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8-Bit IDE Controller

Ok. I now tried 2 other adresses and it shows that that it writes with a progress bar and when finished it says "cannot verificate contents" or something like that. When i restart nothing happens. I will try all the possible adresses
 
I suspect you still have a bad solder joint, so this little experiment is not the final fix.
Especially if the pin is floating, the flash utility could have a very hard time writing and then reading back to verify the data.

You may also want to move this topic into the "xtide tech support thread" to get a broader audience on figuring out the problem.
 
hargle said:
I suspect you still have a bad solder joint, so this little experiment is not the final fix.
Especially if the pin is floating, the flash utility could have a very hard time writing and then reading back to verify the data.

You may also want to move this topic into the "xtide tech support thread" to get a broader audience on figuring out the problem.
Click to expand...

Maybe if Cauldron could post a very clear high res photo of the solder side of his board w/o any glare, it would help.
 
OK I solved it. I had some very bad solder connections everywhere!!! Now my AMSTRAD boots from a HD!! Wow! I used a SEAGATE ST52520A - 2564 MB. Tell me where should i post my photos :D:D
 
Congrats on finding your bad solder joints and getting it playing!

What I normally do for pics it put up on the web someplace, and then link to them here. But I just attached this (off topic) pic to see how it's done using the forum's provided attachment space.

Click Reply to the post, then Go Advanced.

Then click on the Attachment icon, which looks like a paperclip.
From there an Upload Manager came up. I just clicked around in Upload Manager and it's straightforward enough.

Click the thumbnail here to see a larger image.
8087-IBM.jpg

Bill
 
Where is the correct place to post suggestions for hardware changes on the next rev of the board?
 
i don't know if there is a correct place, so here will do.
you won't be the first to suggest changes in this uber thread, so go for it!
 
I have a suggestion. It seems the drill holes in the card are for 9202 keystone bracket holes... but where to get them? Jameco doesn't have them. Digikey has them but they are on back order and charge $8 more dollars while you wait. I guess I will have to get them from Newark Electronics?? http://www.newark.com/keystone/9202/mounting-bracket/dp/83F7659?Ntt=9202+bracket

About the drill holes... I tried looking for one on my MFM controller cards... the bottom hole lines up with the older cards but not the top hole. The newer cards don't seem to line up at all. I see from the board that there is no conflict to drill another hole nearby to X=7.35 Y=1.45 on XT-IDE.brd
 
Mouser likewise for me on this last order that I did. Even when not in stock, it seems they can get them from a wholesaler somewhere.

The 9202 was the only ISA slot cover that seemed to be available. I searched for weeks when originally sourcing a bracket, even going to some custom manufacturing shops, but the 9202 was the only thing that was coming up and the only thing we could find specs for. I eventually found a wholesaler and was able to buy 125 of them below mouser's price (but still about 3 bucks each!), and we've burned through all 125 of them now.

There just isn't anything else that is as common, and there is no specification as to what the most used hole position is.

The previous batch of prototype cards had no holes at all, so I had to drill my own, which you can of course do if you just want to steal a bracket from some other card in your scrap pile. Just put the card in an ISA slot, line up the bracket next to it, and mark the holes with a sharpie and go drill them out. At least if you steal a bracket from another card, you'll already have the screws for it! That's more than you get if you go with a mouser bracket.
 
hopefully andrew will verify, but the date looks about right there. the only changes made since early feb were to the silkscreen.
 
Ok thanks guys Mouser looks good so far... I swear I've spent all day yesterday trying to find the best place to buy these parts...

Now I'm looking to add a 16 pin socket from mouser and I looked at the specs for the 3M sockets and it says "Suitable for 'lead free' wave solder only. NOT FOR REFLOW SOLDER PROCESSES."

I looked at that video about "how to solder" and I'm not sure my solder is good enough since I want to do a professional job. I have 2 kinds. 1 is on an unmarked spindle, about 15 years old and the other is Cramco with rosin core and is twice as thick but is 30 years old.

