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omg omg omg, I just got an IBM 5162!

modem7 said:
For all we know, the OP is going to fit a CPU, and discover that everything works.
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Bah, I just discovered my i286-6 has a missing pin... doesn't look like it's stuck in the socket... so I've fitted the i286-10 for now. Ordering a POST card from Amazon I guess, since neither of mine want to be found right now. Killing me not getting this unit to fire up.
 
modem7 said:
Regarding a possible video issue. I do not own a 5162 (or its motherboard). Assuming that the OP discovers that there is no power related issue, handy to know would be, without a video card fitted, does a functional 5162 complete the POST, outputting a beep to the speaker (and moving the heads on A: drive slightly before that) ?....
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I just removed the VGA card from my fully functional 5162 which is running the AMI Bios from minuszerodegrees and XUB, After removing the VGA card i powered on and heard the 10 ticks from the speaker indicating a successful memory count 640k, Then the floppy A drive was accessed and i got the post good beep from the speaker and then it continued on to boot from the hard drive. Or floppy drive if i put a bootable disc in the drive.
 
I saw this 5162 on ebay. I ignore it because of oxidation from the battery. There can be interrupted any contact and restoration can be very difficult...
 
romanon said:
I saw this 5162 on ebay. I ignore it because of oxidation from the battery. There can be interrupted any contact and restoration can be very difficult...
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The corrosion was actually far less than I was expecting, there was only minor rust touching the 5-pin DIN, the vast majority of the rust was on the chassis near the battery holder. The corrosion stains on the bottom of the board do not seem to have actually reached the traces.

What I need is some sort of testing diagram to pin point the issue. =)

... and someone to send me another i286-6 =)
 
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I guess that I didn't get enough sleep last night because I'm a little dense this morning. Why, specifically, is a 286-6 necessary when there's a 10MHz one fitted already? The -10 might even run a bit cooler at 6MHz than the 6MHz variety. I've got a -6 in my hellbox, but it's CLCC, not PGA.
 
JDT said:
not CPU, Co-Proc, or Video card...
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...and lots of corrosion which is going to require motherboard repair -- you should have waited for another auction, IMO. You overpaid.

JDT said:
Anyway I think the original PSU is shot, it would only spin the fan momentarily and then shut off.
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It's also possible the system was not loaded fully. The 5162 (and AT) PSU requires a certain load to start up. I have a hard drive I'm not using connected in mine because I didn't receive the the load resistor in my 5162.

Chuck(G) said:
I guess that I didn't get enough sleep last night because I'm a little dense this morning. Why, specifically, is a 286-6 necessary when there's a 10MHz one fitted already?
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His 10MHz cpu was missing a pin.
 
Trixter said:
His 10MHz cpu was missing a pin.
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No, I read in #21:

Bah, I just discovered my i286-6 has a missing pin
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So I'm still baffled.

In point of historic fact, it was very common for users to "turbo" the 5170 and the 5162 to 8Mhz and beyond. If you check the back of PC Week or other publications of the time, you'll find plenty of offerings for replacement crystals, or even PLL-based frequency synthesizers (you get a gizmo with a knob--turn the the thing up until it won't run). Unlike the 5150 and 5160, the basic time base used in the 8254s is unchanged.

Intel rapidly improved their yield on the 80286, such that later -6 chips were really -8s. (What's in a name?)
 
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Sorry for stating incorrect info.

I have one of those PLL-based things; I only have one 5170 and one 5162 so I haven't had the nerve to hook it up (don't want to blow up something important).
 
My gut says no... but would the 5162 require the 287 math co-pro? Or is there a dip/switch, jumper etc to designate for the motherboard to look for it at post? ie. could my lack of co-pro be keeping the board down? I wouldn't think so... but thought I'd ask anyway, you know, just for fun.
 
Nope, if it were, you'd get a POST diagnostic.

I'll admit to not having read the entire thread (I'm lazy today), but have you installed the Supersoft/Landmark Diagnostic ROMS yet? That should tell you a whole bunch. The only gotcha is that I believe that they require either an MDA/MGA or CGA to show messages. Maybe it's different on the 286 version.
 
