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A major breakthrough in removing yellowing from old cases!!!

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Someone offered to sell me an Amiga 1200 but it has yellow keys! Would it be possible to remove the yellowing using this method, without damaging the printed letters?

Cheers
SainT
 
Larger than a keyboard key ?

Larger than a keyboard key ?

Has anyone tried this on something larger than a keyboard key?
I'm thinking of maybe a case for an Osbore I, or the case of a monitor.

And I assume when someone's whitening a keyboard, they're doing it one key at a time. IE: you can't dunk the whole keyboard in there can you? Can the industrial chemist offer any advise on that?

Thanks,
Lorne.
 
FYI: I've found peroxide at the dollar store for really cheap. IIRC it was of some higher concentration suitable for bleaching hair. I haven't bought it in a while. Next time I go to town I'll check.
 
OK, one at a time....

Yes, people have cleaned more than yellowed keys using this method. Most people remove the keys first then just put the plastic keytops in the solution.

For a monitor casing, you would need a lot of liquid. One idea that you could try is to gel the liquid with something inert like wallpaper paste, then paint it onto the casing. That should work and I would like a report back if you try it.

Ole is spot on. The highest peroxide solution you can get as the average Joe is 20% for bleaching hair, and it should be available from a hairdresser's supplies.

The letters aren't painted on the keys, it's lasered on and it's actually carbon, they will not be removed by the process.

Any more questions?

Merlin
 
Thanks Merlin.

I've got two Osborne 1's, and I will experiment on the case of the worst one, before I try it on a Televideo monitor that I want to be as white as it was original.

I read that sunshine (UV) helps - I'm in Phoenix, so have no problem in that regard. When I try this, I will record temperature and length of time in the sun, and will post the results, so you'll know.

I was thinking of putting the whole case in some sort of receptor, big enough to cover half the case, and then turning it half way through. (I'd make sure I timed it to the minute for even results).

Any idea if direct sunlight is better than indirect, and if temps of 105 F will be OK ? (it'll be almost like the microwave ideas, but in real life).

And again, it may sound like an idiotic idea, but an idiot is typing this. So it's just the case I want to dump into the stuff, right? IE: not the whole computer. (would there be any damage if I dumped the whole thing in?)

Thanks,

Lorne.
 
Erm just the case, unless you want either a large bang or a knackered computer, LOL.

In Arizona, you shouldn't need the UV lamp, it's just us in the UK that keep wondering what the big yellow thing in the sky is.....;)

Temperature will not be a problem and may help the reaction.

DON't add more than 5 grammes (1/4 teaspoonful) per litre max. of the Oxy powder, or you will have foam all ove the place that the local Fire Department would be proud of... LOL. That works out at about 1 teaspoonful per gallon.

Summarising, this is what you need for best results:-

1. Hydrogen peroxide solution, the stronger the better;
2. "Oxy" laundry booster powder, 1 teaspoonful per gallon;
3. The part to be treated, with all electronics and metal parts removed as much as possible;
4. Sunlight, lots of sunlight.
5. A large clear plastic or glass tank, large enough to hold the object to be cleaned, e.g. a fish tank.

Under your conditions I would expect you to see a major difference within two to three days, even with 6% peroxide.

Please take some photos, before, during and after, that would be cool.

Thanks

Merlin
 
Merlin:
I've got the Oxy powder, just need to find the hydrogen peroxide, get a fish tank, buy some goggles, and take the Osborne apart.
I'll take before, during and after photos, and will record temp/times during the process.
It'll be a while before I get this all set, but I'll keep you posted.
Thanks,
Lorne.
PS: my parents were both born in Manchester ! (a long bloody time ago though).
 
I wonder if Sodium Chlorate (available as weedkiller) would be useful for this? It's an oxidising substance and possibly easier to get and less hazardous than peroxide.
 
Highly doubtful, as we are relying partly on the bleaching properties of the peroxide, along with the hydrogen atoms freed by the catalytic action of the TAED in the "Oxy", which attach themselves to the brominated polyether chains of the flame retardant once the UV light has destabilised the oxygen atom.

