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Correct GoTek emulator model?

W

WimWalther

Experienced Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2019
Messages
449
Location
St. Paul, MN
Which is the correct GoTek model that works with XT & PC class machines? There are multiple models with very similar names & features, and I can't make heads or tails of the Chinglish text copy.

Fyi - I plan to use Flashfloppy firmware.
 
I find the best one... IS the cheapest one. I usually flash them with HXC firmware and the ones I find for $14.00 Which claim to be 100K or 140K meant to replace floppy drives on piano/organs work just fine as a standard Gotek. Your results may very, but again I buy the cheapest one I can find.
 
$14 sounds great to me, but again, a model number would be helpful. There are half a dozen nearly identical models, and I already made one purchase in error.

Oh, and I'd like it in beige, to match the machine. Btw, is there some reason you go with the (paid) HXC firmware vs. Flashfloppy?
 
Sure there are alternatives I just really like the support in BIOS that hxc delivers.And to be honest with you I don't really use these emulators on any dos machines mostly older CPM machines. And 10 to $15 is a drop in the bucket compared to the two hundred dollar actual hxc device.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5-Floppy...hash=item2879f6e4ce:m:m8Cps9wLzqynOS_xBy7LKsw

Fdd-udd u144

again I used all of these with hxc firmware so I know they work for me I don't know if the out of the box from where will work for you or you'll have to go use flash floppy or some other firmware to get it to do what you need all I can say again is I have had great success buying any of the cheapest ones available. and if you're adamant about purchasing beige you're going to pay a premium for that. Just paint it yourself
 
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You do want to make sure it has the two buttons. Some only had one button. Also the displays are different. This isn't an issue if you are going to replace the 7 segment type with a OLED anyway.
Dwight
 
WimWalther said:
$14 sounds great to me, but again, a model number would be helpful. There are half a dozen nearly identical models, and I already made one purchase in error.

Oh, and I'd like it in beige, to match the machine. Btw, is there some reason you go with the (paid) HXC firmware vs. Flashfloppy?
Click to expand...

I'm curious what one you ordered in error. Like verault, I found the cheapest ones working fine and i've never had a problem. I know they make some 720k only versions but I'm not sure that you really need those anymore, especially if you're using flashfloppy or hxc software and it's for a pc. As for the difference between HXC and Flash Floppy, HXC has some more compatibility with rare systems but that's about all i've found. I use flash floppy but I have hxc on one of my drives. Whenever I've had weird issues with flash floppy, i tried the hxc and typically had the same issues, so personally haven't found anything that works better on hxc.

I actually just picked up another one because I'll probably be using my one spare in my Tandy. It's from china so not good if you're in a hurry, i just order when i'm running low :) As verault stated, you do pay a premium for the beige. I bought one a long time back when they were about the same price so I still have the case for that one (I removed it and used the insides on a 3d printed case i made for my Atari ST). Anyway, this is the one i picked up, but it's black...

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New...usical-Keyboard-34pin-Floppy/32971657707.html
 
My understanding is that the stock firmware is locked into a particular disk type such as 1.44M or 720K, but it won't matter if you are going to update it to flashfloppy anyway which only requires a TTL level USB adapter.
 
"TTL level USB adapter"

Like a console cable? Or did you mean something else? I was under the impression that a custom double-ended USB "A" cable was needed.
 
WimWalther said:
"TTL level USB adapter"

Like a console cable? Or did you mean something else? I was under the impression that a custom double-ended USB "A" cable was needed.
Click to expand...

I Believe he is referring to a USB to 5V serial ( not RS232 voltage levels ). Do a search for FTDI serial. The STM32F105 chip can either be programmed with a 5V serial or, if a loader is installed, direct through the USB port. Since the current code would need to be erased, there would be no boot loader for the USB port, requiring you to use a USB to 5v serial. They are cheap on EBAY.
If you had STM's development setup, it can be loaded through the JTAG but most people don't have that adapter or the STM development code.
Dwight
 
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The port used on the Gotek is 5V tolerant and has pullups to 5V. It is best to use it at 5V. On other things using STM parts one should make sure which ports are used. In the boot mode, it looks at several ports for the special character and auto adjusts the baud rate. Since on boot it is running on the R/C clock and not the crystal clock, I recommend using a lower baud rate than the maximum rated value. I've had issues with rates above 56K baud on my blue pill boards. ( a different chip than the Gotek but the same family of parts ). The Blue pill uses a 3.3V port.
Dwight
 
Ok, I have such a cable (USB to TTL-level RS-232). They are less than $2 on eBay. I refer to them as "console cables" though that may be confusing in certain cases.
 
I buy them 5 at a time from Aliexpress. Be careful, however. There are some forgeries of the Prolific-based ones. Generally, you're safe with the ones with the black USB connectors; the blue ones may not work with all systems.

Code: 
  idVendor           0x067b Prolific Technology, Inc.
  idProduct          0x2303 PL2303 Serial Port
  bcdDevice            3.00
  iManufacturer           1 Prolific Technology Inc.
  iProduct                2 USB-Serial Controller

They work fine on 3.3V; just don't use the 5V output to power your 3.3V projects unless said projects also include an LDO regulator to drop that 5V.
 
Chuck(G) said:
I buy them 5 at a time from Aliexpress. Be careful, however. There are some forgeries of the Prolific-based ones. Generally, you're safe with the ones with the black USB connectors; the blue ones may not work with all systems.

Code: 
  idVendor           0x067b Prolific Technology, Inc.
  idProduct          0x2303 PL2303 Serial Port
  bcdDevice            3.00
  iManufacturer           1 Prolific Technology Inc.
  iProduct                2 USB-Serial Controller

They work fine on 3.3V; just don't use the 5V output to power your 3.3V projects unless said projects also include an LDO regulator to drop that 5V.
Click to expand...

Not just prolific, the FTDI ones were also clones and for a while there, the FTDI drivers were bricking them completely.

That said, if you get stuck with fake FTDI or Prolific ones, there are drivers on the internet that work fine with the clones. I personally have been able to get all of them to work, real or fake, but it is definitely more difficult with Windows 10 and the fake ones.
 
WimWalther said:
"TTL level USB adapter"

Like a console cable? Or did you mean something else? I was under the impression that a custom double-ended USB "A" cable was needed.
Click to expand...

Btw, most people mentioned the USB TTL Adapter, but a USB Type A to Type A will work as well, it's just a different process and I've done both methods. If I recall correctly, it only works with Flash Floppy, not the hxc firmware.

This video will help with that method.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yUOyZB9cro4
 
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