 and 36 ?
According to the two printer docs attached above, 18 is supposed to be +5V.
You sure it's not 35 and 36 ?


EDIT: it's 18 and 36 on the centronics connector, but it's 35 and 36 on the ribbon cable or card edge connector (because there is no 35 or 36 on the card edge).
A 36 pin centronics goes 1 to 18 on the top, and 19 to 36 on the bottom, while a 34 pin card edge goes 1 to 33 (odd numbers only) on the top, and 2 to 34 (even numbers only) on the bottom. (The pin functions all match up fine on the Model 4 schematic for the card edge connector).
It's just another bass ackward numbering scheme developed by one of that bunch of electronics engineers that escaped from the insane asylum.
 
Last edited:
Thanks Lorne

Lorne said:
If I'm looking at this correctly, all you need is some 36 pin ribbon cable, with a 34 pin card edge connector at one end, and a 36 pin male centronics on the other. Piece of cake, and takes less than 5 minutes to make.
Click to expand...

..if you have the right tools and hopefully the right tools. If you can make one and it works with one or both of your Tandy printers then I'd buy one :)

Regards,
John
 
I think I have an extra one. Here is an attached picture of it. If you want it let me know and then I will need you address in the UK. Please send that info to me by PM. :D
Oh and Lorne, This cable is missing connections at pins 35 and 36 at the centronics end.
Frank
 

Attachments

  • 100_0479.jpg
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Chromedome45 said:
Oh and Lorne, This cable is missing connections at pins 35 and 36 at the centronics end.
Frank
Click to expand...

Weird.
It would make more sense to have 18 and 36 not connected at the centronics end because those would be the last two conductors on the ribbon cable, as they would mate up with 35 & 36 on the 34 pin card edge connector which of course is missing those two conductors anyway.

Please view the following attachment.

View attachment Cable pin outs.pdf

Have I got something wrong?
It looks like 17, 18, 35 & 36 could be deleted on the centronics end, and 33 through 36 could be deleted on the card edge end.
What am I missing? (I'm always missing something)
 
1980s_john said:
Thanks Lorne



..if you have the right tools and hopefully the right tools. If you can make one and it works with one or both of your Tandy printers then I'd buy one :)

Regards,
John
Click to expand...

A bench vise works very well to "smash" the IDC connectors to flat cable. Just make sure everything is PERFECTLY ALIGNED before the crunch. The retainer bar will have a washboard surface that will help with the alignment.
 
Chromedome45 said:
I think I have an extra one. Here is an attached picture of it. If you want it let me know and then I will need you address in the UK. Please send that info to me by PM. :D
Oh and Lorne, This cable is missing connections at pins 35 and 36 at the centronics end.
Frank
Click to expand...
centronics2.jpg

Your connector must be a non-standard configuration. I'm trying to attach a photo of my connector. We'll see if it makes it.
 
No Lorne you and BillB3857 are right my bad it is 18 and 36. Looked at it wrong... but it is definately at the Centronics end where they are not connected.
 
Chromedome45 said:
but it is definately at the Centronics end where they are not connected.
Click to expand...

Which makes one wonder why they're connected even at one end.
If you've got a 34 pin edge card, and a 36 pin centronics, why not use a 34 conductor ribbon cable?
I mean, if the conductors aren't connected at the other end, why have them in the first place?
Seems like a waste of two conductors to me. (this what you call value engineering in the construction industry - just saved two conductors out of 36, and that's a 5.6% cost saving)
 
Lorne said:
If you've got a 34 pin edge card, and a 36 pin centronics, why not use a 34 conductor ribbon cable?
Click to expand...
The ribbon cable type of tandy cables I have only use 34 pin cable. And I believe the odds and evens were initially set up on opposite sides to provide some shielding. You know, in the cable. Each signal has a ground on either side of it.
 
1980s_john said:
Thanks Lorne



..if you have the right tools and hopefully the right tools. If you can make one and it works with one or both of your Tandy printers then I'd buy one :)

Regards,
John
Click to expand...

Check your PMs.
Do you want one made (if so, how long?) or are you grabbing one of the others that were offered?
 
Lorne said:
Check your PMs.
Do you want one made (if so, how long?) or are you grabbing one of the others that were offered?
Click to expand...

Thanks for the offer, as per PM I'll go with you please Lorne.

Thanks to everyone else who offerred too - you're all very kind.

Regards,
John
 
leeb said:
I know I had seen one on Ebay for around $15 (US)...

Likely still available.

Good luck! :D
Click to expand...

I use a ribbon cable with the "smash on" connectors at each end. As for a source for the connectors, it is anybody's guess. The Centronics end has an Amphenol part number of 57F-36. The other end, on my cable is a T&B 8916. When making the cable, pins 18 and 36 of the Centronix end are left open. This cable was used with an Epson MX-80.

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