Phew.....that's the Science bit over....
 
Merlin:
Update:
I found another product for the Hydrogen Peroxide. Same manufacturer but in 1 gal bottles (instead of a 16 oz bottle + a 16 oz bottle of part 2 that I couldn't use) @ $ 21.70/gal. It's called "Urine Rescue". Really - no kidding !
Hell of a deal at that price, seeing as I figure I'll need 10 gals to get a computer case in the tub. They're out of it until Sept 3rd.
Will keep you posted.
What do I do with this stuff afterward? Do I just pour it down the drain, or dump it in the back yard? (it could kill some bugs I suspect - and could give new meaning to the name whiteflies - how about white beetles, white bees, etc?)
Lorne.
 
Lorne,

If you dilute it once you finished down to below 10% as you send it to drain, you will be fine as H2O2 is pretty active and biodegradable, so don't worry about it.

Where I work, we use it to bleach dyes out of our trade effluent; the effluent goes to an activated sludge waste treatment plant, the water company are perfectly OK with it as it feeds the sludge.
 
Peroxide decomposes very easily into free oxygen (which does the work) and water, so just leaving peroxide out for a while will decompose it (which is why it is stored in non see through bottles). Heat will also decompose it.

You can pour the peroxide you get for cuts straight down the drain with no problems. Just make sure you do not mix peroxide with acids are you will get one heck of a hot fizzy reaction. It will also rust mild steel (drain piping these days is all plastic).

If you work with real concentrated peroxide you should go find the MSDS sheet and read it before doing anything.
 
Thanks for the tips on disposing of the stuff.

I picked up a gal of the "Urine Rescue" today. The MSDS says it's not less than 20%, and not more than 40% hydrogen peroxide.

I've got two key caps and a panel off the back of the case, sitting in a plastic tub (covered) in the sunshine at 99F (in the shade) outside temperature. And, the damn key caps FLOAT ! At least they float with the number side down - only the inside of the cap isn't getting treated. I put it in the tub two hours ago, and I think I already see some improvement. I had to remove the lid to relieve the pressure. I guess between adding the Oxy and the temp difference between 70F inside and 99 F outside (plus being in the sun) we had a little expansion. The lid looked like it was going to pop off !

I've taken the before pictures, and will take the after pictures after it cooks for a couple more days. If this works, I'll go get 10 gals of the stuff, so I can do a couple of Osborne cases. (Good thing I get a 10% discount if I buy 10 gals).

I'll keep you posted - keep your fingers crossed for me.

Lorne.
 
My (computer) parts have been soaking now for 6 hours and I see an amazing difference. What I thought were maybe green keyboard keys are actually grey keys. The yellow casing part is now light grey (as I think it was originally). I'll leave it in tomorrow, so it gets a full day of sunshine. I've seen ads for the Osborne1, and it's looks white in the ads. Maybe I just haven't cooked it enough yet. I'll post some photos tomorrow.

Questions for anyone out there with the knowledge (Merlin - you're the science guy):
- Can I damage the parts by leaving them in too long?
- Is a grey part likely to turn white, if I leave them in long enough?
- Will the hydrogen peroxide deteriorate over time, after sitting in the sunsine for a few days? (ie: can I use the same solution next week, that I'm using today and tomorrow, and still get the same results?

Thanks,

Lorne.
 
Lorne said:
- Will the hydrogen peroxide deteriorate over time, after sitting in the sunsine for a few days? (ie: can I use the same solution next week, that I'm using today and tomorrow, and still get the same results?
Click to expand...


As Unknown_K says:

Unknown_K said:
Peroxide decomposes very easily into free oxygen (which does the work) and water, so just leaving peroxide out for a while will decompose it (which is why it is stored in non see through bottles). Heat will also decompose it.
Click to expand...

So yes, it would degrade. I don't know how quickly though, so you may be all right for a while.
 
The people at the store must think you either work as a sanitary cleaner or spray everywhere if you keep coming there to buy gallons of "urine rescue". But in some way it makes sense, since it removes the yellow. :p
 
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