- VCF South West - June 14 - 16, Davidson-Gundy Alumni Center at University of Texas at Dallas
- VCF West - Aug 2 - 3, Computer History Museum, Mountain View, CA
- VCF Midwest - Sept 7 - 8 2024, Schaumburg, IL
- VCF SoCal - Mid February 2025, Location TBD, Southern CA
- VCF East - April 2025, Infoage Museum, Wall NJ
-
Please review our updated Terms and Rules here
Shugart 801 drive enclosures
- Thread starter Scrub
- Start date
bzotto
Experienced Member
There are certainly (vintage) external enclosures out there, though they usually already are home to a drive or two, and they are incredibly heavy and $$ beasts to ship around. (Here's an example of an enclosure that comes with 2x Shugarts.) If you don't have easy access to one of these, you can DIY the power and connections, but be aware that it's not an especially turnkey or obvious process.
There are three things you need to connect:
1. AC: The 801 takes a direct 110V (or 220 depending of course) AC mains connection for the motor into the three-connector AMP socket at the rear. This powers only the spindle motor, which runs constantly. You can rig this up yourself from an old power cord and (ideally) the correct mating AMP connector.
2. DC: You'll need +24V and +5V for the 801, and depending on which variant it is, you will also need -5V. These DC supplies come through a 6-pin AMP socket, also at the rear (mounted on the PCB). You can roll your own DC supplies with various bits of off the shelf hardware, but the shortest path may be getting one of these: http://www.dbit.com/fddc.html If you pair this with a PC power supply, you should be able to drive the DC rails, including the odd -5V if your drive needs it. I have heard you can probably run this board off of one of the little Pico ATX PSU boards, but I don't have experience with them.
3. The data connection itself is a 50-pin Shugart (obviously) interface. The good news is that this is the original implementation of the Shugart floppy disk interface standard, which essentially all PC floppy drives used afterwards, so you can talk to Shugart 8" drives with a lot more modern hardware. (That's not true of most other 8" drives, which are mostly stuck in 1970s-land.) The bad news is that your drive has a 50-pin edge connector and the standard since then is a 34-pin IDC plug. There are multiple off the shelf adapters. I use this one:
https://www.tindie.com/products/siliconinsider/8-floppy-disk-interface-50-pin-to-34-pin-adapter/
The DBIT site linked above also sells a similar, somewhat more sophisticated product that does this cable adapting.
Then you'll need whatever else on your modern PC (or I guess vintage system!) is required to talk to the drive, but that's just whatever project you're working on! There are about a zillion jumper-able options on the Shugart 801 PCB, and you'll need to set them to make sense with your application, which can require some guesswork, but the drives in my experience will come back to life OK. You will probably need to clean the head and work the stepper motor shaft back and forth to free up the mechanism before it will reliably seek.
Here's the "OEM Manual" which has the pinouts and diagrams and power requirements for the 801.
Good luck!
There are three things you need to connect:
1. AC: The 801 takes a direct 110V (or 220 depending of course) AC mains connection for the motor into the three-connector AMP socket at the rear. This powers only the spindle motor, which runs constantly. You can rig this up yourself from an old power cord and (ideally) the correct mating AMP connector.
2. DC: You'll need +24V and +5V for the 801, and depending on which variant it is, you will also need -5V. These DC supplies come through a 6-pin AMP socket, also at the rear (mounted on the PCB). You can roll your own DC supplies with various bits of off the shelf hardware, but the shortest path may be getting one of these: http://www.dbit.com/fddc.html If you pair this with a PC power supply, you should be able to drive the DC rails, including the odd -5V if your drive needs it. I have heard you can probably run this board off of one of the little Pico ATX PSU boards, but I don't have experience with them.
3. The data connection itself is a 50-pin Shugart (obviously) interface. The good news is that this is the original implementation of the Shugart floppy disk interface standard, which essentially all PC floppy drives used afterwards, so you can talk to Shugart 8" drives with a lot more modern hardware. (That's not true of most other 8" drives, which are mostly stuck in 1970s-land.) The bad news is that your drive has a 50-pin edge connector and the standard since then is a 34-pin IDC plug. There are multiple off the shelf adapters. I use this one:
https://www.tindie.com/products/siliconinsider/8-floppy-disk-interface-50-pin-to-34-pin-adapter/
The DBIT site linked above also sells a similar, somewhat more sophisticated product that does this cable adapting.
