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5150 Case Ideas?

I have an empty 5150 case available, it's the B model case. $79 plus shipping. I bought boxes that fit them perfectly with padding to minimize the cost. I also have complete systems, displays, cards, motherboards, keyboards that I plan to put on Ebay soon. It's not my business, I am just trying to make space. These are all hardware that appeared on the XMEN Apocalypse movie, the 1983 CIA room. I rented them to the movie production house through my computer club when it was still called MARCH. I don't need them now. If you're near southeastern PA, you can pick these up cheaper than if you want them mailed. PM me if interested.

And just to help out it starts at 39:03
 
I bought an aluminum tray from a company called "Mountain Mods" and then formed an oak and acrylic case around that. Not shown is a top acrylic piece that's held in by some brass fasteners.

I'm not sure how this approach would work for a 5150 motherboard -- the mountain mods tray was set up with an ATX screw pattern, but it sure was easier than trying to fab the back supports for the cards myself.

xi8088-case.jpg
 
Polycarbonate is usually better than acrylic.

No it scratches too easy, do we need it bullet proof? Regular plexi is harder, also a scratch resistant and reduced static types are available. The plexi is not cheap unless you have it from scape.

Warning plexi burns at a low temperature and is difficult to put out. Using it in close proximity of any component that might overheat could be disastrous.

framer
 
Probably few remember this, but it was customary for model shops to use acrylic for case prototypes. They'd start with 1/2" thick or thicker stock and machine the nice 200" radius curves into it on the Bridgeport mill; then stick the pieces together with solvent cement. The end product was a case stable and perfect in every detail from which molds could be made. Rather than being see-through clear, most were left in a "frosted" state, suitable for painting when a prototype was to be shown.

The 5150 case (and most modern PC cases) is too slab-sided with too few interesting details to show the technique off, but my Durango 820's case was originally done in acrylic.
 
No it scratches too easy, do we need it bullet proof? Regular plexi is harder, also a scratch resistant and reduced static types are available. The plexi is not cheap unless you have it from scape.

Warning plexi burns at a low temperature and is difficult to put out. Using it in close proximity of any component that might overheat could be disastrous.

framer

One other issue with polycarbonate is that it is very tricky to heat form without 'bubbles forming'. If you overheat it even slightly it will bubble. Acrylic is a lot more forgiving in this regard.
 
No it scratches too easy, do we need it bullet proof? Regular plexi is harder

If a clear case is desired, then scratch-resistance is an issue. If it's going to be painted, the hardness of acrylic is not desirable, in my opinion. It cracks and shatters too easily. It's downright annoying to machine, and forming it is not feasible for the average home-brewer in my experience. Polycarbonate is much easier to work with. Of course, if it's going to be plastic at all, it probably pays to do some shopping. There are many plastics with many different properties.

Never underestimate sheet metal; I would use plain steel. But aluminium is not completely undesirable, and Chuck(G)'s suggestion of brass is very much worth considering.
 
I told you I need to give away that bottom. I just found & bought a nice top cover for it so now I have to build it out. I have a 16-64K system board for it but it needs a bios.

framer
 
I told you I need to give away that bottom. I just found & bought a nice top cover for it so now I have to build it out. I have a 16-64K system board for it but it needs a bios.

framer

Nice! I still haven't gotten the board yet, though. I'm thinking it may be a present from my wife next month, we'll see :)
 
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