My 5160 PSU fan sounds A lot! thinking about to replace it, does it have standard measure? if so, what measure does it have? and what type of connector? maybe it is soldered? If i could replace the fan i would reduce the noise like 50%.
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Replaceing PSU fan
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Chuck(G)
25k Member
Does the fan rattle or sqeal? If not, you're best off leaving things as they are. The original US 5150 PSU fans were very loud--they were AC-operated. The 5160 fans were somewhat better, but now you understand the desire to take the noisy box and put it on the floor. The fan in your unit is most likely a 12VDC fan, but remember that it provides the only air movement in a very tightl box--so if you do replace it, do not skimp on the CFM rating.
I would say it is more like a squeal, i dont believe it is any wrong with it, maybe just timeworn. But to be honest, it kills your ears after a while. So thats why im thinking about to replace the fan, and that cant be very bad idea? I have a european psu verson (230V) but i guess it is the very same fan for both 120-230V.
And there is 12V fans that would fit the psu? and if i take a fan with the same size it should move equal with air i hope. I could use a fan that i can turn up the speed with a cable with a little screwdriver to compensate the rpm if needed. The fan even sounds more then the hard drive most of the time
Chuck(G)
25k Member
Yes, your 5160 sounds normal. Most people either have never heard the early PC fans or don't remember them. Mainframes, particularly with lots of tape drives were also very noisy. Line printers with the sound-absorbing cover liften could deafen you. Good times.
Some early hard drives could be very noisy also.
Replacing the fan with a newer one should be fairly easy. Some 5160 PSUs did use anti-tamper Torx screws on the outer metal enclosure, so you may need a special bit for them. Pick the fan with highest airflow rating and match it dimensionally with the one in your PSU. You can use crimp splice fittings to attach the new fan to the old leads.
Some early hard drives could be very noisy also.
Replacing the fan with a newer one should be fairly easy. Some 5160 PSUs did use anti-tamper Torx screws on the outer metal enclosure, so you may need a special bit for them. Pick the fan with highest airflow rating and match it dimensionally with the one in your PSU. You can use crimp splice fittings to attach the new fan to the old leads.
fatwizard
Veteran Member
I have two 5160's and a spare 5160 power supply, and none of them could be described as squealing. I would try giving the bearings a drop of oil first. It has likely never been done, and you will never get a modern fan to run that long without service. Peel back the center label to expose the bearings. I think there is also a rubber or plastic plug as well, but I can't remember for sure. If so, it should pry out easily.
While you have the fan out you should also clean the accumulated dust off of the blades. This helps restore proper airflow and can also sometimes reduce noise.
While you have the fan out you should also clean the accumulated dust off of the blades. This helps restore proper airflow and can also sometimes reduce noise.
I oiled and cleaned the PSU and noticed when i held the really heavy fan in my hand that the fan do rattle, but i cant tell if it is much or less or normal, but i think the bearings is a bit worn.
And the fan seams to operate between 208-230V, so replacing it will be a bit hard!?
And the fan seams to operate between 208-230V, so replacing it will be a bit hard!?
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bettablue
Veteran Member
No, replacing the fan is very easy and straight forward. I had to do a fan swap on my 5150 PSU a short while ago. When removing the van, leave enough of the original leads so that you can use crimp-on joints. I used plain metal ones and covered the exposed metal with heat shrink tubing. Now the power supply is as quiet as a mouse.
Do yourself a favor and do as fatwizard suggest and clean the fan blades of any accumulated dirt and dust. You will be glad you did.
What type of fan did you replace it with? aint the fan 208-230V as you can see on the picture i posted? or did i get the label wrong? And i did clean it with minor improvement for the noise. Look at the picture how dusty it was lol.
Chuck(G)
25k Member
Etri is still very much in business and the replacements for the 126LF-2181 are available, even in the 220V model.
For example, here.
However, AC fans are generally much noisier than brushless DC ones, so if you wanted to, you could replace yours with any 30 CFM 80mm 12VDC BLDC fan and run it from the +12 output of the supply.
For example, here.
However, AC fans are generally much noisier than brushless DC ones, so if you wanted to, you could replace yours with any 30 CFM 80mm 12VDC BLDC fan and run it from the +12 output of the supply.
Yeah i could connect it to a +12V output, but most fans seams to have 3 or 4 pin connector, and the IBM fas has 2 pin connector, is it easy to work around that?
Chuck(G)
25k Member
Stop right there! The connector that the original fan connects to in your power supply carries 220V! Don't even think about connecting a 12VDC fan to that! You'll have a marvelous display of smoke and possibly a fire.
If you're going to use a modern 12V fan, you'll have to solder leads to the PSU printed circuit board to get the needed 12VDC. 3 or 4 wire fans don't matter--the extras are used for temperature sensing, stall indication and/or speed control. You need only concern yourself with two of the wires (usually red and black, but not always).
I was looking on some swedish component site but found only 3-4 pins, but i guess that doesnt matter if i just use the right cables.
Yes your right, i was thinking in the wrong direction there, ofc i wouldnt put a 12V in a 220V connector...dont know what i was thinking...if i even was lol. Can i solder on the same spot as the power cables for the floppy or HDD? i guess that was a stupid question, but better ask stupid questions then none
Chuck(G)
25k Member
It's okay--your comment about using the connector alarmed me.
Yes, you can solder to the same spot that the cables use on the printed circuit board.
Yes, you can solder to the same spot that the cables use on the printed circuit board.
It's okay--your comment about using the connector alarmed me.
Yes, you can solder to the same spot that the cables use on the printed circuit board.
And i understand why lol :D
Ok then i have to take the PSU apart again and check the board how its done, and a new solder iron must be bought, and the fan ofc. Im thinking of buying Noctua NF-R8 with 1800 rpm and with 53 airflow, it has SSO oil pressure bearing, i guess that one will do fine?
What RPM cold i go as lowest? 1200-1000?
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Chuck(G)
25k Member
The important number is how many CFM (cubic feet per minute; 1 cubic foot = about 28 L) of air the fan can move. Your AC fan spins at 2750 RPM and provides 27 CFM airflow according to the datasheet.
One of the reasons that the fan spins so fast is that, compared to a brushless DC fan, there's very little room for the fan blades! So the fan must be spun faster to provide the airflow--and is more noisy.
One of the reasons that the fan spins so fast is that, compared to a brushless DC fan, there's very little room for the fan blades! So the fan must be spun faster to provide the airflow--and is more noisy.
Ah i see, then this one should work fine http://www.webhallen.com/se-sv/datorkomponenter/67343-noctua_chassiflakt_80mm_7-17dba its CFM s at 26 if i use U.L.N.A adapter, i guess 1 CFM dont matter?
Chuck(G)
25k Member
Looks like a very nice fan for your purpose.
Actually it's about 15 CFM, You need to convert 26 Cubic meter per hour (m³/h) to Cubic feet per minute (CFM)
Airflow 53 m³/h - ( 31.19 CFM )
Airflow with L.N.A. 39 m³/h - ( 22.95 CFM )
Airflow with U.L.N.A. 26 m³/h - ( 15.30 CFM )
Looks like a Nice fan for your purpose, though i'd probably not use the adapters.
Oh..thought m3/h was the same as CFM, but that clears it all. Better to use no adapters as you say then so the PSU dont overheat!