Then you'll need whatever else on your modern PC (or I guess vintage system!) is required to talk to the drive, but that's just whatever project you're working on! There are about a zillion jumper-able options on the Shugart 801 PCB, and you'll need to set them to make sense with your application, which can require some guesswork, but the drives in my experience will come back to life OK. You will probably need to clean the head and work the stepper motor shaft back and forth to free up the mechanism before it will reliably seek.
Here's the "OEM Manual" which has the pinouts and diagrams and power requirements for the 801.
Good luck!
Last edited:
Chuck(G)
25k Member
One of my 8" drives resides in an enclosure that I bought from Jade. Basically, it's an L-shaped base and a U-shaped cover. The rear has appropriate holes for cables and a fan. I managed to incorporate a +24 and +5v linear supply in it.
My point being that drive enclosures need not be fancy. You could probably build one of acrylic sheet with the appropriate cement.
2 drives can sit horizontally in a standard 19" EIA rack enclosure.
My point being that drive enclosures need not be fancy. You could probably build one of acrylic sheet with the appropriate cement.
2 drives can sit horizontally in a standard 19" EIA rack enclosure.
Thanks guys, I feel good about an ATX with that fddc, not so sure about rigging up my own 110V maybe there is some kind of premade plug/ switch I can track down. This isn't going to be an S-100 computer i want to hook it up to a single board that im working on, reason i ended up here is i could swear i had an s-100 computer that had a few 110V connectors ready to go for floppy drives. I searched ebay and an s-100 case and power supply doesn't seem easy to come by, am i remembering this right or is this kind of system dependent?
Chuck(G)
25k Member
Where in the world are you located? Your profile doesn't say.
I hear talk about 110V (should be 120V for North America, but 100-110V for Japan). But if you're somewhere else in the world, your drive will most likely be a 220V 50Hz one (assuming it uses an AC spindle motor). Do note that it isn't just the line voltage that matters, but rather the frequency. North America is 60 Hz, but Europe and much of the rest of the world is 50 Hz.
There are inexpensive 24V/5V power supplies offered. I use one with my paper tape reader and purchased it new about a year ago--I think I paid about $15 for it.
I hear talk about 110V (should be 120V for North America, but 100-110V for Japan). But if you're somewhere else in the world, your drive will most likely be a 220V 50Hz one (assuming it uses an AC spindle motor). Do note that it isn't just the line voltage that matters, but rather the frequency. North America is 60 Hz, but Europe and much of the rest of the world is 50 Hz.
There are inexpensive 24V/5V power supplies offered. I use one with my paper tape reader and purchased it new about a year ago--I think I paid about $15 for it.
The drive says 115v at 60hz, I am in North America. I've used other appliances and things listed as 115v, sold here in the US and work just fine and i would assume they are meant to be connected to 120v but need minimum 115v. I don't know about 110v i think i picked that up from reading the other response, I'm not an electrician maybe voltages do dip down to 110v in the US.
Chuck(G)
25k Member
Those voltage ratings are nominal. 110V used to be the nameplate standard back in the 1950s; it then moved to 115V, then 117V, now is 120V. The receptacle at my desk here currently measures 126V.
It's worthwhile to update your profile to show your general location.
Otherwise, you could be writing from Kwajalein.
It's worthwhile to update your profile to show your general location.
Otherwise, you could be writing from Kwajalein.
bzotto
Experienced Member
You are set up for success! (The AC connection truly is not a big deal to do— it’s the same three wires from the wall directly to the drive, but if you get to the point where you have DC and data sorted but are still feeling iffy on the AC, send me a DM, I can help you.)
wperko
Experienced Member
- Joined
- Jul 4, 2007
- Messages
- 407
Hi,
IF people are interested, I can design some vector sketches for laser cutting, or CNC milling wood or sheet metal cabinets for drives and other vintage computer systems ... That is stuff from about 1970 to 1980. There's already too much PC stuff still floating around.
