RetroSweden
Experienced Member
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- Jan 15, 2014
- Messages
- 59
Really nice work! I'm just about to remove a PET 2001 "vinyl" type label, hopefully without causing any damage.
//RS
//RS
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PET case restoration - safely remove the label?
- Thread starter JonB
- Start date
There's quite a few local places here that would do it. It would cost about $70 for me to have one made and about $100 to have 40 made.
I have no idea how to find a place like that though. I only know about the ones here from years of doing business with them. I don't remember how I found them in the first place.
Here's the one I normally use, maybe they'd do business with you remotely, I have no idea. http://www.dhgraphicsandsigns.com/
I have no idea how to find a place like that though. I only know about the ones here from years of doing business with them. I don't remember how I found them in the first place.
Here's the one I normally use, maybe they'd do business with you remotely, I have no idea. http://www.dhgraphicsandsigns.com/
RetroSweden
Experienced Member
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2014
- Messages
- 59
This is the "2001 Series" label. Hopefully it's good enough to duplicate.
High res:
http://imgur.com/26jr7uy
I learnt a few things about the label when removing it. Looking at a cross-section of the label it consists of the following layers.
Front layer first.
Layer 1: Transparent matte plastic.
Layer 2: Black paint (painted with a mask for the text).
Layer 3: White labels covering the part of the plastic that was masked.
Layer 4: Glue that covers the whole back side (paint + white labels)
I'm guessing the glue is silicone based due to the trouble i had dissolving it.
Petroleum and Isopropanol made it stickier, but it would have been a hassle to dissolve all of it.
//RS
edit: added high res image.
High res:
http://imgur.com/26jr7uy
I learnt a few things about the label when removing it. Looking at a cross-section of the label it consists of the following layers.
Front layer first.
Layer 1: Transparent matte plastic.
Layer 2: Black paint (painted with a mask for the text).
Layer 3: White labels covering the part of the plastic that was masked.
Layer 4: Glue that covers the whole back side (paint + white labels)
I'm guessing the glue is silicone based due to the trouble i had dissolving it.
Petroleum and Isopropanol made it stickier, but it would have been a hassle to dissolve all of it.
//RS
edit: added high res image.
Last edited:
RetroSweden
Experienced Member
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2014
- Messages
- 59
If anyone needs to replace their labels on the back side here's something to get you started. I think one or two of the labels needs some more work, but it's a start at least. I included the label that the danish commodore distributor "Instrutek" had glued on the back side as well.
High res:
http://imgur.com/dEqBmRj
//RS
edit: added high res image.
High res:
http://imgur.com/dEqBmRj
//RS
edit: added high res image.
Last edited:
Nama
Veteran Member
Any chance you could post these at a larger size?
Wouldn't be very helpful to anyone at there present resolution.
Cheers
Phil
Wouldn't be very helpful to anyone at there present resolution.
Cheers
Phil
RetroSweden
Experienced Member
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2014
- Messages
- 59
Fixed. I didn't realize the forum resized the images that much. Thanks for letting me know.
//RS
EagleTG
Experienced Member
I am also interested in reproduction labels. I'm not a printing expert, but I've worked on a few projects with print houses. My ramblings follow.
I don't think anyone has posted this link yet, but there are quite a few variations of PET labels out there:
http://www.6502.org/users/sjgray/computer/petlabels/
I think it boils down to a few basic "styles" though.
The basics start with single-color print on foil (no laminate) and single-color print on white (thick textured laminate). Then there are some oddities like print color changes. It also looks like some of them are a brushed foil background instead of the shiny versions. There are also versions of the decals that have a thicker plastic (?) border around the edge.
There also appear to be various shapes and sizes, specifically (at least) two different heights. Some of them also appear to be more square than trapezoidal (but this might be due to the camera angles).
I bring this up as it would be nice to figure out some basic styles that are similar from a reproduction perspective. From prior experience using print shops, we'd want to distill them down to a "style of sticker" and then figure out how to print each style (with a vendor familiar with this). Theoretically a print shop could change the artwork (as long as we aren't forced to get screens cut or something like that) and apply multiple versions of artwork to stickers that are of similar construction. Limiting the styles might help in lowering setup costs and things of that nature. Quantity would also bring prices down.
I think the easiest is the foil-backed thin sticker. I'd think we could probably get a decent looking result with laser printing on a foil colored vinyl back. Second easiest would be the textured finish laminated version printed on white. The ones that would concern me are any that have the 3D border.
That said, it might boil down to four or six variations. Foil backed in both heights, textured vinyl with a white back in both heights, and maybe the brushed foil back as a wildcard? Once we had that basic stuff down, running different artwork on top might be easy and basic to change.
Does anyone have a print shop they've worked with, or know anyone in the print industry that might be able to assist? Bonus points if they are familiar with adhesive vinyls, laminates and things of that nature.
I could make some phone calls, but a lot of times it's easier for smaller runs if you have an "in" somewhere.
