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IBM PC Dos Version 1.0 kinda I think

pearce_jj said:
Does anyone have a scan on the label for the v1 disk? It would be nice to have a replica in the disk box anyway.
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See THERE

Click onto the icon above "IBM_DO..." : it's a bit heavy, RAR 4Mb.

Inside the RAR file, you will find a BMP file, it's a scan of the label, big enough to let you do what you want with.
 
MikeS said:
Which wire?
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The blue one, no the red one, no the blue one... Just kidding ;) Like the last time this issue came up I maintain my stand: every time I mess with a FDD it is fuxored for good! No cutting wires for me.... Plus, handy means to me is once in a blue moon. I have a few non-notched 5 1/4" disks that are originals which have issues. I would like to see if formatting them and writing a new image would help... Probably not as the disk has gone bad but you never know...
 
What's really sad is the look on someones face when they try and boot it and it doesn't work. Yep could be a label.

Get a free working copy on the net.

framer
 
MikeS, you should put it on the VCGM ;-) Good attention and auction if you're not interested in it. For the OP though yes not matching means it's not really the value you'd want. Keep in mind however a lot of this is novelty for collectors. While yes, I'd love to find some 1.0 stuff (and I was one of the bidders losing that C/PM auction yesterday or so) you have to keep in mind that the disks are likely not going to work. So you have a nice original manual and labelled disk but likely you'd end up needing to find the software elsewhere to really use it. Don't get me wrong, lots of stuff works fine too, but just in case someone new is eying this, take the purchase for what it is. A collectible, possible not usable item. The other fun catch would be to end up getting it with a virus infection or something lol.
 
Do 5.25" disks, even when left sealed, still retain their information these days from that era? or even be repairable (e.g. format, then put the data back)?
Just curious, because the disks being readable makes a huge difference to me, I couldn't spend $$$ on 'looking-at' disks.

I'd also wondered about slicing them open with a knife carefully and replacing the insert, but then how do you seal it back up without looking nasty :/
 
SpidersWeb said:
Do 5.25" disks, even when left sealed, still retain their information these days from that era? or even be repairable (e.g. format, then put the data back)?
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The problem is not so much losing their information, but the oxide layer flaking off (taking the info with it of course, and leaving crud on the head). Some brands were worse than others though.
 
Shadow Lord said:
The blue one, no the red one, no the blue one... Just kidding ;) Like the last time this issue came up I maintain my stand: every time I mess with a FDD it is fuxored for good! No cutting wires for me.... Plus, handy means to me is once in a blue moon. I have a few non-notched 5 1/4" disks that are originals which have issues. I would like to see if formatting them and writing a new image would help... Probably not as the disk has gone bad but you never know...
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If you know what and where it is, you can get by without cutting anything by simply putting a temporary jumper across the sensor.
 
SpidersWeb said:
Do 5.25" disks, even when left sealed, still retain their information these days from that era? or even be repairable (e.g. format, then put the data back)?
Just curious, because the disks being readable makes a huge difference to me, I couldn't spend $$$ on 'looking-at' disks.
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Yes and no. Ideally yes, but just because it's new/unopened doesn't necessarily mean that the disks will work. First, remember that these things are often > 20 years old, and they are degrading sitting there in their new packaging :) In addition, poor storage conditions, of which there may no longer be any outward signs, could have killed the disks, sitting flat with the weight of the DOS manuals on them could've killed or bent the 5.25" floppies, any number of things. In my experience, 9/10 times NOS stuff will work. Just don't be overly upset that the 30 year old software you just forked out big bucks for doesn't work when you open it and discover that it's now a $500 paperweight.

SpidersWeb said:
I'd also wondered about slicing them open with a knife carefully and replacing the insert, but then how do you seal it back up without looking nasty :/
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This is a last resort type of thing. I'd never trust a floppy that had been removed from its sheath and then reinserted and resealed. Generally, you'll only ever want to do this when you want to wash the disk to attempt data recovery.
 
Yeah was just wondering about probability because I haven't bought any NOS software packages yet, 90% is a pretty decent percentage.

And yep I meant as a last resort but not for data recovery, more for having original disks that are usable. For example you have original disks with bad sectors, in my case Xtree Gold, you could replace the insert and give it a new life. Naturally I use backup copies of any original titles but having the original disks operating is quite important to me. Seeing something historic is great, but actually using it is epic.

Although in saying that, spending $500 on original PCDOS disks, you'd have to be brave to crack out a knife :/
 
Shadow Lord said:
Yeah, but that one is for "real collectors" not just any nobody w/ $1500!
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Actually it's $1940 (dollars) but I can understand that, because it is listed as rare. I picked up an almost similar copy at the thrift store but they only charged be a buck. The only difference is that my copy wasn't rare.

@Maverick1978: Old diskettes, as Mike mentioned can have a problem with the coating. Apart from that, my personal experience is that almost all old 5-1/4" diskettes read just fine. Many (less old) 3-1/2" ones don't. The bigger format is more reliable and was superior technology in that sense.

MikeS said:
Which wire?
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Hehe, well I would hope that wouldn't pose a problem to someone smart enough to get it open. I suppose blocking the sensor or LED would work too but I just like having a switch on the front.
 
After everybody here scared the "DoDo" out of me about buying a possibly counterfeit copy off eBay, I called my old IBM SE and asked him did he know where someone might get a legimate copy of PC Dos 1.0. He said not a problem, he got me a copy with the manual for about 1/3 of what they are asking on eBay. Now if old SE is one of you and been following this thread and just made it, I guess I outsmarted myself then.
 
Jimmy said:
After everybody here scared the "DoDo" out of me about buying a possibly counterfeit copy off eBay, I called my old IBM SE and asked him did he know where someone might get a legimate copy of PC Dos 1.0. He said not a problem, he got me a copy with the manual for about 1/3 of what they are asking on eBay. Now if old SE is one of you and been following this thread and just made it, I guess I outsmarted myself then.
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Your old SE wouldn't happen to have a line on a NOS/NIB 5170 would he? :D
 
Most of us who got and registered DOS 1.0 when new got regular updates from IBM with new inserts to the manual. That included DOS 1.1 since 1.0 was as buggy as a bait shop. After that we had to buy new versions...

Finding DOS 1.0 with a pristine, as shipped, 1.0 manual would be impressive.
 
Erik said:
Most of us who got and registered DOS 1.0 when new got regular updates from IBM with new inserts to the manual. That included DOS 1.1 since 1.0 was as buggy as a bait shop. After that we had to buy new versions...

Finding DOS 1.0 with a pristine, as shipped, 1.0 manual would be impressive.
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I have one, and I suspect so do many others because either they did not register (so never got updates) or never bothered to incorporate the updates in their manuals!
 
Ole Juul said:
Originally Posted by MikeS
Which wire?

Hehe, well I would hope that wouldn't pose a problem to someone smart enough to get it open. I suppose blocking the sensor or LED would work too but I just like having a switch on the front.
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A switch is indeed nice, but I think you've got it backwards; you don't want to cut a wire, you want to short out the sensor, and you want to simulate unblocking the LED-sensor path...
 
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