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Toshiba T1000XE

No, not *that* T, a T1000 XE or T1200 XE, whatever I can find first, to refresh my memory on how the internal HD is connected. It's mine, and I do plan on putting her together when I'm done.
patscc
 
Update on the 'funny little popup'
It will actually let you change the amount of charge in the battery.
Cool, huh, and all this time, I thought I had to rebuild battery packs that have failed. But now, thanks to the handy T-popup, I can just dial-in the charge I think the pack ought to have!!! Progres...
patscc
 
Sinisterdragon wrote:
I have taken the box apart and Yep, the conector for the Hdd is hard wired to the mother board... Inside the hard drive box itself it also seems to be hard wired.. and removing the Hdd doesn't help cause the machine wont even start up if I do that...
Click to expand...

Okay, now I'm confused. From what you said, it seems as if you have the ability to disconnect the HD after all( 'removing the Hdd doesn't help' ) ?
If you can disconnect it, disconnect it, boot. and wait. after 10 minutes or so, you should get "Please insert system disk". Try that.

The external floppy, are you using the one that hooks to the special floppy port, or the one that hooks to the printer/floppy (25-pin D-sub) connector ?

patscc
 
You have to have one of these machines in front of you to understand what I mean, I think. The Hdd is encased inside a little box. This little box has a conector on the outside that conects directly into the Hdd conector that is hard wired to the T1000XE motherboard. If you open up this Hdd box you see that the conector is hard wired to the Hdd via a flexable PCB.. The T1000XE will not even start up without the Hdd box being conected to the system.. There seems to be no way to disassemble the Hdd box further, and no point as everything seems to be hard wired anyway....

I have one of the little Fdds that conect the the actual Fdd port on the side of the T1000XE.. not the parrallel port..

Plus now I'm looking at the battery volage and gues what?? I would say the batteries are pretty stuffed as well... The little light on the machine says they are charged, until you disconect the power then it says they are not... According to the writing on the outside of the case the battery voltage should be 7.2V... I read it as 6.4V, quite a bit less... Any hint on how to open up the battery case so I can replace the batteries with some new ones would be apreciated...


:twisted:
 
I never tried to take the battery apart. It looked like it had some kind of single cell setup, so I didn't even try. But if I WERE to break it open I would have had to cut it.

Also, I was able to disassemble to box totally and get the hdd out totally. The wires aren't hardwired to it, you just have to be VERY careful when you take it off the drive. IIRC, the flat cable is lightly soldered to a small piece of silicone board that attaches to the drive. That is if I remember correctly. I got rid of mine cause it had a bad power board inside, and when it was on a ps it would flicker on and off intermittently. I made a battery for it from dustbuster battieries but otherwise that was the end of my experimenting. I'd love to get another though...
 
I'm glad someone remembered the HD comes out, and how. I thought I was going nuts, and not finding mine wasn't helping any.
The battery pack should have 6 1.2 cells inside, they're oriented horizontally, three on each side, and they're the "fat" AA cells, I can't remember what they're called, they sort of look like a AA on stearoids. You should be bacle to see the seams, and with a thin stiff blade, and lot's of time and care, pry it open( you might sort of wreck it). Some of them have glue or stick-tape that glues the cells to case and lid, sort of like old HP battery packs.

patscc
 
Got the battery pack open, once I found the right spot and method it was actually surprisingly easy... I see what you mean about "fat" AA cells... Good decription.. :lol: ... I have four cells at 1.2V, and 2 Cells faulty, one at .6V and one at Zero... There are two components inside the box, One has IP305AV 70C on it, Thermal fuse??? not sure what the other component is, could be anything, about the only thing I can read is 250Y~ but I assume it is a fusable link?? I have seen these some where before, but can't remember where off hand... Any idea??

In any case might look for a replacement set and see how much in total... not sure I want to spend too much though unless I can resolve the bootup problem...

I'll have to look at the batteries for the T1600 as well, and see if they are O.K....

:twisted:
 
If they are the same batteries that I have, I know where you can get cells for that pack.

http://www.sciplus.com/category.cfm?subsection=13&category=134

If that doesn't take you right to the grab bag, just do a search for "grab bag" and it'll come up. Those are the same dustbuster batteries that are used (I call em that, heh heh). Larger around AA sized, but the same length, about.

Now I kinda wish I hadn't gotten rid of mine. Didn't even think it.
 
Thanks for the link, I'll see how much they are in Australia first, at least I know somewhere I might be able to get something similar though.. Thats Allways good...

:twisted:
 
Huh... $15.00 Aus for ONE 1.2V NiMH Bat of the apropriate size.. thats $90 for a complete set for the computer.... Unless I can get the Boot up problem sorted it looks like this computer will just go into storage... At least I have a T100XE I supose...

:twisted:
 
patscc said:
You don't have to use the exact size, by the way. Just put in AA-nicad's or something reasonably close. So you won't get the specified runtime off batteries. Who cares ?

patscc
Click to expand...

I tried that with some NiMH cells, the ones I used were a little smaller. I expected a somewhat shorter running time, but now I'm only getting 15 minutes to a charge I was hoping for a couple hours).

--T
 
Are you replacing NiCad's with NiMh ? That's a no-no. The NiMh hava a different charge/discharge curve.

The T1000ZE bat packs, I think, are rated at 7.2 volt, 1700 mAh, which means it uses 6 1.2volt, 1700 mAh cells.

You can get 4/5 AA NiCad's rated at 1200 mAh reasonably cheap, and that should( assuming the cells are good ) give you 1200/1700 * 100%, or around 70% of rated run-time. But that's if you're replacing NiCad with NiCad. If switch families, all bet's are off.

The generic AA NiCad is usually rated at around 600mAh, and using those, of course, would only give you 600/1700 * 100%, or around 35% percent of rated capacity.

patscc
 
No, replaced NiMH with same, just physically smaller cells. Same voltage, but slightly lower amperage. IIRC about 1.7 mAh vs. 2.0. I thought they might not be taking a full charge, but testing them shows the right voltage.

--T
 
Odd. If they're NiMH, is the pack a 'smart' pack ? If it's a smart pack, the controller might be flagging it as 'empty' before it's really empty, since the discharge curve is going to be different for the 1700 mAh vs. 2000 mAh cells.

I ran into the opposite problem once, I replaces the NiMH in a Powerbook, I think it was a 540C, and I splurged and got higher-capacity ones, figureing I might as well soup it up, and didn't get any noticable improvement, so I went ahead an blamed the chip in the smart pack and called it a day.

patscc
 
I just assumed the Batteries in the T1000XE where NiMh. How long have NiMh been around??? If the cells are NiCad that would be HEAPS cheaper from what I have seen... How can I be sure of what ios in the system???

:twisted:
 
Look at the pack closely. There might be a recycling sticker on it that would tell you. Or, google up the original Toshiba part number for it.
They're NiCad on a T1000, T1100+ , T1200EX, T1600, and that's all I can get my hands on at the moment, so I'd bet the 1200XE is NiCad as well.

That, and the Toshiba 1000XE spec sheet states it's a NiCad pack. If you PM me with an email, I'll send you the PDF.

patscc
 
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