Now does this mean they have lead in them and that's bad? What about solder wick for desoldering? Will anything do?
 
sombunall said:
Ok thanks guys Mouser looks good so far... I swear I've spent all day yesterday trying to find the best place to buy these parts...

Now I'm looking to add a 16 pin socket from mouser and I looked at the specs for the 3M sockets and it says "Suitable for 'lead free' wave solder only. NOT FOR REFLOW SOLDER PROCESSES."

I looked at that video about "how to solder" and I'm not sure my solder is good enough since I want to do a professional job. I have 2 kinds. 1 is on an unmarked spindle, about 15 years old and the other is Cramco with rosin core and is twice as thick but is 30 years old.

Now does this mean they have lead in them and that's bad? What about solder wick for desoldering? Will anything do?
Click to expand...

I'm guessing it means the plastic the socket is made from will melt during a reflow process. Not an issue for manual hand soldering. What's the Mouser part nr. for the socket in question?

In general, get parts that are -not- lead-free, when still available. They are a bit easier to solder if you're not experienced with it.

As for solder, you probably want standard 60/40 tin/lead solder, rosin core. Not all rosin flux is the same quality. Also it gets less active with age. Avoid cheap no-name solders. The fluxes tend to leave more of a mess and are harder to clean. I typically use Ersin, or Kester "44". You want something like .030" diameter for this project.

Bill
 
wrljet said:
What's the Mouser part nr. for the socket in question?

In general, get parts that are -not- lead-free, when still available. They are a bit easier to solder if you're not experienced with it.

Bill
Click to expand...

Almost every part is ROHS at mouser. I am experienced at soldering actually. I plan on using a Weller 30W (EDIT: NO! IT'S A 25W) pencil iron.

[EDIT: SEE THE NEXT POST FOR THE RED TEXT I MADE A MISTAKE]
Oh crap I just thought of something else. I use solder paste from 20 years ago I think and when I look in the electronics store I can't seem to find them anymore. I think they are too hard on the environment so they use something else to clean the contacts? I'm not sure what do you use?

Links:

http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/3M-Electronic-Solutions-Division/4828-6000-CP/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs%2fSh%2fkjph1tvt1%2fmEPT%2fXoFUUv0bvk4oI%3d

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?mwsId=SSSSSu7zK1fslxtUMx_eNY_Bev7qe17zHvTSevTSeSSSSSS--
 
Last edited:
[EDIT: SEE THE NEXT POST FOR THE RED TEXT I MADE A MISTAKE]
Oh crap I just thought of something else. I use solder paste from 20 years ago I think and when I look in the electronics store I can't seem to find them anymore. I think they are too hard on the environment so they use something else to clean the contacts? I'm not sure what do you use?
Click to expand...

I am talking about acid solder flux. I just found out about it:

"Acid" flux is the stronger class of flux; it has something like hydrochloric acid in
it. (The paste form has zinc chloride.)
This is good for making difficult oxides dissolve so difficult metals like stainless
steel can be solder-wetted.
But the acid can hang around later trying to corrode the metal it just cleaned for you.
So for electronic stuff we mostly do not use it.[/COLOR]
If we do, we scrub it off with things like toothbrush, water, soap, alcohol, baking soda,
to minimize acid residues.
Click to expand...

http://www.newton.dep.anl.gov/askasci/chem03/chem03278.htm

Sorry for the confusion!
 
hargle said:
hopefully andrew will verify, but the date looks about right there. the only changes made since early feb were to the silkscreen.
Click to expand...

Thanks.

Is KiCad-2010-05-05-BZR2356-final (Windoze version) the right version?
 
sombunall said:
I ordered some nice Kester "44" Rosin 60/40 24-6040-0027

http://ca.mouser.com/catalog/catalogUSD/641/2148.pdf

The thing is do I need to use alcohol to clean the solder side of the board? Is 70% good enough?
Click to expand...

Good show!

Those boards are well made and new enough they are not corroded and don't
really need cleaning.

One thing to keep in mind is some of the pins (grounds) are connected directly to the large foils and sink away the heat from your soldering iron. If you aren't paying attention you could get a cold joint. So you need the proper tip and iron.

Bill
 
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