Here you can see some of the stuff I'm working on now:
.
Rocker Switch Power Socket Inlet Module Plug and 4.9ft Cord with 10A... | eBay
Rocker Switch Power Socket Inlet Module Plug and 4.9ft Power Cord with 10A Fuse Switch 10A 250V 3 Pin IEC320 C14. Equipped with two fuses: one for use and the other for backup, fuse current 10A. Gauge: 16.0.
www.ebay.com
I dont know if that link will show up, but something like this looks easy enough, I would have a separate rocker for the drive motor but i dont think thats a big deal. Its an inlet with a rocker / fuse and 3 connections, i have to look it over but it seems it could hook directly to the drive motor with the right AMP connector on the end of those wires.
edit: I will have to give this some more thought, im not thrilled with the idea of 2 power cords, and what if 1 fuse blows and not the other, could that damage the drive somehow not so sure.
Last edited:
I wonder if i can pickup and old computer tower from the side of the road or something and gut it, since it already would have spot for a fan and an power supply, Just have to find one big enough to fit the drive on its side, then i could always have a front panel made if it was too ugly.
Chuck(G)
25k Member
Cabinet doesn't have to be anything special. You could build one of plywood if you're handy.
yea i decided on just a getting a rackmount, its got more room than i need but at least it will be out of the way, I will just put it under my pdp11. I did send that fdcc guy an email so i still need to sort out the 24v 5v thing, maybe ill call him after the holidays or find another solution. This is really not urgent more of a hobby project
Hugo Holden
Veteran Member
Hmmm..... I don't know.
I think the enclosure for a disk drive should be something special (I'm such a romantic).
Ideally it is metal, not wood, and is has an IEC line connector and powered via a standard 3 wire line cord. Inside the drive housing should be the power supply, SMPS types from MeanWell are good.
The drive housing should also be connected to the Earth of the dwelling. (sure you could always use some double insulated cheapo computer psu's and power it with DC externally, with no earthing but is all a little messy).
One great thing is that the Takachi company, in Japan, sell beautiful extruded aluminium housings. Not only that, lets say you have some oddball size requirement, they will make exactly what you want. The finish on their housings is tough & scratch resistant and and the off white matches the color of vintage computer gear, and the engineering quality is beyond wonderful.
Contact Jelvin in their overseas mail order Dept, he will help you get exactly what you need.
Here are a few projects where I used their housings:
www.worldphaco.com/uploads/EXTERNAL_DUAL_5.pdf
www.worldphaco.com/uploads/THE_AMBER_COMPUTER_VDU_PROJECT.pdf
www.worldphaco.com/uploads/VOTRAX_TYPE___TALK_MEETS_HERO_JR.pdf
I think the enclosure for a disk drive should be something special (I'm such a romantic).
Ideally it is metal, not wood, and is has an IEC line connector and powered via a standard 3 wire line cord. Inside the drive housing should be the power supply, SMPS types from MeanWell are good.
The drive housing should also be connected to the Earth of the dwelling. (sure you could always use some double insulated cheapo computer psu's and power it with DC externally, with no earthing but is all a little messy).
One great thing is that the Takachi company, in Japan, sell beautiful extruded aluminium housings. Not only that, lets say you have some oddball size requirement, they will make exactly what you want. The finish on their housings is tough & scratch resistant and and the off white matches the color of vintage computer gear, and the engineering quality is beyond wonderful.
Contact Jelvin in their overseas mail order Dept, he will help you get exactly what you need.
Here are a few projects where I used their housings:
www.worldphaco.com/uploads/EXTERNAL_DUAL_5.pdf
www.worldphaco.com/uploads/THE_AMBER_COMPUTER_VDU_PROJECT.pdf
www.worldphaco.com/uploads/VOTRAX_TYPE___TALK_MEETS_HERO_JR.pdf
Nice job, your drive enclosure is exactly what i had in mind. I have already committed to a rackmount, but makes me definitely think twice. To make things look a bit cleaner i might put in a 5.25 drive next to it that way i have both floppy sizes available, and use some kind of custom cut front panel.