Chuck(G) said:
Nope, if it were, you'd get a POST diagnostic.

I'll admit to not having read the entire thread (I'm lazy today), but have you installed the Supersoft/Landmark Diagnostic ROMS yet? That should tell you a whole bunch. The only gotcha is that I believe that they require either an MDA/MGA or CGA to show messages. Maybe it's different on the 286 version.
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I'm afraid I 1. Was not aware such a thing existed, 2. do not posses such a thing.
I do however expect my new POST card to arrive tomorrow, so there is that to look forward to, just to see if any logic is flowing at all, I'm guessing not.

So the 286-10 cpu I've got should just work in this board, no need to change the crystal if I don't care if it clocks down? Not sure why this boggles me, it just does.
 
Look at the datasheet for the 80286-10--the slowest clock speed in min/max ratings is 250nsec. Since the clock is twice the chip rating (i.e. 12MHz for a 6MHz part), you can, guaranteed, run the clock down to an effective CPU speed of 2MHz. 80C286s can likely be run much slower.

POST cards convey relatively little information. ROM images for the Supersoft diagnostics are here. Just burn the code into a couple of 27256s, install and sit back for the show.
 
Refer to the last sentence in post #12. Without the subject POWER GOOD signal from the PSU, no POST card nor diagnostic ROM set (e.g. Supersoft/Landmark) is going to do anything.

And just because the PSU generated its POWER GOOD signal when it was fitted to a different computer, does not guarantee that it will generate its POWER GOOD signal when fitted to your 5162.

Checking the POWER GOOD signal is something that you can do now, whilst awaiting arrival of the POST card.

The POWER good signal is expected to be at something over + 2.4 volts (source: IBM manual).


p8_p9_pinout.jpg
 
As expected, the post card arrived and seems to confirm no logic is flowing, +12V indicator on solid, +3V LED illuminated for a fraction of a second.
Tested POST card in functional 5150 - no numeric LED involvement, but voltage LEDs blink during POST process - IBM 5150 Boots up.
Tested Test PSU on IBM 5150 motherboard - IBM 5150 boots up.

As an added bonus... I opened up my 5160 (hadn't so much as powered it on in 10 years) and found 2 petrified mice, a nest... and a whole mess of corrosion inside. After cleaning, the symptoms are the same as the 5162...

So... time to break out the multimeter... anyone got a testing plan already conceived? =)
 
willmurray461 said:
If you have a multimeter, you should check all of the tantalum capacitors to see if they have shorted or failed. Also check any visibly corroded traces with your multimeter on continuity mode. You should also check to see if the fan moves when you turn it on or you hear any beep codes.
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Let's "pretend" that I'm no electrical genius... "pretend" ;) What setting on a multimeter do I use, and what is the desired value?

I know just about enough to fry stuff... lol
 
modem7 said:
Refer to the last sentence in post #12. Without the subject POWER GOOD signal from the PSU, no POST card nor diagnostic ROM set (e.g. Supersoft/Landmark) is going to do anything.

And just because the PSU generated its POWER GOOD signal when it was fitted to a different computer, does not guarantee that it will generate its POWER GOOD signal when fitted to your 5162.

Checking the POWER GOOD signal is something that you can do now, whilst awaiting arrival of the POST card.

The POWER good signal is expected to be at something over + 2.4 volts (source: IBM manual).


p8_p9_pinout.jpg
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Assuming my 5150 powers on, posts and boots with my TEST PSU, we can "assume" that it's good? Or at least capable of producing a POWER GOOD signal? Or are you implying that I need to probe the 82284 chip? (and if so, how? Find POWER GOOD pin and use continuity again ground? Seriously, I know so little...)

TIA
 
Yes, to be specific: Set your DMM to low-range ohms (some have a audible continuity check as well). Disconnect the power supply from the motherboard, then connect one DMM lead (the black - one is good) and then probe the other power input pins on the motherboard. You should get close to 0 ohms on the other ground pins, but nowhere near that on the others. An abnormally low resistance indicates a shorted component.
 
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