Edit: We could also consider making them "better" than the originals instead of close/perfect reproductions. One thought would be a gloss laminate over the printing on the foil version of the sticker.
I don't think anyone has posted this link yet, but there are quite a few variations of PET labels out there:
http://www.6502.org/users/sjgray/computer/petlabels/
I think it boils down to a few basic "styles" though.
The basics start with single-color print on foil (no laminate) and single-color print on white (thick textured laminate). Then there are some oddities like print color changes. It also looks like some of them are a brushed foil background instead of the shiny versions. There are also versions of the decals that have a thicker plastic (?) border around the edge.
There also appear to be various shapes and sizes, specifically (at least) two different heights. Some of them also appear to be more square than trapezoidal (but this might be due to the camera angles).
I bring this up as it would be nice to figure out some basic styles that are similar from a reproduction perspective. From prior experience using print shops, we'd want to distill them down to a "style of sticker" and then figure out how to print each style (with a vendor familiar with this). Theoretically a print shop could change the artwork (as long as we aren't forced to get screens cut or something like that) and apply multiple versions of artwork to stickers that are of similar construction. Limiting the styles might help in lowering setup costs and things of that nature. Quantity would also bring prices down.
I think the easiest is the foil-backed thin sticker. I'd think we could probably get a decent looking result with laser printing on a foil colored vinyl back. Second easiest would be the textured finish laminated version printed on white. The ones that would concern me are any that have the 3D border.
That said, it might boil down to four or six variations. Foil backed in both heights, textured vinyl with a white back in both heights, and maybe the brushed foil back as a wildcard? Once we had that basic stuff down, running different artwork on top might be easy and basic to change.
Does anyone have a print shop they've worked with, or know anyone in the print industry that might be able to assist? Bonus points if they are familiar with adhesive vinyls, laminates and things of that nature.
I could make some phone calls, but a lot of times it's easier for smaller runs if you have an "in" somewhere.Edit: We could also consider making them "better" than the originals instead of close/perfect reproductions. One thought would be a gloss laminate over the printing on the foil version of the sticker.
sjgray
Experienced Member
Thanks for posting a link to my page! I recreated a couple of the PET labels on my page in coreldraw and output as svg vector files which others have had reprinted. Ive been meaning to post them for quite a while. I am hoping to do more in the future as time permits.
Steve
Steve
Are the SVG files on your page? Would love to see them!
Pet Rescue
Experienced Member
After reading the above thread I thought I would share my dealings with the foil type label.
I begrudgingly decided to pinch the case from my 8032 to use as a donor for my SuperPet.
When I used a hairdryer to soften the glue to remove the label and tried to remove it,
the thin foil label just peeled away from it's white plastic backing.
I removed the white plastic backing and saved them for future use.
The SuperPet label was then attached to the donor case.
I had been looking around for over twelve months for just a case to use for the 8032.
I eventually found one, whether just because I thought it only right I decided to return the
donor case to it's original board and base.
I had to remove the SuperPet label and reattach the old label which was now in two parts.
The dilemma was whether to glue the foil to the plastic backing or to use heat.
Well originally I thought it must have been attached using heat, so I got out the trusty steam iron and
set it on a medium to high heat.
With the original white plastic backing on non stick surface, I aligned the foil label and taped it in place.
Using grease proof paper over the top of the foil and plastic backing I pressed the two back together.
It worked perfectly although when reattaching it to the Pet case it lifted slightly but with the Iron
and grease proof I pressed it back into place in-situ and it stayed nice and flat.
Take care not to crumple the foil as it is very thin and be careful when pressing using the iron on.
I am not responsible for any damage caused using this method but it worked perfectly for me!
I begrudgingly decided to pinch the case from my 8032 to use as a donor for my SuperPet.
When I used a hairdryer to soften the glue to remove the label and tried to remove it,
the thin foil label just peeled away from it's white plastic backing.
I removed the white plastic backing and saved them for future use.
The SuperPet label was then attached to the donor case.
I had been looking around for over twelve months for just a case to use for the 8032.
I eventually found one, whether just because I thought it only right I decided to return the
donor case to it's original board and base.
I had to remove the SuperPet label and reattach the old label which was now in two parts.
The dilemma was whether to glue the foil to the plastic backing or to use heat.
Well originally I thought it must have been attached using heat, so I got out the trusty steam iron and
set it on a medium to high heat.
With the original white plastic backing on non stick surface, I aligned the foil label and taped it in place.
Using grease proof paper over the top of the foil and plastic backing I pressed the two back together.
It worked perfectly although when reattaching it to the Pet case it lifted slightly but with the Iron
and grease proof I pressed it back into place in-situ and it stayed nice and flat.
Take care not to crumple the foil as it is very thin and be careful when pressing using the iron on.
I am not responsible for any damage caused using this method but it worked perfectly for me!
sjgray
Experienced Member
Ok, I just posted them on my page. They are at the bottom in the download section. So far it contains the CBM 4032 LP and CBM 8032 LP labels. Those could also easily be modified for HP bezels.
Steve